Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Christmas Gremlins

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    333

    Exclamation Christmas Gremlins

    This is a new one for me. I've been searching for a hint since last night w/o any real luck. Soooo...go to the Gurus and see if anyone has had this happen or what the fix might be. I'm a non-warranty so repairs are done at casa Bernie's 3 car work shop.

    Last evening while in the midst of a 2.5hr carve, the power serged, tripping the main breaker. Both thing 1 & 2 went dark. I flipped both off, unplugged, and slipped the cards. Then went and reset the breaker. Thing 2 responded w/o a hitch. Back on task with a bit of air carve to catch up. Beauty.

    Thing 1 on the other hand did not return from the dark side.
    First off, when I plugged it in,(W/ the switch off) it powered on. No response from the flipping the switch on/off. just stayed powered on.
    Restarted the project, it measured the board fine...
    Then, there was no response from the cut motor during bit check. Ya know when the motor spins a few seconds before it goes in search of the plate?
    I stopped it right away. Rechecked the motor and flex connections, and tried again. same results. Pulled the bottom plate and checked the main/cut motor/switch connections. All looked OK and killed power when disconnected. Put things back together, but could get no response from the cut motor at all. Did a sensor check at the #7 option. Got the 1-2-3 reading by twisting the flex by hand. Started to get a mite frustrated, went and sanded a few sleds. But returning and repeating the steps above could not get a pulse. So maybe I cooked the motor, Pulled out the spare (Thanks Al for the good habits at the start ) swapped em out....same-E-same.

    And here I am. I'm thinking the power flux may have fried the power switch and/or one of the control boards. But as previously noted. I'm pretty good at fighting fires, I suck with mechanical/electrical. Any ideas or experiences?

    Side Note: Every body on this forum are some of the best people it is my fortunate opportunity to associate with. I have made some very close relationships w/ most of you (even from the shadows where I lurk) but I truly enjoy the interactions more then I can say. So do a ol' smoke eater a favor. Have a safe, healthy, and HAPPY Holiday season. Make this one the BEST Ever!!! Wear those dust masks, use that DC, monitor that gizmo, and have fun making things that will last a life time.

    Looking forward to any advice.
    Bernie :^)

    Wisdom has no value unless it's shared.
    Ver. 177 in Test mode Ver.134 in reserve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    I would swap the X control Board. There is a Q1 on the board and most likely since it was ON when power surged, it might be smoked....

    There are 2 other 6 pin components. U1 is a Optical component where the computer lights the LED inside the chip and the light turns on a Triac that acts as a isolator between the Computer and the 115 volts. I think this component is the Cut Motor Variable Speed component. When you hear it change speeds.

    The U3 is another Optical Coupler that uses a signal from the computer to light the LED light inside the component and turns on a transistor switch inside the chip that then turns on the big Q1 Transistor that is the high current component. Q1 is basically a solid state relay or switch.

    Q1 is a on off switch for the Cut Motor. Disregard the C1 broken, that a a result of the QC vibration.

    So the X Termination board has 3 components that can zap. Plus there is U2 that is a full wave rectifier. I know it turns AC into DC and I believe is used to supply the low voltage control voltage to turn on the Q1 through U3.

    The Cut motor power comes into the X Termination at J3 and one lead goes to one lead of J4 the jack feeding the cut motor. The Other lead goes to the Q1 switch and from the Q1 it goes to the second lead of the J4 jack to power the Cut Motor.

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC07811_WEB.jpg   DSC07799_WEB.jpg  
    Last edited by Digitalwoodshop; 11-22-2009 at 01:27 PM.
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  3. #3

    Default

    First off, when I plugged it in,(W/ the switch off) it powered on. No response from the flipping the switch on/off. just stayed powered on.
    check the common and hot wires on the on off power switch first. The wires can be loose and cause a short. At times i would hear a strange crackling sound of the loose wires until i fixed it.

    LG
    Last edited by liquidguitars; 11-22-2009 at 01:33 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Quote:
    First off, when I plugged it in,(W/ the switch off) it powered on. No response from the flipping the switch on/off. just stayed powered on.


    Do you mean that when you plug in the unit the LCD turns on or the Cut Motor spins up?

    Might have the wires touching together at the switch.

    AL
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC03670_WEB.jpg  
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  5. #5

    Default

    Might have the wires touching together at the switch.
    my thinking two

    LG

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    333

    Default Do you mean that when you plug in the unit the LCD turns on or the Cut Motor spins up

    When it gets plugged in, the LED lights up. Not response Off/On at the switch. It will load a project. Measure the board. Ask for the correct bit. Won't spin up prior to bit plate check. That's as far as I've let it run, afraid it will drag the bit in the "Y" and snap it. Have to unplug to reset it back to project screen. It does ask "Enter to continue. Stop to abort." Aborts back to start position.

    Checked the wire connections at the switch. When either is unplugged, the LED goes dark. Ensured the connections had good separation. Followed the hot wire to main board. w/ same effect. Followed to X Terminator? (Good Get Al. Hoped you would have some experience w/ this. ) Same thing. That's as far as I wanted to go, not knowing any thing about live power feed. Hell I might do something that makes thing 1 run back wards. Ok i guess if I use Oriental script.
    Bernie :^)

    Wisdom has no value unless it's shared.
    Ver. 177 in Test mode Ver.134 in reserve

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Sounds like 2 problems.....

    The on off switch is shorted as when you unplug on lead from the switch the unit shuts off. Plug it back in and it will stay on.

    The fact that the Cut Motor does not spin up could be the RIGHT cover switch?

    OR the X Termination Board....

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    333

    Thumbs up

    Thanks Al, thought you would have a work around. Will order a x trem board and a on/off switch. Start by replaceing the switch, then the board. Will report progress.
    Bernie :^)

    Wisdom has no value unless it's shared.
    Ver. 177 in Test mode Ver.134 in reserve

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Make sure you check the right switch, if you hear a click 9.99 times out of 10 it is good. Now the left switch is a light duty switch and it's 50 50 if that one clicks and is still good... But we know the left switch is fine...

    You have 2 machines? Swap between the machines..?

    You already swapped the Cut Motor correct?

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

    Follow ME on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Accoun...50019051727074

    www.PoconoDigitalWoodshop.com

    www.AccountabilityTag.com


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Yes sir, Spare C motor in. Sensor check showing 1-2-3 w/ hand twist of flex. New motor switch in place. Strong click-click check.
    Bernie :^)

    Wisdom has no value unless it's shared.
    Ver. 177 in Test mode Ver.134 in reserve

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •