close cover

[olkarch]

Gentlemen -- I received the shipment from LHR today, but I can not imagine it will in any way cure my problem. What I received was a Z-truck assembly, which apparently has nothing to do with upgrading to revision B as hoped. This is purely mechanical and my problem is electronic. Is the Z-truck itself any different between the two revisions, or is it an expensive spare I don't need?

Olin

[olkarch]

More in the saga of "Please Close Cover."

I installed the Z-truck today. It didn't fix the problem, but at least I feel like I am upgrading the machine.

Three calls to LHR today. Phone bill will not be good. Now they are sending a Z-motor bundle and a microswitch cable assembly.

Apparently there was indeed a magnet inside the old Z-truck, which could spin off. They have changed the truck, and it is now without a circuit board, and the probe will plug into the mystery connector at the left of the cover. At least the probe jumper cable is free.

The machine is still not up and running, but I think I'm making progress, and I am delighted that I am learning so much about the machine, and you guys have all been a big help.

Olin

[Digitalwoodshop]

Sorry to hear about your problems.... Yes, you are right.... With the old Z before the new Z Bundle of the Z Motor, Cable and Circuit Board there was a magnet in the Z Truck... It was like the magnet in the cut motor and the spinning shaft triggered pulses... But I thought that was done away with long long ago.... That is why I did not think if it...

If they would have sold you the Z Bundle that would have made the Z Truck magnet and circuit board useless and it does not plug in on the new Z bundle.

As for the old Z Truck, it can still be used at a later time so keep it. Also keep the old Z Motor as a year from now when the Y Gear Box wears out you can remove the gear box from the old Z motor and use it...

So you are making progress.... If the Z Bundle does not fix it let me know.


AL

[olkarch]

Well I have replaced the Z truck, Z motor, Z wiring, and cover switch harness, and the machine is working. I don't know where the problem was, but presumably a cracked wire or circuit somewhere, which probably broke connection whenever the motor vibrated enough.

I'm glad at least to have everything Z upgraded. Now I have another problem but I'll post in a new thread.

Olin

[911guy]

Can someone here tell me what exactly is the "Switch" people are refering to? Are we refering to the close cover switch on the right and left side of the see-through cover for the "Please Close Cover" error?

Thanks!

[Digitalwoodshop]

At the hinge point of the clear plastic cover are 2 switches.

The left switch near the keypad side of the machine activated by a tab on the clear cover tells the computer if the cover is open. It stops the machine if you open it while it is cutting. This is the switch that is the problem if you get a close cover error.

The right side switch is the Cut Motor Safety Switch and when the cover is open prevents the Cut Motor from starting and cutting your fingers off.

The computer does not monitor the right switch. A Bad switch will not let the cut motor run and the machine will try to cut without the motor running, with the cover closed. It will stall.

Hope that helps.... Read Tips and Tricks for more good info.

AL

Found a picture of the underside of the top cover. You can see the micro switch on the lower right side of the photo and the wires with the white plastic plug on the end. When you plug the white plug into the back of the machine, it can fit both ways even though it has guides molded into the plug and jack. White wire toward the Center is the key for the New Z Bundle setup.

[fwharris]

Can someone here tell me what exactly is the "Switch" people are refering to? Are we refering to the close cover switch on the right and left side of the see-through cover for the "Please Close Cover" error?

Thanks!

Craig,

Those are the switches!! The one closest to the keyboard end of the machine is the one most often mentioned!

[911guy]

Ok, thanks guys.

Yes, I am to having the problems and need to contact LHR tomorrow. I apparently broke off the plastic piece on the clear cover that engages the switch on the left side (toward the keyboard).

I've read the multiple posts after searching for a "quick fix" till I can get the new cover. I also need to get the wiring harness as I've already tried to hardwire it to no avail. Ran a sensor check still showing "open". I am no electrician....any idea on what to search for for the "unsafe" hardwire quickfix? I think I guessed right that no one will explain it on the forum for liability reasons...I am availabile offline

[Digitalwoodshop]

Since the plastic tab is broken you can do the sensor test and with the cover UP use something small the "Gently" push the switch in to check it's electrical function.

The most common way to damage the switch and the cover tab is when you remove the whole top of the machine and move it around letting the weight of the clear lid rest on the switches. There in NO mechanical stop on the cover.... "ALWAYS SUPPORT THE COVER TO PREVENT SWITCH DAMAGE"

AL

[bridgemanbunch]

I just joined the Carvewright family.. Purchased it July 13th, received it around the 20th of July...
Have performed two test carves... First full of newbie mistakes... LOL!! But I love it... Second test.................. Well it is still in the machine. You guessed it Close Cover Error.
I spent two days researching and reading every single post on this and trouble shooting everything. Finally called LHR, who assisted me in testing a few things that I had allready tested.
The end result is that the cover switch is bad and they are sending out a replacement to me as I type. So even though it is a BRAND NEW machine with less than 10 hours carve time and it irritates the @#$@#$ out of me that I should have a problem allready, I am happy with the way LHR handled the issue.

For a close cover error the items they had me check specifically were as follows:

The first thing they had me check was the connection to the circuit board.
Slid assembly to the far right, followed wires with a white wire, disconnected, dusted, cleaned, inspected, etc... then did the same with the connection on the circuit board, reconnected the wiring to circuit board, power up machine and perform test. Main menu choose option zero, then option seven (this will give you the current cover switch reading... If it works correctly YEAH!!!
Of course mine did not and on to the next test I went....
Main menu choose option zero, then option seven (this will give you the current cover switch reading... I know I'm repeating myself...
Removed the close cover switch (switch closest to keypad),
use paperclip to touch metal and depress button, see if switch reacts.
Mine did then didn't... It obviously has issues with working overtime... LOL!

I realize this information might not help anyone but I thought I would pass on the experience just in case...