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Thread: Carving depth problems

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
    Posts
    3,967

    Default Too deep

    Quote Originally Posted by WorkedWood View Post
    I am having a similar problem with the project attached. I’ve checked the depths thinking I typed .75 instead of.075, changed it to the current depth of .125. I load the board onto the sled and the carving bit cut right through the board and carves the pattern into the sled at the correct depth??? Now here is the kicker. If I hide the text (centerline with 60 bit) the pattern carves correctly. I thought I had the problem fixed and reloaded the finished project with everything and it cut right through again. I’m thinking that it is a problem between the difference of the carving bit and the 60 bit.
    Your design shows that you are placing a 3/4" board on your sled. My bet is that you really have thin stock, and are making cards or something.

    If this is true (stock is thin), then you need to reflect the actual thickness in your design (Board thickness). Designer will prompt you to verify that measurement. Just press "Proceed".
    When you run your project, you will be asked if use want to use the "Project" thickness or the combined thickness of the stock & the sled.
    AskBud
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  2. #12

    Default Board settings are correct

    Bud,

    The board is 3/4" thick on top of a 3/4" sled. If I carve the items individually (text hidden, carve pattern) everything works correctly. It seems to be an issue with the two bits and the calibrating between them.


    Quote Originally Posted by AskBud View Post
    Your design shows that you are placing a 3/4" board on your sled. My bet is that you really have thin stock, and are making cards or something.

    If this is true (stock is thin), then you need to reflect the actual thickness in your design (Board thickness). Designer will prompt you to verify that measurement. Just press "Proceed".
    When you run your project, you will be asked if use want to use the "Project" thickness or the combined thickness of the stock & the sled.
    AskBud

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Overland Park, Ks
    Posts
    12

    Unhappy Ah Ha!

    Thanks for all the suggestions, I think I have discovered the problem. Facing the z-truck, the lower left guide is loose. The screw will not tighten or come out, just turns. When turning the guide moves in and out like the screw could be bent. This is what has been letting the carving bit move out of position and causing the errors in the project. I'll have to wait until Tuesday to contact CR about this issue since it is still in warranty.

    Thanks again for all the help
    Gene Adams
    Overland Park, Ks

    "For he who serves his fellows, is of all his fellows, greatest"

    E Urner Goodman

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    SouthWest Ohio
    Posts
    2,346

    Default Screw is OK

    geno147,

    The screw-hole is not in the center of that bearing because this is how the bearing is positioned tight against the rails AND allows you to remove the Z truck (when turned so the gap is the greatest).
    The screw probably has lock-tight on it, you can hold the screw with a screwdriver and turn the bearing-center with a wrench to tighten in.
    Check Al's super-duper bearing instructions.

    Edit: Oops, wrong side!
    Last edited by DocWheeler; 05-23-2009 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Error
    Ken,
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE PA USA
    Posts
    9,984

    Default

    Thanks Ken,

    Geno,

    If you search I have posted a bunch of pictures and procedures to tighten the screws.

    If the bottom left bearing is loose, that one came loose on me the first time. That one is drilled in the center. The ones on the right are off set drilled.

    You must remove the Z Truck to fix this problem to get to the back of the bearing nut.

    AL
    Favorite Saying.... "It's ALL About the Brass Roller"..... And "Use MASKING TAPE" for board skipping in the X or breaking bits.

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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Overland Park, Ks
    Posts
    12

    Default Thnx

    It would be nice if we had R&I instructions for all these things. I got that tightened up and adjusted the right side which seems to have taken care of the head looseness. Project seems to be cutting correctly. Thanks again for all the help.
    Gene Adams
    Overland Park, Ks

    "For he who serves his fellows, is of all his fellows, greatest"

    E Urner Goodman

  7. #17

    Default

    Gene

    LHR has all of them as well as some of the members here. LHR will email them to you when you order replacement parts.If you need one for a certain area you can send me a PM along with a email address and I will send it to you if I have it.

    Do you need the one for the Z trunk replacement? I have this one along with most others.

    Remember when you tighten the adjusting screws on the right you need to tighten them up just so the bearing is to the point where you can not turn it by hand and back-off slightly. If I remember right

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