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Thread: Lincoln Cent Coin Bank

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Northern Colorado
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    7,962

    Default

    Michael,

    Yes those are a few good ideas for the coins. I have made and sold several clocks with just the obverse side of the coin patterns. I believe your coin bank would be even more enhanced if it had the reverse side of the Lincoln cent or any of the other coins as well. Of course that is just my opinion from a coin collectors point of view.

    Lots of possibilities out there for our creative minds to work on. Even the proverbial wooden nickel!!!
    RingNeckBlues
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Onset, Ma
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    1,249

    Default width of boards

    Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
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    8,123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by b.sumner47 View Post
    Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry
    Hello,

    You'll need to reset (reduce) the board width in the mpc's or use a wider sled to place the board, as you mentioned. If you choose to reduce the mpc board width to match your stock, watch closely that elements on the board don't "shift" adversely. If they do, then "UNDO" your changes and open the carving list and check every item for any centering applied. When/if you find any centering assignment, remove the centering (and any other positioning attachment that might be present). Then try resetting the board width for the mpc again and it should now work alright.

    My last batch of 1x12 wood from Lowes was also not as wide as it was just a month ago. Typically, it was always just over 11.25" in width (something like 11.3"). At that width, if an mpc's board width was set at 11.25", all was well, and no scaling prompt would occur. Now however, with the board widths "shrinking" apparently at the big box stores (shame on them!), more attention has to be paid before uploading an mpc to the memory card. Measure your actual board width and set the mpc to either that width or a little less, to avoid getting the scaling prompt. Scaling can really mess with a project and you want to avoid that at all cost.

    The last two projects I designed, I set the 1x12 board width in the mpc at 11.2" just to be on the safe side (actually, the board width comes out at 11.203 for some reason, even though I type 11.2, Designer "makes it" 11.203 - odd). The instructions still call for a board width of 11.25", but by me setting the board width a little less than that, I hope to help folks avoid scaling issues on their end when they run a project, in case the stock they are using is not the normal 11.25" which has been the standard for a long, long time for * x 12 stock.

    Keep in mind that if you ever see a scaling prompt, that is a warning that something is wrong. Either the board is too big or too small. Too big is ok, since you will have an option to "Keep Original Size" and the project will run as expected. Too small, means you'll have to change to another board that's big enough, or, possibly go back to Designer and reduce the board width to match your actual stock, or use a sled that will force the machine "see" a wider board.

    I may "err" on even smaller board width settings in my projects just to stave off any future issues if the boards we buy continue to shrink further!
    Last edited by mtylerfl; 04-30-2009 at 12:56 PM.
    Michael T
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
    Posts
    3,967

    Default Boards

    Quote Originally Posted by b.sumner47 View Post
    Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry
    As long as you are not making and "Edge" cuts, I would opt for a sled.
    I often use a large sled and just "Center" the project board.
    AskBud
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AskBud View Post
    As long as you are not making and "Edge" cuts, I would opt for a sled.
    I often use a large sled and just "Center" the project board.
    AskBud

    That'll work - and save some wood to boot.
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wylie, Tx
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    1,680

    Default Hey Bud

    Quote Originally Posted by AskBud View Post
    As long as you are not making and "Edge" cuts, I would opt for a sled.
    I often use a large sled and just "Center" the project board.
    AskBud
    So what would you suggest is a "standard" size sled? I haven't made one yet, but going to this weekend. I don't make too much stuff yet as I'm still learning (ie.. stained glass plaques, small signs, etc). Just wondering what size I should make first. I've got quite a bit of scraps now with having to add 7" to my projects. I heard mention to add just 4" to one end and run the project that way (I guess that means "not centered" on project)? Just trying to be a little more efficient with my boards.
    JerryB:.

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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Indian Lake, Ohio - Rts 33 & 235
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    3,967

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chebytrk View Post
    So what would you suggest is a "standard" size sled? I haven't made one yet, but going to this weekend. I don't make too much stuff yet as I'm still learning (ie.. stained glass plaques, small signs, etc). Just wondering what size I should make first. I've got quite a bit of scraps now with having to add 7" to my projects. I heard mention to add just 4" to one end and run the project that way (I guess that means "not centered" on project)? Just trying to be a little more efficient with my boards.
    My choice, after some testing & thinking is to have several sleds.

    My 2 sided carvings using 1.5" stock is a sled with a "lip" on the bottom to suspend the stock. This sled can be widened to whatever I need, however, it is set for a 7" wide/high board (unless I change out my end pieces).
    See my AVI on "2 sided Cow"
    I have, also, made a set of interlocking risers .75" thick so I can use the same sled for standard .75" stock (.75+.75=1.5").

    I also have used some very good "Hardboard" 48" long and 14" wide/high.
    I attach 1" wide rails to one side/surface of this sled using .75" stock and 3.5", or larger, end pieces.
    I use scrap wood to lock/secure the project board to the center of the sled.
    Next:
    I use the back side of this sled for some special sign stock .5" thick. I have milled out a .5" area for this stock to sit in. I could, also add rails of any thickness to this side of the sled should I have a project that requires a different thickness board.


    I will see about bringing my camera to this location and taking some photo's.
    AskBud
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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    241

    Default Put

    Quote Originally Posted by b.sumner47 View Post
    Hi Michael, I've got a question about the widths of boards that we get from HD and Lowes,the 8in.board are not the 7.250 as before, they now measure at 07.190 I could use a sled or hope I could reset board width to 0.710,no scaling.would this be OK ? Thank Capt Barry
    a piece of masking tape on the opposite board side from the brass roller on top and let it stick over by about 1/4 inch. This will only work if you don't do edge carving. When the CW measures the board width it comes out fine. No new board, sled or scale to size. Been doing this for a few projects but haven't tried it on anything over 1/8 inch undersized. Now that I keep an inventory by actual board sizes LxWxT I change the board width in Designer to 5, 7, 11 inches no decimals before loading it on the card.
    Eva

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    SouthWest Ohio
    Posts
    2,346

    Default Adding Width to your board for carving

    Barry,

    I can't believe that only ChrisAlb and I are the only ones that regularly use "Rails" only to carve. This was a work-around for cutouts on older software, but it still works great and solves several problems including the one asked here.

    There is no need for a carrier board unless you want one. Just make the rails 7" longer than the design in Designer and tell the machine to center the carve. Also, no need for wood fillers on the ends, you just need something for the sensor to see. Each of the examples below have tape across the ends.

    The horse was 1" thick with 1" X 1" rails and the other had 3/4" rails. I had stock to screw the rails on the horse one, but just attached the rails with tape on the other one, both methods work well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Small P12 Rails.jpg   HorseRails.jpg  
    Ken,
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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brunswick, GA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hexe SA View Post
    a piece of masking tape on the opposite board side from the brass roller on top and let it stick over by about 1/4 inch. This will only work if you don't do edge carving. When the CW measures the board width it comes out fine. No new board, sled or scale to size. Been doing this for a few projects but haven't tried it on anything over 1/8 inch undersized. Now that I keep an inventory by actual board sizes LxWxT I change the board width in Designer to 5, 7, 11 inches no decimals before loading it on the card.
    Eva
    Eva - Good tip - I'll have to try that myself!

    Ken - Good tip/reminder about rails also!
    Michael T
    Happy Carving!


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