Post Your Question Here

[zstat]

Are there and differences between the Compucarve and the Carvewright ? I am new to wood working and saw the Compucarve at Sears and was WOW... This could be fun... Is this to advanced for a true novice? and how tough is it to make your own designs? Thanks z

[Kenm810]

zstat,

Welcome to the forum
The CompuCarve and the CarveWright are the same Machine, Designed and Serviced by LHR in Texas.
CompuCarve is just the Sears Craftmans name on the CarveWright machine.
No real difference be twine them, both come with a 200 hour or 1 year warranty
(no Extended warranties at this time)



ps It's best to post Questions in the Users heading listed below
Your Questions will be noticed and answered quicker that way

[Artcarver]

i am really new to this and not sure what i am duing. I made a patter and i am trying to get rid of the square boarder how do i do this.

thanks

greg

I am new to this too and I think I am having the same problem? I get a concave border all around my patterns for portraits. Don't know how to delete this? Can anyone tell me what I need to do? I know there has to be a way because the portraits I have seen in the forum don't have this border. Thanks.

[Jeff_Birt]

You have to make the areas around your subject transparent in an photo editing program.

[marinan]

Were you able to re-create the molding you mentioned in your note to FAQ?
I am needing to make profile templates of stick molding. Any suggestions as to where to look?
thanks, marinan

[mmartin55]

I saw the carvewright at the KC Woodworking Show and think it may help me in my business. Here are my questions concerns.

1. I need to cut flat baltic birch plywood into shapes similar to the wooden dinosoar models with notches for joining to other parts.

2. Will the machine cut stock as thin as 1/16" or thinner?

3. Will this machine cut these flat parts efficiently form 14.5" cut stock say the full length of the sheet goods if I have good outfeed surface?

4. Can I join several sheets in laminations and cut multiple parts at the same time?

5. What is the smallest diameter of cutting bit I can use since I think this will determine the level of precision I can achieve in the notches?

6. What is the precision of the machine in thousandths?

7. What is the repeatability in thousandths if given by the manufacturer?

8. What would the cutter speed in inches or feet per minute be for 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" baltic plywood?

9. Will it cut 3/8" and 1/2" goods too?

10. Can I use the files I already have in Illustrator format and simply change the layout to 14.5 inches wide by whatever fits all of the same thickness parts?

Thanks for your help.

[hotpop]

I think I can answer most of your question.

1. I need to cut flat baltic birch plywood into shapes similar to the wooden dinosoar models with notches for joining to other parts.

No Problem.

2. Will the machine cut stock as thin as 1/16" or thinner?

Yes, but you will need to fasten the thin material to a backer board with double stick tape or hot melt so both boards move together. Minimum total thickness is 3/8". We call the backer board a skid.

3. Will this machine cut these flat parts efficiently form 14.5" cut stock say the full length of the sheet goods if I have good out feed surface?

Yes. You can go to 15" wide by removing the movable guide rail.

4. Can I join several sheets in laminations and cut multiple parts at the same time?

Yes.

5. What is the smallest diameter of cutting bit I can use since I think this will determine the level of precision I can achieve in the notches?

The machine comes with two bits, a 1/8" dia. cutting bit and a 1/16" bull nose carving bit. One of our fourm members offer smaller bits for sale.

6. What is the precision of the machine in thousandths?

I believe I read the machine is accurate to .005" someplace.

7. What is the repeatability in thousandths if given by the manufacturer?

Again I think is it .005"

8. What would the cutter speed in inches or feet per minute be for 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" baltic plywood?

The software controls the cutter and feed speeds there is no user interface necessary.

9. Will it cut 3/8" and 1/2" goods too?

Maximun cutting depth recomended is 3/4" due to the length of the flutes on the cutter. I cut 3/4" red oak all the time.

Your welcome

[Dan-Woodman]

If anyone is going to the kc show tommorrow,sunday, I'll be working at The Lee's Summit Woodworkers Guild booth from 10-12 am. see ya there Daniel

[mmartin55]

Thanks Hotpop

11. Will it cut birch ply like the Baltic variety fairly cleanly with a bit as small as 1/16 inch?

12. If I cut 3/8" or 1/2" stock I assume I need no backer or skid. Is this 3/8" minimum stock height due to the machine feeding the material from traction on the top side?

13. How is the stock propelled or conveyed?

14. Will in need to face-sand the surfaces to remove fuzz or will it be better to use a backer and a top peice always to get less tearout on the outer surfaces of the cut. (I guess that's subjective but what I am getting at is the cut quality going to be acceptable in aircraft wing ribs and wing tip bows of 9-20 inches in chord?)

You can view the prodouct I am proposing cutting in question at www.tmrcsailplanes.com. It is the TG-2 shown on the home page but will be four times larger with 20 foot wingspan.

15. Is there anyone in Kansas City that will cut the first one for me for hire so I can assess the quality and build before purchasing?

Tom

P.S. and thanks and thanks again!

[hotpop]

Tom

11. Will it cut birch ply like the Baltic variety fairly cleanly with a bit as small as 1/16 inch?

For your application I don't think you will have any problems. The edges may have a little feathering but is easily removed with a few swipes of sandpaper.

12. If I cut 3/8" or 1/2" stock I assume I need no backer or skid. Is this 3/8" minimum stock height due to the machine feeding the material from traction on the top side?

I'm not really sure. It might be because the machine rollers won't apply enough pressure on the work piece.

13. How is the stock propelled or conveyed?

There are two sandpaper covered drums on which the work piece lays on. Above the piece are two pressure rollers that hold the piece against sandpaper. The sandpaper rollers are what control the "X" axis. There is a space between the two sandpaper rollers that allow the cutter to travel on the "Y" and "Z" axis with out interference. Dpwnload the "Exploded View Parts " from the CW home page under Support/Downloads.

14. Will in need to face-sand the surfaces to remove fuzz or will it be better to use a backer and a top peice always to get less tearout on the outer surfaces of the cut. (I guess that's subjective but what I am getting at is the cut quality going to be acceptable in aircraft wing ribs and wing tip bows of 9-20 inches in chord?)

You don't need a top board.

You can view the prodouct I am proposing cutting in question at www.tmrcsailplanes.com. It is the TG-2 shown on the home page but will be four times larger with 20 foot wingspan.

Nice plane. I've been flying R/C sailplanes about ten years but got away ffrom it a few years ago when I moved away from my club. I think you'll like the CW for your application.

BTW, You can down the CW software from their site and try it. It's good for 30 days.

15. Is there anyone in Kansas City that will cut the first one for me for hire so I can assess the quality and build before purchasing

Probably but I don't know. Perhaps another forum member will respond.