Replacing the CW QC chuck with RC Eliminator Chuck

[Pratyeka]

Here is what I did to replace the original QC chuck with a modified RC Eliminator chuck.
The RC chuck use a screw and a wedge to hold the bits. It takes only 1/2 turn on the screw to unlock or lock the bit securely. 1/4" bit need a sleeve which you can order where they sell the RC chuck. I used the RC chuck for Bosch router. I do not know if the other type of RC chuck can be used.

The first step is to remove the QC chuck from the machine. A 7/8" flat wrench and a square bit is needed to unscrew the QC chuck. I use a 3" long .5" dia steel rod fitted in a 1/2" bit adaptor to heat up the QC chuck. Direct a short flame to the steel rod while slowly rotating the QC chuck by hand. Be patient. The heat will soften the threadlocker glue that prevents the chuck from loosening. Try to unscrew the chuck with the flat wrench and the square bit inserted in the same place the flex cable goes. Using a ratchet to hold the square bit, set the ratchet to unscrew (counter-clockwise looking from the top).

The RC Eliminator chuck has a nut and a conical shaft (much like a collet), so it won't fit into the machine's spindle as is. Saw off the nut with a hacksaw, careful not to scratch the shaft of the chuck. Once the nut is off, you have one solid piece of steel. Remove the locking screw and wedge.

With a lathe, remove just enough metal on the shaft to make it fit inside the CW spindle (around .536" dia, if I remember right, make sure you measure yours correctly). Precision is critical here, minimise runout as much as possible.

Make a bit stopper with a steel washer, same diameter as the RC shaft (see diagram) That will give a reference when you change bits for the machine to check the bit depth.

Once everything fits, apply metal epoxy and hold in place until glue sets. In my case, I arranged it so that I could monitor the runout as the glue was setting and make corrections.

That's it! Looks simple enough, but make sure you understand everything before proceeding. If you make a mistake or want to go back to the original QC chuck, you need to replace the spindle or the whole Z-truck assembly.

This mod has worked perfectly for me and at the time of this post I have 60hrs+ on it without a glitch. Bit changes take about 30 secs, without oiling nor cleaning.

here are the pics of the RC installed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/2305418...n/photostream/

Hope this helps.

[Ike]

Here is what I did to replace the original QC chuck with a modified RC Eliminator chuck.
The RC chuck use a screw and a wedge to hold the bits. It takes only 1/2 turn on the screw to unlock or lock the bit securely. 1/4" bit need a sleeve which you can order where they sell the RC chuck. I used the RC chuck for Bosch router. I do not know if the other type of RC chuck can be used.

The first step is to remove the QC chuck from the machine. A 7/8" flat wrench and a square bit is needed to unscrew the QC chuck. I use a 3" long .5" dia steel rod fitted in a 1/2" bit adaptor to heat up the QC chuck. Direct a short flame to the steel rod while slowly rotating the QC chuck by hand. Be patient. The heat will soften the threadlocker glue that prevents the chuck from loosening. Try to unscrew the chuck with the flat wrench and the square bit inserted in the same place the flex cable goes. Using a ratchet to hold the square bit, set the ratchet to unscrew (counter-clockwise looking from the top).

The RC Eliminator chuck has a nut and a conical shaft (much like a collet), so it won't fit into the machine's spindle as is. Saw off the nut with a hacksaw, careful not to scratch the shaft of the chuck. Once the nut is off, you have one solid piece of steel. Remove the locking screw and wedge.

With a lathe, remove just enough metal on the shaft to make it fit inside the CW spindle (around .536" dia, if I remember right, make sure you measure yours correctly). Precision is critical here, minimise runout as much as possible.

Make a bit stopper with a steel washer, same diameter as the RC shaft (see diagram) That will give a reference when you change bits for the machine to check the bit depth.

Once everything fits, apply metal epoxy and hold in place until glue sets. In my case, I arranged it so that I could monitor the runout as the glue was setting and make corrections.

That's it! Looks simple enough, but make sure you understand everything before proceeding. If you make a mistake or want to go back to the original QC chuck, you need to replace the spindle or the whole Z-truck assembly.

This mod has worked perfectly for me and at the time of this post I have 60hrs+ on it without a glitch. Bit changes take about 30 secs, without oiling nor cleaning.

Hope this helps.

Sounds great, but we all do not have a metal lathe! Maybe you should contact LHR with your new QC. Now do you install the bits without the adapters then tighten the bit with the allen screw?

I was wondering if a normal router chuck could be used? It takes only seconds to change a bit and you know it is secure!

Please show some photos of your RC in your CW

Ike

[liquidguitars]

Pratyeka thanks,

How far up is the washer in the shaft? I am wondering about the 1/4 ball's DOC placment to the truck. not sure if it realy matters or not..

Also running a 1/8" shank, do i just need the collets or is that to small of a bit.

LG

[Pratyeka]

Pratyeka thanks,

How far up is the washer in the shaft? I am wondering about the 1/4 ball's DOC placment to the truck. not sure if it realy matters or not..

Also running a 1/8" shank, do i just need the collets or is that to small of a bit.

LG

The washer is at the end of the RC shaft, about 1 inch from the bottom in this case. So any bit can only go up 1 inch into the RC chuck. Any bit diameter up to 1/2 inch can be fitted, as long as you have the adaptor sleeve. I won't call them collets because that is different. They are more like sleeve. Here is a pic:
http://www.thecraftsmangallery.com/M...PROD/RC/32-270
It would be possible to make a more precise sleeve and press-fit it on the bit
to achieve near 0 runout. I have .0045" runout on a 1/4" bit and .0015" on a 1/2" bit... very acceptable for wood, in my opinion...

I have not seen them selling a 1/8" adaptor sleeve though.

[Pratyeka]

Sounds great, but we all do not have a metal lathe! Maybe you should contact LHR with your new QC. Now do you install the bits without the adapters then tighten the bit with the allen screw?

I was wondering if a normal router chuck could be used? It takes only seconds to change a bit and you know it is secure!

Please show some photos of your RC in your CW

Ike

I understand and wish I could buy dozens of RC chuck and modify them and re-sell them... but the installation is tricky. One way would be to order dozens of Z-chuck and do the mod, then re-sell them. Thing is I did the mod at work and don't have the tools at home. The best way would be for those who make the RC chuck to adapt it so we could just screw it on the CW spindle, or for CW to provide an alternative option when we order the machine.

I have added a link for the photos of the RC chuck installed as requested in the first post.

[mgnagy]

Would you mind perhaps recording a video and uploading it to youtube so I can see this in action?

Too often things that appear too good to be true, are.

[Pratyeka]

Would you mind perhaps recording a video and uploading it to youtube so I can see this in action?

Too often things that appear too good to be true, are.

I would not mind at all, in fact I was just considering this. I don't have a digital video camera, but my old digital still camera can record short video, so I'll give it a try. Will post the link on the forum. I have to make another of my Celtic Knot pattern so I can record at the beginning, middle and end of the project, that particular pattern takes over 6hrs carving time.

Would you like to see how the bit exchange works also? Just to prove that it's really easy with that setup

[dragoncarver]

way to complicated for me i would have to buy tools i do not own I AM WAITING FOR QC hello when can i buy one

[Rick P]

Pratyeka - I am hoping you will read post about QC Failure & Cure in Trouble Shooting and comment...

[Pratyeka]

Pratyeka - I am hoping you will read post about QC Failure & Cure in Trouble Shooting and comment...

I did and commented, thanks.

As long as I am here, the lathe I have at work is a little marvel made by Sherline :http://www.sherline.com/4000pg.htm

I have been using this and their milling for more than 5 years now and made stuff like small bushings, jigs, machine parts, all with very little tolerances (+-.001") There are cheaper lathes and millings out there of course, but you get what you pay for.