Thanks Dale. Sound advice. (I do not check the forum as often as I used to.)
Type: Posts; User: bergerud; Keyword(s):
Thanks Dale. Sound advice. (I do not check the forum as often as I used to.)
I think you need to post the project. Some of this does not make sense to me either. If I recall, when carving a project of depth less than 1/2", the machine does not even bother to try and measure...
Try making the board 1/8" proud of the sled. The rear roller switch is not clicking when the roller drops onto the sled. The 1/32" is not enough.
The problem could be that the rear roller is not switching when it comes off of the board onto the carrier. Maybe the head is clamped down a little too much.
I am sorry that I have not replied earlier. The carving depth is determined solely by the touch to the surface. If the machine is having trouble bobbing down the hole, I would check that the black...
Maybe his cut path arc went across the board. A cut path must separate the board into two pieces. So, it has to either be a closed curve with an inside and an outside, or a cut across the board.
Make sure you bolted the drive belt assemblies down between the alignment tabs. Maybe the keyboard side of one of them is up on a tab. Otherwise, I guess it would be the level head problem.
If my memory serves, the machine measures the position of the rotary jig plates and not the dowel itself.
I do not think it was the feather. It appears to be a change in depth. My guess would be that something physically moved during the carve.
It was the ER20 spindle that I had made. It was not too big. In fact it is the same dimensions as the CT. It is what I use. The ER11 that I also had made was not a spindle but an adapter which fit...
Were you using a 1/16" long carving bit? These bits bend into the grain and do exactly what I see in your picture. With the rotary, the carving is with the grain as opposed to normal carving which is...
I have cutout many such parts out of cast acrylic and some of UHMW. I suggest you use a short shank, two flute bit like in the link.
...
I agree, all in the fun of a challenge. I hope it carves ok. Note that you could add more detail to the engine. Parts that stick out the sides (but are still under the 3 inch diameter) could be added...
Nice, I see you got the same wave artifacts. I wonder if they carve. Probably.
I thought I would give this a try. I have not used Designer in awhile. I made an outline and extruded it. Then copied and pasted the extrusion into a rotary project. (I also made a pattern from the...
If the machine is behaving erratically during the start up, it may simply be a software issue. Have you tried re-formatting and re-flashing the card?
You need to use all arcs.
Go with the 3/8. Bigger is ok as long as you do not break through the side.
The symbol font works for me in 3.106. I get Greek on the board.
The machine does the board thickness routine when the carving/cutting is more than 1/2" deep. It is then that you have to jog to line up a touch hole. After the bob down the hole, the machine will...
The machine is supposed to bob the bit into the one of the holes in the side of the carrier; not stall into the top of the side. If you use the blocks, the machine will behave as it would with a...
Another method is to cover areas which you do not want the bit to touch with 0.00 depth carve regions. (The whole region must be 0.00 depth region.) The bit will "jump" over the region.
Where you put the board in the UCB is mostly up to you. If you have a spot where you would like the bit to touch you can put that spot adjacent to one of the touch holes in the side. Otherwise, I...
When slippage occurs with multiple passes, we get stair stepping. Since you made multiple passes and there seems to be no stepping, I would think that either the board slipped before the cutting...
Was this a single pass or multiple pass cutout?