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With closer inspection I can now see that they are indeed dovetail joints but you still need to glue them. I use clamping blocks with hollow sections to fit over the pins and tails for both sides of the joint on each corner. It also helps to use a glue with extended open time and blue masking tape on the inside corners for squeeze out. They make a beautiful and strong joint but really tough to glue up. Especially if they are a little tight.
Nice job on the boxes and joints.
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Thanks Steve, I love dovetails as well. Im thinking tight bond 1. More working time i think. If you have a picture of those clamping blocks, not picturing what you are saying. Thanks again for your advice, I take it all to heart.
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Dovetails were invented long before glue. If they fit that tight without glue they should be fine.
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My money would be on hide glue long before any wood joints. All they needed was to boil a hide.
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You can drill a hole from the top of the dove tail. Glue a small wood dowel to lock them in place.
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What about tapping the joints apart just enough to force some glue into the crack? At least part of the surface would get glued.
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Roger B has a neat idea, but a 12 inch long hole straight down is not easy in my mind. will just tap it a part cant be to bad, next time I glue before Thanks Guys everyone helped so well
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I think George in post 5 has a good point. There is no room for glue. If you take it apart and put glue on all joint surfaces, the wood may expand and you may not get it back together.
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 83133 So I took several different experts advice and got the lower part of the tack box done. I did tap off the dovetails 2/3 of the way and used an acid brush to get glue in all the joints thoroughly and clamped it. It was a bit nerve racking but it went slow and didn't get any break out. Now on the top part of the box. Thanks all
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Nice save. It looks great.