Extra noise question

I just ran my first carving with, I believe it's an "A" machine (SN begins with A?). Anyway, about half way through it started making extra noise like something was vibrating a lot. I stopped it, blew everything off including the motor in the back, and started it up. It was fine for about 2 minutes then started making the noise again. Sounds like it's coming from the motor. I just let it run cause I figured if something broke then I would know what to fix. Any ideas what to do?

Also, the carving I made some of the smaller elements where not very sharp. I thought maybe it was because I used poplar. Does the wood type make a big difference? Thanks!!

Noise and vibration, I would lube the flex cable. CarveWright now has lube available. Search the forums for other sources and how to.

On the detail, it would help if you would post your project file (.mpc) and pictures of eh result.

A machine! It could be the bit and adapter not fully inserted into the QC and the bit is wobbling and or the flex shaft needs to be lubricated. Was the flex shaft bouncing around a lot and was it hot to the touch?

Poplar does carve good but tends to be fuzzy so needs more sanding detail done after the carve. Carve quality can be improved by applying "bit optimization" BEST and when you upload the project to the card use the optimal setting for best quality...

I checked the flex cable cover while it was running and yes it was pretty warm. I pulled the cable out before I ran it since this was the first time and I didn't know how long it had been since being lubed. It felt like it had some lube on it but not sure how much there should be. I will grease it before I use it again. And as to the bit, I checked it when it was stopped once and it did seem to wiggle more than it should, but it wasn't so loose it pulled out or anything so I thought it was ok.

Make sure you don't put grease on it. See videos and use the right lubricant.


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Originally Posted by dehrlich

I checked the flex cable cover while it was running and yes it was pretty warm. I pulled the cable out before I ran it since this was the first time and I didn't know how long it had been since being lubed. It felt like it had some lube on it but not sure how much there should be. I will grease it before I use it again. And as to the bit, I checked it when it was stopped once and it did seem to wiggle more than it should, but it wasn't so loose it pulled out or anything so I thought it was ok.

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If you have any wiggle at all in the bit and adapter it is an indication of wear in either the chuck or the bit adapters. Look at the adapter to see if you have any small indents. The indents are from the BBs in the chuck. If so they need to be replaced. Great time to look at the CarveTight upgrade.

Flex shaft lube, either get the LHR approved lube or CraneCam Lube with molly.

It is most probably what is described above but check for one other problem I had with an intermittent noise, and this was a seriously loud noise. Couldn't figure it out until I broke a bit. Opened up the machine and found that the flex cable housing had come loose from the ferrule that connects it to the cut motor. This had essentially lengthened the housing by enough that the flex cable could slide forward enough to engage and disengage with the square motor socket in rapid succession. This would power and unpower the spindle rapidly which fatigued the bit very quickly and subsequently broke it. What a racket! Surprisingly it didn't look like there was any serious damage to the flex cable.

I removed the entire cable housing (and ferrule which remained attached to the cut motor) and cleaned the end of the housing with some serious degreaser (Clean Streak- photo), roughed up the rubber housing in the area that fits into the ferrule (photo) and glued them back together with 60 minute epoxy. Make sure you get the orientation of the ferrule right. The housing and the cut motor fit together with a bayonet type connection. The slot on the cut motor is vertical (photo) so when you glue the ferrule on it has to be horizontal to the natural bend of the housing (photo) not vertical (photo). Wait a minute! You said the cut motor is vertical and the ferrule has to be horizontal? Yes, remember that you have to make a quarter turn to lock in the ferrule. That means you fit the ferrule housing in with the tabs vertical and turn it one quarter turn which will make the tabs horizontal and locked in and the housing curves naturally over the machine.

I've logged hundreds of hours with this fix and have had not problems since. Nevertheless, I have a brand new spare cable and housing when/if I need it.

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