Printable View
I recently just got my machine and have completed some simple designs. (Also new to these forums)
Just received the keyhole bit. I cannot find anywhere as to how far I place the bit into the collet. I also did not get a stop collar with it. I did see where someone stated the shank end should be flush with the collet - is that accurate?
Any ideas?
Thanks
John
I don't use the keyhole bit in the CW but the shank should be inserted at least the full depth of the collet. The bit stops do not come with the bits so you will need to add your own. If you do not have any you can use a tubing compression sleeve. Link to show what I am referencing to. brass or plastic will work. You and add a drop of super glue to keep them from slipping...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dial-Brass-...Up-Kit/3093047
Thank you. I was also wondering about it slipping... maybe I should use a router instead? Is that what you and others do?
The stop collars are used to prevent the bit from being able to move up into the chuck any deeper then it should. As long as the bit stop is up tight between the chuck and bit, spinning should not be an issue. The chuck, stop, and bit all spin at the same speed. I however do not use this method as of yet ,but do plan to look into it more. I use a router I have set up for keyholes. I have a piece of plywood mounted to a router with a fence. The bit center are marked on the fence, with measuring strip going off of center. I just mark the start point on the board, line up with center mark on fence push down onto bit and move board down the fence to the length I need, by watching the start mark on the scale, then back the board to the start and center mark again and lift the board off the bit.
I have used CW keyhole bit often when making hanging items. I bought CW plastic stop collars when I originally purchased bits that didn’t have them attached. They work fairly well, however if the bit overheats then do melt. I can see where inexpensive plastic tubing would work just as well. Their main function is provide a positive stop for bit insertion which is crucial when you load the bits at the beginning of the carve and then reload when they are needed during the actual carve. Until the last software update I was so frustrated when I would reload a bit at carve time and the machine didn’t recognize it as the same one I put in before. Now, at least, you can accept that the bit is at a different depth than before and proceed.
All-in-all I really appreciate the CW keyhole bit and depend on it and two-sided carving to place the hanging slot where I want it.
Happy Carving,
Mark
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnM57
I use my router table. The purpose of the bit stop is so that you are setting the bit in the collet at the same depth each time you use it. During the start up and bit check the machine retains the bit measurement. When you load it again for the use it double checks that length. If it sees that it is different you will get a prompt stating it does not match. It will ask to either reinstall the bit or use the measurement that it just saw. This is suppose to be a fail safe to insure you are using the bit called for.
Note that most experienced carves go with the use "new measurement" option.