4 Attachment(s)
Making and testing pattern
OK!
I've finished the Rotary Knight scan and carve (1/5/2012).
First I'll point out things I've learned.
1) When you bring the scan in to Pattern editor, remove the bright green border as it will cause an unwanted plunge to the bottom depth of the carve.
2) Before you bring the pattern on to the board, be sure to un check the Scaling box at the bottom of the library list.
3) I left the depth alone.
4) I made my design board slightly less than my pattern width. In my case the pattern was 7.14 and I set the board to 6.898 (I used 6.9, but it went the the lower number).
5) I feel that the use of the Optimal carve is a must for the rotary carve. It takes more time but avoids taking too big of a bite out of the stock, which could make it rotate out of place (OOPs, that is why my first test happened).
6) If you feel that your dowel has too much play, on the Y-axis, use a flat washer the remove that play. We want it free to roll, but not loose enough to move left & right.
7) Since I have not made Ed's vacuum box, and I do have a top mounted vacuum head, I redirected the muffler in to the rear of the jig. I pointed the flow at the non-keyboard side. That kept me from having a sawdust build-up at the worst spot. I never stopped the unit, but I did use another air source every once in a while to blow the area.
I've, also, talked with Ed about limiting the depth of his pre-drilled holes to 1 inch. For the type of carve lay-out, I do not want a hole in the end of my carved item.
AskBud
Attachment 50192Attachment 50194Attachment 50195Attachment 50196
Old English - Davis chess pieces
The Old English - Davis chess pieces are posing some problems. I re scanned just the King and Queen Friday morning and have carved it twice at two different depths. The first was at .600. The original detail, on the actual pieces, was/is not the best contrast. My first run, at .600 netted a narrow carve, about half the bulk of the original. The 2nd, at .300 gave me back the bulk but washed out the detail. I'm using 990 on all the heights during my tests. Saturday, I'll run at 500 and see how that test works out.
From what I've seen so far, I'm wondering if it might be best to scan larger models to compensate for the loss in size in transition. My Saturday test may verify my thinking. I know how the manage larger dowel in the existing jig, and may try that aspect after I run this next test.
AskBud
1 Attachment(s)
Branching out to larger stock
I'm finding that I can scan larger rotary items by making 3 inch discs and mounting my model to them. Once scanned, I can apply the pattern to 2 inch or larger dowel. Modification of the rotary jig can be done without changing the integrity of the product.
Here is a photo of my Roman Senator testing.
AskBudAttachment 50347
3rd Rail for Ed's Rotary Jig
For those that have purchased Ed's Rotary Jig, I've engineered a 3rd Rail.
This rail moves to allow various shorter lengths of dowel stock to be carved without having to glue up pieces to the standard 14 inch length. It also allows for better control of items you might scan (without doing massive glue-ups).
The 971 MB video presentation I've made shows how this is accomplished by the user. I offer this lesson as my gift to you. I would rather not produce these 3rd Rails. I feel they are easy to make and the parts cost is minimal for this DIY project.
I used two T-nuts and two Knobs. The knobs were a bear to locate (for me). I ended up finding them at Grainger's. They are called: Three Prong Knob, 1-1/8,1/4-20x1-1/2 PS. The part number is: 6AXG6.
AskBud
http://www2.wcoil.com/~nharbison/CW-...Rotary Jig.zip
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3rd Rail for Ed's Rotary Jig
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ladjr
Bud
Since I can't work on my machine tonight, I down loaded to lesson on the 3rd rail. That is very interesting. Question why not simply put a slot in the two end boards that Ed has and then we can slide it back and forth.
I hope you take this as a question, because I appreciate everything you do for the forum.
Thanks Great job.
Leo
Leo,
For the benefit of those that do not have this Rotary Jig, allow me to state the following. The ends of the Rotary jig are open. Look again at the photo on the LHR ad. This is where the two pieces of 3/4 stock is placed for the Knob to travel between (and compress against). The 3rd Rail spans the length of the jig, and moves from the keyboard to the non-keyboard rails. This 3rd Rail is removed when using the standard 14" dowel, and only in place as you carve or scan shorter pieces. If, and when, you purchase a jig from Ed, will you fully understand the concept.
I understand your question. I did consider the idea of securing the 3rd Rail from the top of the jig, but needed something that eliminated a need for another loose tool to get mis-placed. This concept also further limited the diameter of stock I could handle as well. I wanted the knobs as my compression tools. I also wanted to make the DIY project easier for the end user, avoiding compromising Ed's original jig.
With this 3rd rail offering, like many ideas and patents, my final 3rd Rail product comes after engineering something that meets our need to avoid waste and improve quality. It's my way of better being able to use all those cut-off pieces of dowel or to scan short models.
AskBud