Berfore the Carve Tight spindle there was the Roc Chuck

:confused: One and all,

Having purchased my CW from Jason at the Little Red Wood Shop some years ago, those early machines had the former chuck assembly vice the Carve Tight.

Just a couple of questions for anyone out there that might be able to help.

1. If someone (me) removed the old chuck and replaced it with the Roc Chuck, did that void the warranty for the machine?

2. For those who did make the switch, and have seen the new Carve Tight chuck assembly, what are the differences between the Carve Tight and the Roc Chuck?

3. With these new chucks (Roc and Carve Tight) what is the best way for indexing the bits when doing a project? In other words, if you need to replace a bit during a carving, and you did the usual setup on starting the project, how do you get the bit shakes slipped back into the chuck at the same depth you used during setup?

Any and all of the help anyone can provide with the above three questions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much in advance!

I am a Rock User simply because I work in 1/4 inch bits and the CarveTite only has 1/2 inch so I would need to mess with adaptors... And the Rock comes in 1/2 and 1/8 inch.... I could just swap the lower head to change sizes.... I love the ROCK..

I use locking rings to set the depth. Others have used Heat Shrink, O Rings glued on and other ways....

Yes, LHR would not be happy if you sent the machine back for a warranty repair with a ROCK on it.... Will it Void the Warranty? Not Sure? But some were charged for a new QC so LHR could do the post repair testing and it came back with a QC and Red Forever Locktite on it. This makes putting the Rock back on a Gamble... Damage the Truck or easily get the new QC off...

What is best.... Both the Rock and the CarveTite have GREAT Reviews... The Single shaft CarveTite from tip to Square Socket on top is a very stable design. The Rock screws on to the threads of the old Truck... Every Threaded Joint has the possibility of Run Out or Out of Center... I have not heard of any complaints of out of center with the Rock... It is a very well made unit...

Good Luck in your choice.... Be sure to read the Tips and Tricks for good info.

AL

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-router...281040_1325+86

I am using both styles of the chucks the Carve tite has been the best choice! The Rock tends to make dents on the bits Insets used. The QT works great in all cases, When you first run the bit's at setup let the machine read the depth setting. On all bits required, When the machine asks for the next bit it will say Bit not as measured Continue or re-meashure CONTINUE it has found the setting of the bit Proceed with the bit and all will be fine.As posted in the pasr the new setting will be used and the old setting wil be over ridden. This has worked for me for years. hope this helps.
Lee

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Digitalwoodshop

I am a Rock User simply because I work in 1/4 inch bits and the CarveTite only has 1/2 inch so I would need to mess with adaptors... And the Rock comes in 1/2 and 1/8 inch.... I could just swap the lower head to change sizes.... I love the ROCK..

I use locking rings to set the depth. Others have used Heat Shrink, O Rings glued on and other ways....

Yes, LHR would not be happy if you sent the machine back for a warranty repair with a ROCK on it.... Will it Void the Warranty? Not Sure? But some were charged for a new QC so LHR could do the post repair testing and it came back with a QC and Red Forever Locktite on it. This makes putting the Rock back on a Gamble... Damage the Truck or easily get the new QC off...

What is best.... Both the Rock and the CarveTite have GREAT Reviews... The Single shaft CarveTite from tip to Square Socket on top is a very stable design. The Rock screws on to the threads of the old Truck... Every Threaded Joint has the possibility of Run Out or Out of Center... I have not heard of any complaints of out of center with the Rock... It is a very well made unit...

Good Luck in your choice.... Be sure to read the Tips and Tricks for good info.

AL

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-router...281040_1325+86

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I love my rock chuckI would not change

I'm not entirely sure of what you are saying here but I think you said that if you use the same bit to go through all of the bit check procedures at the beginning of the carve that you can just press continue when it finds the bit is the wrong length.

I tried that once and now I have a real nice slot carved through the side of one of my jigs with a matching slot through the side of the project leading to the place where the cut out started.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Icutone2

I am using both styles of the chucks the Carve tite has been the best choice! The Rock tends to make dents on the bits Insets used. The QT works great in all cases, When you first run the bit's at setup let the machine read the depth setting. On all bits required, When the machine asks for the next bit it will say Bit not as measured Continue or re-meashure CONTINUE it has found the setting of the bit Proceed with the bit and all will be fine.As posted in the pasr the new setting will be used and the old setting wil be over ridden. This has worked for me for years. hope this helps.
Lee

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As far as the Carvetight is concerned I love ours. It is so much faster and easier to use than the Quick Chuck ever was. And while I was waiting for my new cutting bit to arrive I removed the QC adapter from my old cutting bit and used it in the CT with no problems. Which brings up a question. If the solid carbide bits slip in the CT adapter why didn't they slip in the QC adapter? Do the two small Allen bolts really hold it that much more secure than the CT system? I do use the CT cutting bit exclusively when I have one and I watch the cutting process real close when using the old bit in the adapter. Just wondering.

Quote:

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use the same bit to go through all of the bit check procedures at the beginning of the carve that you can just press continue when it finds the bit is the wrong length.

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this works no lock rings are needed.

lets say i have 4 bits on one MPC I install the 1/16" carving bit and let it rip for all indexing, only then do i change the bit at the carving prompt. I reckon this saves a lot of time.

To address at least one of your three questions . . .

"3. With these new chucks (Roc and Carve Tight) what is the best way for indexing the bits when doing a project? In other words, if you need to replace a bit during a carving, and you did the usual setup on starting the project, how do you get the bit shakes slipped back into the chuck at the same depth you used during setup?"

I entered the game with a B model CW and the Quick Chuck. Changed that for a Roc chuck early on and loving it to this day. Since I have quite a few 1/2" shank bits I looked at all sorts of methods to index them to the same length when inserted. Going for the simple method, I wrap 2 or 3 turns of 1/4" wide masking tape around the shaft of the bit. When it contacts the bottom of the chuck jaws I can feel that I've inserted it far enough and I tighten the chuck. The low cost KISS principle works again.

I have to say the first round of router bit index checks you can just leave or keep the bit in durning the check and not remove, even if the bit's do not macth up like a 1/16" or 1/2" and like the Honey badger the CW does not care. no tape, no collets stops, just hit "continue" and save.

I too use the rock chuck. I would have to say alot of us upgraded to it because there was no carvetite at the time. I know that Ron puts out a amazing product and that sold all of us. You have more versatility with the Rock and Ron backs his product 100%. I recently started using the 3/16 carving bit and simply popped in the 1/2" adapter and I was going. If I ever needed to go back to 1/4" bits I just swap the collets out. Very simple. Just my two cents.....

Thank you one and all for the outstanding information, especially on the warranty issue.

Call me old-fashioned, but............ Ron offered the Roc when there were no other options available for chucks. He developed it himself because he saw a REAL need for something better than the QC that came with the machine. I can't even imagine the hours I spent fighting that dang QC, trying to pry the bits/adapter out of it, frustration to the max. There were times when I literally left a carve sitting for hours while I got my frustration level under control enough to keep trying to change bits out of the QC.

I greatly appreciate the time Ron spent developing, selling, and supporting his chuck, and I still think it's the best. I have never had a single problem with it and it works flawlessly every time. I personally believe that Ron's offering of the ROC is what prompted the Carvewright folks to develop their version, but that is just my opinion.

I can say, absolutly truthfully, that if the ROC had not come along when it did, I would have quit, sold, and/or beat my Carvewright into a million pieces A LONG TIME AGO!!

Thanks Ron, and please take a bow.........

David S.
(with no snappy by-line)

Hi David,
Thank you for the kind words... I really do appreciate it!

I wanted to mention that I have updated the website to now include the 1/2 to 3/16, 1/2 to 3/8, 1/4 to 3/16 Rock Sleeves... I am now also offering the 3/16 Cut out bits, and they perform fantasically!

Best regards,

Ron

Just wanted to say I have the "The Rock" on both of my machines. It works great and I love Ron's bits.
Thanks Ron!!

I take it that you did not put the new spindle on your system. So what is better Ron's or the spindle? I have an A version.