Need advise on Clean Y rail error

Hello All,

I started getting the 'clean Y rail' error message about two months ago. I followed all of the advise and tips in the forum that I could find. Finally (last week) I replaced the Y drive gear (and yes I could see the wear on the shaft and bearing) and bearing. Tried another carve last night and it ran up to 80% of a two hour carve and I started getting the 'clean Y rail' message, got it twice and the Y motor stalled... I have tried every solution. The Y motor is a newer one (less than 20 hours on it). The only thing I am not confident on it the Y belt tightness, should it be tight as possible or loose? Any guidence or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Eddie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jweat002

Hello All,

I started getting the 'clean Y rail' error message about two months ago. I followed all of the advise and tips in the forum that I could find. Finally (last week) I replaced the Y drive gear (and yes I could see the wear on the shaft and bearing) and bearing. Tried another carve last night and it ran up to 80% of a two hour carve and I started getting the 'clean Y rail' message, got it twice and the Y motor stalled... I have tried every solution. The Y motor is a newer one (less than 20 hours on it). The only thing I am not confident on it the Y belt tightness, should it be tight as possible or loose? Any guidence or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Eddie

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The process that applies to the touch plate also apply to the sluggish Y-movement. It could also be a dull but for the hardness of the wood involved, or the expected speed of travel.
AskBud
Turn the machine off and move the Truck by hand and see if you can accomplish the task with no extreme pressure. There could be several reasons for the contact not to be made, or the plate to move stiffly.

1) The Truck travel may be impeded by dirt on the rail, or in the track. Lube on the track or blowing out the inside of the track may help.
2) The Truck belt may not be tight enough (The adjustment is made by changing the tension on the Right end of the track).
3) The Bit Plate may need a spot of lube.
4) Check for a set of wires to be blocking the Bit Plate movement (They are just beyond the Plate, and should not touch). Move them toward the main cut motor. They actually impede the truck from contacting the Bit (touch) Plate with enough force to move it in place.

Eddie,

What are you cleaning the Y rails with? I use regular paint thinner, I tried denatured alcohol but the thinner works fasted and better. Apply with a rag and avoid getting any on the belts. Also remove the bearing covers and clean the bearings. After cleaning the rails and bearings should be smooth as glass. Lube with a dry lube, also apply with a rag.

Belt adjustment should be snug but not over tight. To much tension and it will put to much tension on the Y bearing and gear box.

AskBud,

I will go through your suggestions tomorrow.

Ringneck,

I clean with paint thinner and when I find a rusty spot of something stuck to the rails that the thinner and cloth will not remove, I use 600 grit sandpaper just on that spot. I usually use a dry lube, but I HAVE applied some to the belt in the past. When tightening the belt I try to leave about a 'finger' worth of play. I am cutting deeper than normal into hardwood. Askbud might be onto something about the bit. Problem about a bit is that I have an older machine (B version) and I have NEVER had a problem with the QC chuck so finding the old bits is beginning to become a challenge. Ebay does have a few, I will check that out also.

Thanks for the replies. I will update as things progress...

Eddie

With everything you are doing and has been suggested it comes down to 2 most likely reasons....

1. A Frozen or Sticky Y Rail Bearing, the Lower ones as they get splattered with Sawdust and Pitch... It gets inside the dust shield and causes the problem. One way to check is to use a felt marker and make a mark on the bearing and try rolling it. It may only stick in one direction.... Others have only found the sticking roller by loosening up the Cam Bearings enough to let you try to turn the bearing with your fingers. WD 40 has been shown to free up a sticky bearing but be very careful using it as if it gets on the surface of the wood, you can have problems finishing the wood.

2. On the Lower Y Rail there is Sawdust and pitch built up on the flat areas of the rail..... _O_ The flat area on each side of the round rail.... The flat part of the Bearing packs the sawdust.... I use a brass Tooth Brush size brush and mineral spirits or Alcohol to Scrub it.

Good Luck,

AL

Thank you all for your advise and suggestions, after finding time to try the all with improving results; but will still faults... Tonight I got lucky and stumbled across the apparent culprit. A sreept screw on the Y tension spindle. Pulled it off, cleaned it out and treaded it for a slightly larger dia screw and ran a two hour carve like the Machine was brand new!!! Felt like a fool when it was finished, but she is working quit well now! Thank you all!!

I'll be ordering the new part and a few extra screws and springs tomorrow.

Thanks again

James E. Weathers (Eddie to my Friends and fellow Wood Workers)

Sometimes it's the smallest things that wil trip us up,
good find and thanks for posting it for other forum folks,
to add to their service manuals.

Yes, I know I "FAT FINGERED" all over that post... 25 years as an Infantryman... Knuckle-dragging keeps the floors clean, you know?

Y Stall Problems... Just adding to the bottom of this older post...

Everyone start thinking "Preventive Maintenance" for the Y... Plan to replace the 2 Y gear box bearings with each Cut Motor Brushes Replacement.... 250 Cut Motor Hours. A good cleaning and lubrication at the same time will go a long way too...


AL