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I have had the probe for over a year now but haven't had time to use it for the work I bought it for. I will be scanning gun grips to be able to customize them with new ones from the CW. Can anyone tell me how to put checkering onto the curved surface for the new ones to be cut?
Hi Mike - Just use the Surface Tool for the curve and select "Checkering 2" for whatever shape you want the texture to be carved on.Quote:
Originally Posted by leesheridan
EDIT: That may not work after all - You'll need to have a pattern already on the board (your grip), then create an outline of the area you want checkered and position it over your pattern. Assign the outline a Texture (Checkering 2, say, at .065 size) and set the outline to "Merge Additive". That should work. NOTE: You'll adjust the depth of the texture with the Height Settings - not Depth.
I did a very crude example in about 2 minutes - see photo...
Michael, it sounds simple enough. I'll try the scan today. I'll let you know.
Thanks
I also have been working on a stock for the Remington 12 ga so I can customize our department's patrol stocks. Work in progress will let you all know when its finished.
Michael, It's simply just amazing what your able to do with this machine and software. You need to be for hire! I'll be watching this thread, thanks guys.
If someone wanted to scan in some 1911 grips that would be nice.
While trying to checker gun grips, I used outline pattern for checkering and put an outline grove around checkering that I would like to invert to pattern is there a way? Maybe just make a solid line on outline.
Attachment 15863
I don't know much about gun grips...but this is an interesting topic to me.
Isn't the other side of the grip to be concaved?
How are you doing that?
Some are but most of those that I have are on newer guns that have plastic grips. I have a set in front of me now that are flat and made of wood but they have just a single hole for alignment and stops the grips from moving when the gun is fired. That's easily fixed with a drill bit after the carve.
What gun are you carving for ? I had been working on some like 1911 scanned it in and was trying to get every thing work out on it but put it on back burner. Had cut several in 1/2 in. corian and they really looked sharp.Quote:
Originally Posted by leesheridan
I've done some work in Corian but never thought of it for grips. It sounds like a good idea though. The gun Im working on now is just a heritage 22LR SA. It's my wifes gun and I have a nice piece of Bocote that would give it a nice look. I was going to scan it today but started working on a mantels art work again. How far out are you sanding the corian grips?
Sorry i'm not understanding the question ---How far out are you sanding the corian grips?
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I think he meens how fine a grit are you using.
later Daniel
I used 160 or 220 they both got the corian back slick again then on a bench buffer i used carnuba wax. Also on some i did not sand at all left like a rough dimple tecture over the whole grip then just buffed with the carnuba wax. Did have to sand bottom of side of grips where they get cut out just to take out the high spotsQuote:
Originally Posted by Dan-Woodman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Major_A
As soon as I have time to use my probe I will scan some 1911 grips for you!
Ike
I've been wanting to play around with making some grips myself. I have several different types of 1911 grips as well as Beretta 92/96 grips I can scan.
I'm just stuck on the type of wood to use for it.
Of course first mind is walnut, thought of mrtyle wood or something different!
Ike
I want some Bacote grips on my blued 1911. You can get a nice piece of Bacote for relatively cheap (cheaper than the price of a custom grip).
http://www.centaurarchery.com/images...ote2-small.jpg
I was thinking of trying some ebony. One of my 1911's is stainless steel and a nice black grip would look great.
Here is a pair of 1911 grip straight from scan so you can play with it as you like.
A couple of things to keep in mind : Since this has had nothing done to it round edges lower it till you get to the thickness of the grip you want, and remember when you place it on your project board in designer you want it lowered not carved at top or your grips will be to thick. For example if you had this on a 1/2" board and you carved it @100% height your grip will be 1/2" thick. The only thing you should have to do to the back is file the top of one of them where the safety and slid is. A 1/2' round file works great and only takes 1 or 2 minutes. One last thing is you will probally want to clean up screw hole. A forstner bit in a drill press worked best for me was able to sink screws down and looked reel clean. Have fun and show some pictures.
Michael.Thanks again for the tip on the checkering application. I did the scan and then went for the checkering as if I knew what I was doing. It came out great. I do have another two questions for you. If I want to add to the overall thickness say about 1/16" how do I do it for the entire surface? When working in adobe and I add 1 black pixel around the outside edge then just how much is it adding? The first set I made, I made in pine I even had my wifes name on it turn out. I think before I ever try the bacote I'll just turn the air filter on and leave the shop. The oil in that real fine dust will put anyone down for 12 hours. Michael, thanks again for your help
Hi Mike,Quote:
Originally Posted by leesheridan
Sorry, just saw your message -
You can easily add 1/16 overall thickness in the Pattern Editor. Open the pattern in the PE and just type in the existing thickness plus .063 (that's slightly more than 1/16", but should be close enough). Then re-save the pattern and there you have it!
A black pixel would either be "0" or "256" height in greyscale value - depends if the Photoshop pic has to be inverted or not in Designer. Jeff Birt figured out a formula for determining height using greyscale values awhile back and posted it somewhere in the Forum (I THINK in the Techniques section but not positive). I didn't search for it myself, but you can probably locate it if you need to.
All the Best.
Has anyone done grips for a 9MM? I have a Taurus 92 (same design as the Beretta model) that has a stainless steel barrel and black frame. I'm thinking grips made from purple heart would look awesome.
Brady
I downloaded these from cncguns.com and made a thread and used this as an example about using CAD Software and CarvePic.
This thread is right on the topic for someone looking to make these.
Eric
Better post the *ptn.
Eric
Refering to below Pistol grip ptn. When importing, The exact dims are 4.263 Length * 1.471 Height * .255 Depth. May have to add addtional .050" to the length when importing, because I did not remove the original bmp border when pasting over.
You say the depth is .255 how thick is the material your using cause depending on thickness of material will determine finale thickness of grip unless you lower it.Quote:
Originally Posted by etmaterial
Right
It sounds like the height will require some offset based on import height/material height.
Those are just the reference final machine dims from CAD software and the Page 40 drawing of Blueprint (cncguns.com) so that the model imports and scales to the right width.
I just got the machine a few days ago for Christmas, and was using the software conversion method as a proof of concept to myself and wanted to share method.
Eric
You can try scaling the pattern 1/16 " larger overall for the 1/16 carving bits taper as well, based on depth of cut.
LG
Well noticed this thread after the fact. But here's half of a buttplate for one of my rifles. Used the same technique just from scratch on three layers. 1. vertical dome 2. inverted horizontal dome 3. checkering. My new machine should be in today. I've got designs up the @#$ already and haven't gotten my hands on the machine yet.
Thanks
MH
MH - can't wait to see some of your stuff - you're gonna love the machine.
Just make sure you perform all the "pre-op" stuff before firing 'er up (especially PROPERLY lubing the flexshaft)
I just noticed your imput. If that is the buttplate, isn't the checkering too large? If it's left at that size and round then it will defet the purpose of checkering and will slip around in the shoulder. If you take it down in size it will aid in slipping.
Do you have a Beretta 92 grip pattern to share? I'd love to carve a set for mine. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Bflat5