Here is the latest (12-2011) instructions for calibrating your CW.
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Here is the latest (12-2011) instructions for calibrating your CW.
Thank You, --- Posting it saves a lot of us from having to go Looking for it.
Just copied it to my Manual Folder :cool:
Thanks Connie! I have to do this tomorrow.
Hello,
I have updated the Jan-Feb 2010 Tips & Tricks "Maintaining Accurate Board Tracking" to include the NEW Calibration Instructions as well as all the other pertinent info for maintaining accurate board tracking, etc. You may download it directly from the CarveBuddy website at:
http://www.carvebuddy.com/PDFs/CW_Ti..._Jan_Feb10.pdf
I have sent the same updated version to Connie, so she can replace the "old" one with this new, updated version. It may be a few days before she has had a chance to update the CarveWright website with this, so in the meantime, you can download from the link provided above for the most up-to-date version.
I purchased a used A series machine. Found a broken wire on the board sensor at the sensor. Talked to Carewright, said it would be a pretty deep dismantle to replace the wire. So I decided to update with a 907 update and a new carvetight. I was very careful to follow all the instructions and to make sure the ftc wire was properly oreiented. I took it out and fluked the ftc cable to see if there was continuity. I started out with a broken board sensor wire, a machine that ran. Now I have a machine that has a good board sesnor but no z axeis or cut motor operation. Did I get bad parts? Do I send it off to Carvewright? What should I do. 45 hours on the machine and I managed 1 carving. Any help will be appreciated.
thanks
Sedlock Farm
I purchased the rotary jig a couple weeks ago and tried it out today. When trying to set calibration it turns the three revoulations but does not stop but slows to a crawlin in X( barely see it turn). Take out jig and machine works okay( regular cave) other wise .Tried it several t imes and it does It every time(rotary jig) Any Ideas.Thank Bert
Bert,Quote:
Originally Posted by papawbummie
Make double sure the jig is inserted properly in the machine. The metal tabs seat fully into the "U" shaped areas of both the stationary board guide plate and the sliding board guide plate, and the bottom edge of each metal side panel rests on top of each of those guides.
I encountered the issue you describe a couple times during testing of my rotary jig before they went to market. It was a little puzzling because I THOUGHT I was careful when inserting the jig (but I was wrong). Try reinserting the jig and try the calibration again.
In the Rotary Jig "how to" video and in the PDF instructions, there is mention that applying some downward pressure when cranking down the head onto the jig may help with calibration (by increasing the pressure on the jig). Interestingly, I haven't had to do that myself - I only give the crank a click or two, but that's just my machine. It seemed that the two occasions when the rotary calibration didn't work for me, it was simply the jig was not quite set properly on the keypad side on top of the stationary board guide plate (I needed to push it a little more to the left to make sure the jig side panel was positioned properly).
Just thought of another possible item to check...make sure that the rubber O-ring on the brass roller is not making contact with the rubber belt when the head is cranked down. If excessive pressure is applied when cranking down the head, that O-ring touching the belt could interfere with the calibration. I don't know if that's really possible for the O-ring to make contact or not, but if it can, then it could explain a calibration failure as well.
The same thing happens to me. Try adjusting the position of the jig a little to the right so it is away from the alignment plate just a tad. If that doesn't work, just play with the position a little. Also, make sure the squaring plate is not jammed tight against the right end of the jig. These adjustments seemed to work for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by papawbummie
Just a depth calibration question. Why does the machine use a 1/8" cutting bit to recalibrate the thickness, but uses
the 1/16 carving bit to measure the board?
Great question!Quote:
Originally Posted by DonCP
I don't know. Maybe cause the 1/8 cutting bit has a flat bottom?
Is is because the cutting bit has a flat bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by DonCP
You will also notice that the machine will use the cutting bit instead of the carving bit for the board touch if your project uses both bits.
Makes sense, thank you.