Override the "scale to length" prompt

Newbie....wasn't sure which category this question went in.

I often get the error prompt for my board not being the correct size. This machine is PICKY when it comes to exactness. I try to get as close as I can the exactness for board size. I leave an inch top and bottom and the 7" rule so I figure it's safe to say "no thanks" in the "scale board to size" prompt. I know I've been able to say "no thanks" in the past...however on todays cut it wasn't an option. It was "scale board" or "change board". I had to go with scale...I figured I was 1/16" at best off so how bad could it change the cut. WOW! It took my 14" x 6" cut and turned it into a 9" x 4" cut. That was quite the scale!

Has anyone NOT had the option to bypass the scale board option? Other than be exact in measurement - How can I avoid such a drastic size discrepancy?

Thanks!!!

Please read this.... http://www.carvewright.com/assets/ti...icks_Mar09.pdf

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Originally Posted by CheriWhite

Newbie....wasn't sure which category this question went in.

I often get the error prompt for my board not being the correct size. This machine is PICKY when it comes to exactness. I try to get as close as I can the exactness for board size. I leave an inch top and bottom and the 7" rule so I figure it's safe to say "no thanks" in the "scale board to size" prompt. I know I've been able to say "no thanks" in the past...however on todays cut it wasn't an option. It was "scale board" or "change board". I had to go with scale...I figured I was 1/16" at best off so how bad could it change the cut. WOW! It took my 14" x 6" cut and turned it into a 9" x 4" cut. That was quite the scale!

Has anyone NOT had the option to bypass the scale board option? Other than be exact in measurement - How can I avoid such a drastic size discrepancy?

Thanks!!!

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You can't bypass it. The actual board must be the same size or larger than the virtual board in the Designer. Make the actual board at least an extra inch in width and, of course, the extra 7 inches in length. I almost always use "Center on Board" and say no to "Stay Under Rollers" unless there is some specific reason to do otherwise. As long as your actual board is slightly larger than your virtual board in the Designer it will not ask to scale. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER SCALE! It will almost always never work out.

No to stay under rollers??? eek....

Ok I'll try to run it again with the new virtual board sizes.

Thanks!

Great article! Thanks!!!

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Originally Posted by CheriWhite

No to stay under rollers??? eek....

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That way if you're a fraction of an inch off you won't get the 'scale prompt and you'll still be under the rollers in most cases.

Tricking the machine?? I know the material is there.....

So with the smaller "fake board" measurements in Designer I keep getting the error message that says it won't cut the top part of the project. I know there's an inch of material on the width on top and bottom and 8" on the length.....PLUS my little space left on the board.

Which option should I choose?
Attachment 85922

Just choose manual jig. The machine will be ok with it when it measures the real board to be larger than the project board.

Just click "Ignore"

The board in the Designer (virtual board) should be a little larger than the carving area. The actual board size should be 1" wider and 8" longer than the virtual board. Use "Center on board" and say NO to stay under rollers. Since the actual board is 4" longer on each end it will stay under the rollers. If you answer "Yes" to stay under rollers the machine will expect a board that is 7" longer than the virtual board. This is just one possible scenario. There are many other techniques but I think it's the least complicated until you get accustomed to the machine and software.

EDIT: In actuality, if the board is 8" longer than the virtual board it really doesn't matter how you answer the "Stay Under Rollers" question. Saying NO just means that if your board is a little short it will carve without asking to scale but won't stay under the rollers.

I didn't get the ignore option on that cut. I know I've gotten it before. I'm working on getting better on measurements...LOL

Steve,

you meant the virtual board should be smaller right? I tried that...it looked great! And then my axis stalled. That's in a whole different post! Ugh! I WILL figure this out! LOL

I guess it just depends on how you look at it but the actual board should be larger by 8" in length.

This can sometimes be all about FrugAL Board use... Getting the most from your boards.... I rarely use a sled except to cut slots in my Accountability Boards. But I do use Place On END or CORNER pretty much all the time. And with that... I add 4 inches to the right side of the Screen in Designer or the head of the board. I then start my artwork to the LEFT of that 4 inches. I then TAPE a 4 inch block of wood on the head of the board the same width and thickness. This lets me get the most out of my board. I also leave the board LONG and just cut OFF the project after it is carved. Note in the pictures where I taped a scrap board on the good board and drew a 4 inch block on my artwork in designer to keep me out of that area. PLUS by using Place on END you cut down the SERVO MOTOR TIME as with Center on board the machine measures the board length TWICE.... With Place on END... It measures down "Just to make sure you have enough WOOD"... So only ONCE....

And I always tell it to NOT stay under the rollers as I am putting a "Manual Version" of stay under the rollers by adding the block... And for SHORT Boards like the 2 cut out deer... I tape a scrap on the BACK SIDE TOO... So the back stays under the rollers.

The GOAL of "Stay under the ROLLERS" is that it is 3.5 inches from the BIT to each roller... Or 7 inches between Rollers... The GOAL is to have the project board PRESSED down on the Rubber or Sand Paper Belts. This keeps the board FLAT with NO ELEVATION Changes. When the board is only being held by ONE roller "Bad Things HAPPEN"... From Lines and Bumps in the Carved Area TO the BRASS ROLLER loosing contact with the board and the board moving in the X Direction and SNAPPING A BIT... Or the board is damaged... Once the board losses contact with the Brass Roller.. It is ALL LOST.... You just made nice FIREWOOD....

IF you think what the MACHINE WANTS... it's EASY.

AL

I have to deal with the machine wanting to scale up my projects to width.
I primarily make 5.5in wide designs and load 5.75 boards. The machine gives two options scale to width 5.62 or something or load new board. Rarely do i get ignore. Ive started to load 5 5/8 boards and i think it doesn't do it anymore, but i should not have to deal with this anyway right?

Please post an actual MPC file that you are having trouble with. Also, measure the actual board that gives you this trouble and post the exact dimensions of the board.

Having complete information we can view can lead to a complete solution for you.

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Originally Posted by honeychild

I have to deal with the machine wanting to scale up my projects to width.
I primarily make 5.5in wide designs and load 5.75 boards. The machine gives two options scale to width 5.62 or something or load new board. Rarely do i get ignore. Ive started to load 5 5/8 boards and i think it doesn't do it anymore, but i should not have to deal with this anyway right?

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You might need to calibrate the Y.

Perhaps, but 9 times out of 10 it's usually an issue either with the layout in the software or with the board dimensions. We cannot know for sure until we get the file and info requested.

By the way, neither of my machines have needed recalibration in over ten years of use! Maybe I'm just lucky!