2" Dowel from a 2x2 MPC

I don't have the rotary jig but I was wondering what your thoughts about using this mpc to produce a dowel. It should produce a 2" dowel 12" long leaving both ends with 1” X 2"square. I don't see why the machine couldn't handle this however I may be totally off base here but you have to start somewhere I guess.
:D
Board Layout 14" X 6.727 X .750

Drew a series of vectors 11.5 and assigned a 1/2 straight bit using 4 passes with a max .138 per cut for a total cut of .41 cut allowing for a .250 overlap for the bit on the ends of the vectors (should yield 12”). I used Randall Newcomb diagram below to get the depth.



In this first diagram ignore the top number it's referring to a safe Z and doesn't pertain to the CW
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Attachment 48166

The Rotary Jig is unable to Rotate Square stock.

Ed

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Originally Posted by edzbaker

The Rotary Jig is unable to Rotate Square stock.

Ed

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Thanks Ed... Well it was a good thought anyway. How about if the corners where cut down?

It was a good thought. But the existing Jig uses one inch on each end of the Round stock to rotate the piece and to keep it centered under the cuting bit.

Ed

Dan, check your PM.

Also, if someone could take a 2 inch dowell in STL format then slice it and make into mpc, that MAY work. The problem would be the 7 degree angle if the carve bit.

Got ya.... Thanks again Ed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edzbaker

It was a good thought. But the existing Jig uses one inch on each end of the Round stock to rotate the piece and to keep it centered under the cuting bit.

Ed

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WOW Steve.. It would definately work, carving in slices and then stacking and glueing it up, then carving it again... That piece of wood would be Tired when you got finished with it in the Rotary jig...
I have never seen so many ideas on makeing a piece of round wood..... But Ideas are what make things happen...

Ed

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Originally Posted by PCW

Thanks Ed... Well it was a good thought anyway. How about if the corners where cut down?

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Any portion of the stock that exceeds the 2 inch diameter of the intended dowel will bind in the jig. The design is based on using 2 inch dowel stock. Perhaps the attached drawing will help you see the issue with any stock outside of the 2 inch diameter.
AskBud
Attachment 48170

Stacking 2" discs and gluing them would work too. A little messy and must be done accurately but very possible. Contrasting wood types could be very attractive!

Whew... that would give a 2" holesaw a workout. I actually do have something similar on my "To-Do" list. I plan to stack & glue pieces of wood of different colors "On an angle" cut that into squares and turn them down to 2" X 36" dowels. I think that would make a walking cane like no other.

I see now that Tonight, you have your "Creativity" hat on Steve..

Ed

Thanks for the reply Bud. That's kind of why I was asking about removing the four corners so it would get you close to 2". Hard to picture it and don't know the restriction. Just curious on my part.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AskBud

Any portion of the stock that exceeds the 2 inch diameter of the intended dowel will bind in the jig. The design is based on using 2 inch dowel stock. Perhaps the attached drawing will help you see the issue with any stock outside of the 2 inch diameter.
AskBud
Attachment 48170

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Ed, You have NO idea! Having a 4axis CNC and a REVO gives me some experience in this area. Only if I had more time! Work, hunting season, grand kids and HoneyDo's leave me little time..

OK, for the disc's.. Create a MPC that cuts them out. If you have the Rotary jig you DO have a CarveWright, right??

Get 3 to 4 pieces of angle, either iron, steel or aluminum and some large hose clamps. Add a 14 inch clamp to put pressure on the disc's.

Glue and stack the disc's within the two edges of each of the angle pieces. Put the pipe clamps around the angle and snug. Place the clamp on the disc's to squeeze them together and then tighten the hose clamps.

Allow to dry and clean the glue off. Drill the ends as necessary.

Just a thought..

You asked and here it is. A 2" round by 14" long pattern cut into 4 pieces to be cut from .5" thick boards. In the MPC is 2 pattern each making up one half of the round 2" stock. Cut each 2 times and glue up (I would use something like sand blasting sand between the glue ups to keep them from sliding).

Note: may want me to resize the stock a little oversize for the taper of the bit to get a final 2" dia. Just let me know.

Ed, do your glue up of various types of wood, making a board. Then carve the round from the patterns I just posted, glue those up and carve in your jig. you could get some really interesting patterns from that. I like doing segmented wood turnings http://lambswoodworking.com/misc/seg%20vase1.jpg

You guys are great. Eddie the only problem I see is that if the slices would need to be cut using a raster and the machine time may outweigh the benifits. What do you thing about vectors and assigng a .25 bullnose? May go a lot quicker.


Lynn, feel free to move this thread to techniques if you see fit.

12" x 1.75" square stock with 2 x 1" " rubber wheels screwed on each end?

PCW, the only way to assign a different bit (that I know of) is to do the whole thing in vector in designer. Then It would be hard to get the exact roundness on the second piece. The round top would be easy (dome). In modeling and STL import I do not see a place to assign a bit.

If someone wants to try, mine has the exact measurement of the first piece for them to work from. Thus the second piece would start with the width of the first and taper down to 2" with a dome to round it. Good one for Kenm, he is good at these types.

Make your own multi-wood dowels useing a Ringmaster. Cut several different species of 2" rings and glue together to form your dowel. You now will have a dowel with a 1/2" hole all the way through, ( good for making lamps). Plug the ends of the dowel with whatever it takes to use in the Rotary jig. You can now have a carved lamp base.
later Daniel

Eddie, I don't have the Rotary yet myself -- but,

I spent some time looking into making 2" Dowels with the CW Designer in both 2 and 4 pices sections,
in my honest opinion "unless you want to say, or do it as a personal challenge" your time and cost of materials,
would be better spent on ordering or purchasing ready make round blanks for you projects.

Maybe I'm just getting lazy, but that's my thoughts about it.

Nice idea Ken but I think I will buy them for now. I have a few pieces to round off in the lathe to try out. Don't want to ware out the brushes on the machine.
Lee

Ken I agree with you. Someone asked for the MPC, and I made the model/STL file, and it was mentioned to assign a different bit, and I mentioned you making the vector one in designer.

Only purpose I see is if they wanted to segment the board then cut and glue the section on the CW. Other than that, it would take too long, and not worth the time and material. IMO

I do not own the rotary jig either, was just trying to help out.

Thanks for trying, ken. I think I will order them myself. No lathe yet. Capt Barry

I posted this in another part of the jig area, I'll post it here also http://youtu.be/TUA3lryix64 a video on making round stock with a router.

Jim

I just got an e-mail from bayerwood.com and Mike says they have the 2" X 14" predrilled Carving stock for the Rotary Jig now.

Ed

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Originally Posted by edzbaker

I just got an e-mail from bayerwood.com and Mike says they have the 2" X 14" predrilled Carving stock for the Rotary Jig now.

Ed

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Got the email also, but to late to call tonight! Top of the to do list for the AM though!!!

Here is a jig I made a long time ago for holding round stock. I made it for holding salt/pepper shakers while drilling for the salt/pepper mechanism. Needed to be drilled in the center and held still while drilling. I now use it for drilling those holes for the support bolt on the rotery jig. As you can see the bottom can be clamped onto the drill press table. Maybe will give someone an idea to use.

I know I seen it some where that Lowes carries 2" X 48" dowels. Well yesterday while I was getting a dowel for my birds cage I took the time to see if they in fact carried the 2" dia stock, yes and it is popular and I didn't see any other type of wood for the 2" dowels. My store only had one piece in stock. And if I recall it was like around $7.50. I have no idea how this wood would carve or turn on a lathe, I just thought I'd post what I seen.

CJ

Yes, I discovered them last week. I am very happy with the way they carve.

Nice job Morton, do you have a PTN or MPC of the Eagle to share or is it a purchased item?
Thanks and nice job,
Lee

Thanks.
The eagle is a pattern that comes with Aspire. It is from VectorArt3d. You can get it in stl format or in my case, I use Aspire to make a grayscale, the import into designer.

I have been trying to use your jig, but the dole turns from the motion of the carving head. Have you seen this problem before and if so how did you fix it.

Leo Davenport

Do you mean that the dowel is slipping on the bottom board because of the carving forces? (Maybe your dowel is smaller than 2" in diameter or the head is not cranked down enough.)

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Originally Posted by ladjr

I have been trying to use your jig, but the dole turns from the motion of the carving head. Have you seen this problem before and if so how did you fix it.

Leo Davenport

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Are you saying that the dowel is loose, or that the dowel is moving in what seems a wrong direction for a flat board?
AskBud

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ladjr

I have been trying to use your jig, but the dole turns from the motion of the carving head. Have you seen this problem before and if so how did you fix it.

Leo Davenport

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Leo, I posted this several weeks ago. Your order was one of the EARLY ones, (3rd one shipped) READ BELOW, this is probably the cause, and fix for the slip.

I sent this in an E-mail to everyone who has a Rotary Jig, but some of the messages were not deliverable...

It has been found that on some models of the carvewright machine, the Rotary jig is not compressing the round stock as it should. This is caused by some models having screws that protrude higher than other models in the area where the jig sits. With your machine turned OFF, with a 2" piece installed in the jig, put both pieces of the rotary Jig in the machine. Crank the head down as low as it will go (Until you hear clicking in the crank). Reach in and see if the round wood can be turned by hand. If so, look under the Rotary jig "Side Rails" and see where the screw heads are not allowing the jig to go all whe way down on the guide plates.
Remove the Jig top piece, and with a drill or something to grind with you can remove just enough wood from the side rails (About 1/8 inch, Where the screws are hitting) to allow it to set down. You can probably see indentions where the screws were.
Once this is fixed, test the round piece by hand to see if it is now tight when the head is cranked down.

I appoligize for any inconvienence... Contact me if you need assistance,,, .

Ed Baker .

I should add: Rotary Jigs shipped later have had this problem corrected prior to shipment.

I believe this is the area Ed is speaking about that needs to be cut out. On some models the bolts on the side rails protrude high enough to interfear with the jig. This photo might help you see where the problem existed until cut out.

Thanks Smoken D, I didn't have a picture available, but you saved the day. Leo sent an e-mail to me and said the problem was solved, and he is now carving on round wood.

Ed