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I have just ordered the rotary jig I have the software but I'm waiting on the jig.. My question is when diong the rotary it does'nt look the same as when you do it flat... it does'nt have a thickness on the rotary it looks darker than when doing it with the rotary is that because it is looking as a dowell ?
When you are setting up the rotary project in tell it the dowel diameter in the board settings. The left screen in more of a reference for laying out your project and the board width is the dowel diameter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aokweld101
You will have to set up a flat board in another project to see the results of a litho.
Results of my hit and miss rotary's... The two of the carves of the same pictures are at different depths .001 difference
They look really nice. Amazing what you have done with just drain pipes!
Dan, like you said it depends on the vairation on the thickness of the pipe ...it amazed me on the differece of .001 would make and the brightess of the light.
Well, I guess we are going to have to work on the accuracy problem so it is not so hit and miss. You have inspired me. I think I will see how my prototype rotary works on these pipes. Can you show us a picture of how you hold the pipes? I guess if they have nonuniform thickness, then they need to be held accurately from the inside for consistent lithophanes.
I have been experimenting with the light for the rotary litho's I was using a battery light puck with 30 watts I did'nt like have to turn the puck on and then put the pipe on top of it so I went and bought a LED, 35 watt bulb and on and off switch its brighter and shows the litho better.
That looks great! Very nice and convenient way to light up the litho!
Very very nice.
I was thinking that I would use the CW to make the parts to hold the pipe in the jig. It might take a few tries to get it right. Maybe a little sanding or tape.
(The parts should really be turned on a lathe. Maybe the rotary jig itself could make the parts.)
I'm going to try your end cap and leave the end cap that I've been using off, do I have to change my settings?Quote:
Originally Posted by bergerud
You need to somehow check how true the plug and/or pipe spins. Maybe look at it during calibration or by running the x drive test with the jig in the machine. Watch and see if it runs true.
That is a great idea. Just different diameters for different size pvc pipes.
Mike
So what I am thinking, when you do a "eye ball" check you do the settings the same as a regular lithophane, .180 depth and 450 height.Quote:
Originally Posted by bergerud
I done the end caps per your m.p.c.. Dan, that was the problem is the end peices were not centered I checked the thicknes of the pipe at the smallest part and was .213 I set my depth at .14 it turn out great .
That is great. Can you post a picture of the setup?
I have been trying to rework my mpc on the rotary base I have the reverse side of the pocket cut at .5 to allow a nut from the light socket to be flush but in doing so I need to go .625 just so the wires do'nt get pinched in the area that I have out lined on the reverse side.
I do not know about the wire pinch. Make the board thicker or add some rubber feet?? I did not like the center cutout from the front with the pocket behind it. Drills are the answer here.
Trying to setup first litho, Question I have is when you turn litho view on are both windows showing the litho view?? I am only getting the litho view on left window?
Thanks
Designer was not programmed with rotary lithos in mind. This was something that users came up with. I think that the left view only works because it is the same window as the normal board view.
The litho view only appears in the left window when doing rotary. That won't give you a correct preview, since the material of the rotary stock is assumed to be solid for the entire diameter. (Actually, half the diameter in the unwrapped view.)
What I do is create a second "flat litho" file and set the material thickness to match the wall thickness of the pvc pipe. That way, you can experiment with your depth settings and get an accurate preview in the "flat mode". Once you're happy, simply set the same depth of carve for your rotary file and carve it! :)
Ok Got it Michael Thanks for the info guys First time I have tried to use it not sure if was right or wrong?? thanks again.. Enjoyed talking to you at Houston Michael very much enjoyed you presentation again.
Mike;
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtylerfl
Thank you, Mike. Have a great weekend!
need a little help I just got the rotary jig. and tried to do your lithopane lamp I followed the instruction to the tee. when calrotary jig all was ok but when I ran project I keep getting a error e03-0400 edge detection fail I reinstall jig still the same thing I even put blue masking tape on pvc pipe still no good so I ran a flat wood carve and machine works fine. no issues with edge detection. so I tried it again and it says the same thing. the next morning wanted to make a litho jig for a flat carving so again follow the section on carvewright lithos and make board 19x11.125 x 750 I am looking for a cut of 12x 10.25 x .25 depth I have the added 7" for machine when I run project I tell it to stay under rollers then run project . now it cuts a 7.75 x 6.25 with a depth of .25 not sure whats going on with this machine now
Quote:
Originally Posted by masonville04
See my reply on your original question on this... https://forum.carvewright.com/showth...656#post274656
i figured it out made the carve thanks for your help