Coin Caddy Problem

[dwwilson44]

BTW I love the coin caddy and am making them for my grandkids. I made the first one using the 1/8 bit and it was a little rough but still good and everything worked fine. I then decided to use the 1/16 bit for the next one and after I chose the bit the machine said that the board was too thick. i told it to go ahead, thinking that it would switch to the 1/8 bit to drill through. Incidentally the board was the same as for the first one that went ok and I had thoroughly cleaned the rollers. I was wrong, as it routed it used the 1/16 bit and did not even try to rout through the board. I know that I can use a small drill bit to drill through to get the patterns lose. Any suggestions as to how to be able to rout through 3/4" material when using the 1/16 bit. I guess my alternative is to plane the board 1/32 or so if I get that message. I didn't want to due to the way the patterns fit together.

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

Sorry you had a problem. If you follow the instructions to the letter, the project will run trouble-free for you. The message "too thick to cut" is a false message if you are using 3/4" material and can be ignored - simply select PROCEED and all will be well. (That false message is a minor software bug that was recently discovered and will be corrected in the next software update.)

The 1/16" tapered bit is only for carving - not cutting out along cut paths. NOTE: There is a new 1/16" cutting bit (straight bit -NOT tapered) but that is specifically used only for materials 1/4" or less in thickness. I am going to assume you are not referring to that particular specialty bit. If you even own that bit, you would be able to tell just by looking at it that it could not go through a 3/4" thick board - it's far too short!

So...for the Coin Caddy you must use the 1/8" cutting bit that came included with your machine, exactly as specified in the instructions that came with the project. Do not substitute the 1/8" vs the 1/16" bit - they are designed for completely different purposes. The 1/16" tapered bit is for the carving - the 1/8" bit is for the cutting out.

To re-emphasize - never attempt a cut path cutout with the 1/16" carving bit. You'll likely cause damage to your project, the bit, and possibly your machine.

Hope that gets you back on track. Please let us know if you are still unclear about anything. Glad to help if necessary.

[dwwilson44]

Thanks for the quick reply. I ddrilled short spaced small holes in the routing region of the cutouts and will use a coping saw to cut out the pieces. What I don;t understand is that the carvewright asked which bit I prefered, the 1/8 or 1/16. When I did the first one, it asked me to insert both bits which it aligned and then asked me to insert the 1/8 bit. It carved and routed with the 1/8 bit. It did not do it this time, as I mentioned just asking which bit to insert, and I chose the 1/16. I really prefer the detail with the 1/16, it is far superior to the 1/8. I infered from the pdf that the carving would use both bits, the 1/16 for carving and the 1/8 for routing, but I can't seem to get there when I run the project. I would not be trying to get this figured out, but I have one or two more to make. Thanks.

[dwwilson44]

I did get the too thick to cut message and I told it to ignore and continue.

[mtylerfl]

Thanks for the quick reply. I ddrilled short spaced small holes in the routing region of the cutouts and will use a coping saw to cut out the pieces. What I don;t understand is that the carvewright asked which bit I prefered, the 1/8 or 1/16. When I did the first one, it asked me to insert both bits which it aligned and then asked me to insert the 1/8 bit. It carved and routed with the 1/8 bit. It did not do it this time, as I mentioned just asking which bit to insert, and I chose the 1/16. I really prefer the detail with the 1/16, it is far superior to the 1/8. I infered from the pdf that the carving would use both bits, the 1/16 for carving and the 1/8 for routing, but I can't seem to get there when I run the project. I would not be trying to get this figured out, but I have one or two more to make. Thanks.

Hello,

The machine won't ask which bit you prefer...rather, it prompts you to select a bit, and normally the appropriate bit is already selected on your LCD panel (unless you altered the normal routine somehow).

You mentioned that you prefer the 1/16" carving bit for it's detail. You may not know this, but that's the ONLY bit you use for carving a dimensional design. One would never use the 1/8" cutting bit for carving. I can't even imagine what that would look like. I certainly hope you aren't actually trying to carve with the 1/8" cutting bit!

The mpc that is included with your Coin Caddy project is "plug-n-play". You don't change anything, you don't assign any bits. Everything is already set up automatically. All you need to do is upload it to your memory card and follow the step-by-step instructions in your pdf.

I would be very pleased to speak with you in person if any of this is still unclear. You can call Mon-Fri, 9am to 5pm ET via the phone number listed at the CarveBuddy website.

If you need some one-on-one help, I am happy to serve you. (Everyone on this forum is happy to offer assistance as well!)

[Robsimjr]

I purchased a the Coin Caddy project about a month ago. I just got to actually carving it out yesterday. I did break a cutting bit. But I managed to complete the carving of the project. When I was cleaning it up I noticed that the coin slots looked narrow. I was upset and started to enlarge the Quater slot manualy. As I was working on it I went and got a roll of Quarters and found out the slot was to short to accept $10.00 in Quarters. I used the virtuall board that was specified in the project tutorial, which was .750"X9.25"X32". If I could enlarge this project that board would be too snall. If you can help with this I would appreciate it.
Bob

[fwharris]

I purchased a the Coin Caddy project about a month ago. I just got to actually carving it out yesterday. I did break a cutting bit. But I managed to complete the carving of the project. When I was cleaning it up I noticed that the coin slots looked narrow. I was upset and started to enlarge the Quater slot manualy. As I was working on it I went and got a roll of Quarters and found out the slot was to short to accept $10.00 in Quarters. I used the virtuall board that was specified in the project tutorial, which was .750"X9.25"X32". If I could enlarge this project that board would be too snall. If you can help with this I would appreciate it.
Bob

Did you get any messages asking to "resize"?? If so that was your problem. If the CW saw that the board was any length less than the 32" you would have gotten the msg to "scale to fit".

[mtylerfl]

I purchased a the Coin Caddy project about a month ago. I just got to actually carving it out yesterday. I did break a cutting bit. But I managed to complete the carving of the project. When I was cleaning it up I noticed that the coin slots looked narrow. I was upset and started to enlarge the Quater slot manualy. As I was working on it I went and got a roll of Quarters and found out the slot was to short to accept $10.00 in Quarters. I used the virtuall board that was specified in the project tutorial, which was .750"X9.25"X32". If I could enlarge this project that board would be too snall. If you can help with this I would appreciate it.
Bob

Update...I talked to Bob on the phone a few minutes ago. The size problem was due to allowing the project to scale (which is a no-no as we all know...Tips & Tricks - ISSUE 18 March 2009 "Scaling and How To Avoid It" (http://www.carvebuddy.com/PDFs/CW_TipsandTricks_Newsletters/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Mar09.pdf))

Bob is going to try again, but this time making sure his board is at least the minimum dimensions specified in the instructions. (The virtual board measures .75" x 9¼" x 25" - - - the REAL board placed into the machine must be at least .75" x 9¼" x 32") I gathered from our conversation that he altered the virtual board layout which led to the scaling problem.

The broken bit is somewhat of a mystery. He did recently change from the QC to the Rock, and I think he said this was his first project he ran with it. He was having a small issue with getting the bit in the Rock to consistently maintain a repeatable length extending from the Rock chuck, but I think he has that sorted out now too.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Another thing to watch with the ROCK is the flat spot in some bits, especially ones from LHR.... I took the locking screw out of the ROCK and put the bit in and saw my first choice of locking ring placement let me have the opportunity to lock the bit on the flat spot and not know it....

Always make sure you don't lock the ROCK on a flat spot, the bit could come loose and break....

This is a possible reason for the broken bit.....

AL

[Ike]

Another thing to watch with the ROCK is the flat spot in some bits, especially ones from LHR.... I took the locking screw out of the ROCK and put the bit in and saw my first choice of locking ring placement let me have the opportunity to lock the bit on the flat spot and not know it....

Always make sure you don't lock the ROCK on a flat spot, the bit could come loose and break....

This is a possible reason for the broken bit.....

AL

Thanks AL, I broke 2 cutting bits on a small project using the "Rock" I thought maybe because I don't have any bit set rings and I didn't put the bit in the same way it went through setup.

I have been trying to hit the flat spot with the set screw. I never broke any bits with the QC and both my cutting bits hurts!

Thanks again Al!

Ike

[PCW]

Here is a quote from Ron Justise. I don't think he will mind if I post this information.>>

When you insert either a tool, or sleeve, please point either the slit in the sleeve, or the flat on the tool towards the hex in the clamp screw. (this is where you insert the "T" handle to tighten up or loosen the bits).. This will insure that you are clamping in the optimum spot (not on a slit, and not on a flat)... If you happen to clamp in one of the flats, it can kick up a small burr on the clamp nut that will cause the clamp to not want to release properly. If this happens, simply remove the screw from the clamp nut, and push it out with the "T" handle wrench through the screw hole. If it has a big burr on it you may have to use something to tap on the "T" handle. Once you get it out, just take a file and work the burr off, then re assemble. The clamp nut should slide in freely. You can then slide a tool up into the bit adapter, and rotate the clamp nut until it engages the tool. You will know it is correct when the arc that is ground on the outside of the clamp nut is flush with the outside of the bit adapter. You can then put the screw back into the locknut, and tighten up as usual.
If you ever run into a situation where the bit doesn't want to release, just loosen up the screw one or two full turns, and push on the head of the screw with the "T" handle... This will always push the locknut back to allow for removal. If it is really stubborn, just tap on the head of the screw...

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[Ike]

Thanks Dan! Another example I need to slow down and read! I read it as please point either the slit in the sleeve, or the flat on the tool towards the hex in the clamp screw. And missed the don't tighten down on the flat spot!

For the record I knew it was my fault for the broken bits and not the "Rock"! Al and Dan has shown me my errors of my way!

Ike