Questions- 1-Lettering depth 2-Bit replacement

[Rocky]

1. I'm using Centerline to do some lettering (60 degree bit) and my CW seems to be going a little deeper with each letter than in the past. Is there a way to test and control lettering depth (I assume bigger letters go deeper than smaller ones)?


2. I'm going to try a new 1/4" carbide 60 degree bit from another manufacturer (about 1/16" of the tip of my original CW bit broke off just used to carve wood). The new bit is slightly longer than the old bit. I assume this is not a problem? If not, should the extra length stick out at the top or the bottom of the adapter?

Thanks,

[cnsranch]

Rocky, your manual will show the proper amount of bit that should be protruding from the bottom of the adapter.

[atauer]

Rocky, your manual will show the proper amount of bit that should be protruding from the bottom of the adapter.

The manual will show the proper amount for one of our bits. You must remember that he clearly stated that he is using a bit from a different manufacturer, which is not recommended.

[Ike]

The manual will show the proper amount for one of our bits. You must remember that he clearly stated that he is using a bit from a different manufacturer, which is not recommended.

Curious why can't you use others bits, is because of the notch in the shaft? The only bit I use from CW is the 1/16th ballnose. I have always used V-60 and V-45 and V-90 from Pricecutters and never had any problems...

I always make sure I set the shaft properly in the holder.

Ike

[DocWheeler]

Rocky,

In the past you might have left the default 90 degree specified in Designer, it will not carve as deep (no matter what bit is actually inserted).

[brdad]

If the tip broke off, it will carve wider and probably would appear deeper because of it.

[Rocky]

Doc, good point, I never thought of that possibility.

I am trying another manufacturers bit (and it's not cheap) because I am disappointed with the 60 & 90 degree bits I got with my CW (I assume there is no warranty on the bits). About 1/16" broke off both of them. As I said, I only used the 60 for wood, but I did use the 90 on some Corian.

By the way, I did not see any flat spot on my CW bit when I removed it from the adapter.

Thanks for the feedback, folks.

[liquidguitars]

If the tip broke off, it will carve wider and probably would appear deeper because of it.

Thats right..

Its the cutter tip in the drivers seat for indexing and cutting.

Go to your local carbide saw shop to see if it could be sharpened if not you will need a new one.


About 1/16" broke off both of them

Most wood will not chip carbide but some plywood will so its best to keep a eye on all your cutters..


By the way, I did not see any flat spot on my CW bit when I removed it from the adapter.

Thats ok... when replacing the adapters, some say to tighten one side first, then the next allen 2nd.

I also add a drop of Blue locktight on the router bit shank. But I have to use a heat gun to remove the bits to sharpen or when replacing bit adapters.


LG

[Rocky]

Thats right..

Its the cutter tip in the drivers seat for indexing and cutting.

Go to your local carbide saw shop to see if it could be sharpened if not you will need a new one.



Most wood will not chip carbide but some plywood will so its best to keep a eye on all your cutters..



Thats ok... when replacing the adapters, some say to tighten one side first, then the next allen 2nd.

I also add a drop of Blue locktight on the router bit shank. But I have to use a heat gun to remove the bits to sharpen or when replacing bit adapters.


LG


Thanks for the feedback. Since no one has commented on my question about testing/adjusting, can I assume there is none for this issue (I didn't see any in the manual)?

[pkunk]

A bit with the same profile but with a longer shaft will work OK. Just be carefull to get it tight in the adapter & let more of the shaft be above the bit adapter. The length below the adapter is not critical because the machine measures/references to the tip of the bit.

[Rocky]

Thats right..

Its the cutter tip in the drivers seat for indexing and cutting.

Go to your local carbide saw shop to see if it could be sharpened if not you will need a new one.



Most wood will not chip carbide but some plywood will so its best to keep a eye on all your cutters..



Thats ok... when replacing the adapters, some say to tighten one side first, then the next allen 2nd.

I also add a drop of Blue locktight on the router bit shank. But I have to use a heat gun to remove the bits to sharpen or when replacing bit adapters.


LG



I did carve some plywood, never thinking that plywood could be a problem with bits. Who knew? :confused:

[cnsranch]

Rocky - re lettering depth -

The depth of a centerline letter is based on the size of the text - it can't be adjusted - a 90 will cut deeper than a 60, Doc's point was that if you specify 90 in Designer, then use a 60, you'll get the shallowest cut you can get.

Where you get into trouble is when the size of the letters in Designer are bigger than the bit can handle - either the 60 or 90 bits cut in one pass, with a clear, fine line at the bottom of the letter. If the design is too large, you'll have uneven "troughs" in the finished project.

Some have used a sign maker's bit to make larger letters - the v-groove bit has a flat bottom, allowing larger letters.

Take a look at the jpeg, the W on the left is set with a 60v, the one on the right is set with a 90 - both are about 10" tall to show those "troughs".

[forqnc]

I did carve some plywood, never thinking that plywood could be a problem with bits. Who knew? :confused:

Possibly due to the glue (between laminations) being heated up when cut at 20,000+ RPM

I was warned away from plywood when I first got my CC, by a good woodworking friend. I thought I could use it for cheap test projects, his reply was what I save in wood I will probably be spend that plus more on replacing bits. Just my 2 cents

[Digitalwoodshop]

I broke the tip off of my V60 when I dropped it on the center shaft. When I do a narrow board I place a small block of wood in the machine under the bit to cushion the blow if it drops. I put a rope on it so I would not forget it in the machine.

I agree, some lumber companies have saw and bit sharpening services and the tip of the V 60 could be made again.

AL

[Kenm810]

Some Plywood and Particle Boards Can be very rough on a cutting and carving bits,
we see the sparks fly every one and a while on the table saws
that are caused by the glues or contaminants mixed in with the products.
Even though the fine dust is an annoying, unpleasant, nuisance, I do use MDF for carving pattern and text test runs,
it has no grain to contend with, and is fairly cheap.
Also here’s photo of a flat tipped sign makers V-Groove bit for large text.

[Rocky]

Thanks, folks! You have been very helpful.......as usual.