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alsden
12-24-2008, 11:54 AM
When I measure a board to get its dimensions plug those dimensions into the software add my pattern. When I get to the machine it scales my pattern almost in half. IS there somewhere that explains the LCD more in depth. The manual is a terrible resource.

Jeff_Birt
12-24-2008, 12:02 PM
Hello, welcome to the forum. You have stumbled upon the #2 most common newbie mistake. The good thing is the cure is readily available for free. Run, don't walk, over to: http://www.carvewright.com/cms/tips-and-tricks, and read the past issues of the Tips&Tricks newsletter. I think December 2007 issue explains the 7" rule to avoid unintentional scaling.

Also if you look under the support tab of the main CarveWright website you'll see a bunch of tutorials too. Also free for the watching.

alsden
12-24-2008, 04:06 PM
One thing I have noticed is the machine will ask me if I want to "Resize to Width" or "Load New Board" those are the only options it gives me. How do I avoid this option on a pattern??

Amonaug
12-24-2008, 04:15 PM
One thing I have noticed is the machine will ask me if I want to "Resize to Width" or "Load New Board" those are the only options it gives me. How do I avoid this option on a pattern??

By following Jeff's advice

jcorder
12-24-2008, 04:17 PM
You need to be sure you have figured your design to leave the 7 extra inches in length and be sure you have enough width on your board. If you watch your LCD when it starts the project, it will tell you the width you need if you have had to select auto jig in your designer program when you upload.

jcorder
12-24-2008, 04:18 PM
or......follow Jeff's advice is best LOL

AskBud
12-24-2008, 04:49 PM
When I measure a board to get its dimensions plug those dimensions into the software add my pattern. When I get to the machine it scales my pattern almost in half. IS there somewhere that explains the LCD more in depth. The manual is a terrible resource.
When you measure your board first, remember to subtract 7 inches of length of your project if you are going to "Keep Under Rollers".

The manual speaks of "Adding" 7 inches to your real board (more than your laid out project), which is the opposite of your measuring method.

Both methods work the same. You just have to think it through. Which measuring method am I going to use?
AskBud

mark3
01-22-2009, 09:12 PM
As a "newbie" I have a question about the width too. The extra 7 inches I understand, because to keep it under the rollers it needs 3.5 at each end. Fine. But even if you uploaded drawing takes that into account, why does it then have to scale the width?

I found the first carving I accomplished was scaled down, and it was scaled so that the output was approximately 7/8ths of an inch from the edge. But when I made sure my next project was placed 7/8ths or more from either edge, the carvewright machine decided it still had to scale it down. This time it placed the carving 1.25 inches from the edges. I would think it should be able to carve right up to the edge, as somehow it is able to cut the board to length if you choose that option. Don't know what I'm doing wrong here, hope you can help.

Dan-Woodman
01-22-2009, 09:17 PM
Your designer board is not the same width as the CW is measuring. It must be more accurate. I think you can measure your board first at the machine , but not sure as I have never done that.
later Daniel

liquidguitars
01-22-2009, 09:36 PM
As a "newbie" I have a question about the width too. The extra 7 inches I understand, because to keep it under the rollers it needs 3.5 at each end. Fine. But even if you uploaded drawing takes that into account, why does it then have to scale the width?

if your board is the same as your Designer layout with the added 7" you do not need the "stay under rollers" as you have included it from the start, Just hit no "02" and the carvewright will not mess with your design.

more info@ http://liquidguitars.com/html/carving.html

LG

mtylerfl
01-22-2009, 10:42 PM
As a "newbie" I have a question about the width too. The extra 7 inches I understand, because to keep it under the rollers it needs 3.5 at each end. Fine. But even if you uploaded drawing takes that into account, why does it then have to scale the width?

I found the first carving I accomplished was scaled down, and it was scaled so that the output was approximately 7/8ths of an inch from the edge. But when I made sure my next project was placed 7/8ths or more from either edge, the carvewright machine decided it still had to scale it down. This time it placed the carving 1.25 inches from the edges. I would think it should be able to carve right up to the edge, as somehow it is able to cut the board to length if you choose that option. Don't know what I'm doing wrong here, hope you can help.

Mark,

Simply design your layout at the finished size, then place a board into the machine with the extra 7" length added to the REAL board.

EXAMPLE:
Make your Designer "fake" board just large enough to fit your layout on - do not add the surplus 7" in the Designer layout (this is where people constantly get mixed up). Let's say your project layout just fits on a board .75" thick x 20" Long x 11.25" Wide.

The board you actually put in the machine is 75" thick x 27" Long x 11.25" Wide. Select "Yes" to the "Stay Under Rollers" prompt.

Easy to remember, and if you develop the habit of doing this, all your projects will run smoothly without a hitch and without resizing issues.

liquidguitars
01-23-2009, 12:42 AM
(this is where people constantly get mixed up).


I think mtylerfl's information is getting a little out dated and confusing...

It's better to make designer and the board the same size.. No guess work needed, and the pro's out way to con's
that is unless you can't figure out the difference between "yes" and no" :)






LG

Ike
01-23-2009, 12:51 AM
"quote, It's better to make designer and the board the same size.. No guess work needed, the pro's out ways to con's

I agree with LG, when I ever make a sign and I want it 8" wide and 24" long I design 8" wide and 24" long! Then load a 8" wide board 24" long in my CW and choose not to stay under the rollers and carve the sign!

Never had any problems, I can see needing the rollers for say a 48" plus long board. Even then I don't use the rollers and make sure I enough end supports!

Ike

ChrisAlb
01-23-2009, 09:12 AM
"quote, It's better to make designer and the board the same size.. No guess work needed, the pro's out ways to con's

I agree with LG, when I ever make a sign and I want it 8" wide and 24" long I design 8" wide and 24" long! Then load a 8" wide board 24" long in my CW and choose not to stay under the rollers and carve the sign!

Never had any problems, I can see needing the rollers for say a 48" plus long board. Even then I don't use the rollers and make sure I enough end supports!

Ike

I have to disagree with this one. Making the Designer board what you need for the project and adding 7" to the real board means it doesn't matter whether you answer yes or no to staying under rollers as it will regardless.

That is unless you can't do the math and add 7 to your design board...http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.gif

If you make the design and real board the same, you will always get the "scale" question. If you miss answering the right way, you just screwed up your carve.

liquidguitars
01-23-2009, 10:31 AM
I think it more about layout than if the board scales and to say new users do not know how to pick "yes" or "no" is a stretch. :)

having your layout ID you wood has a lot of advantages in indexing that you will just not get if you do not add the 7 inches in Designer. LHR gives us options.. for now stick to adding the seven or more in Designer know how to push the key pad and all will be right.

regarding 1:1

I think most cabinetmakers when reading blueprints know to add 7" but if the blueprints ask for a 32" long base cabinet you would look for a 32" long board
not a 39" talk about confusing..

Once the new user starts desing sleds its even more inportaint to keep it 1: 1.

LG

ChrisAlb
01-23-2009, 11:49 AM
I think mtylerfl's information is getting a little out dated and confusing...

It's better to make designer and the board the same size.. No guess work needed, and the pro's out way to con's
that is unless you can't figure out the difference between "yes" and no" :)

LG

Yes I agree saying folks can't figure out between yes and no is a stretch for sure.

All I'm saying is by using Designer the way indicated, it wouldn't matter. I've done all kinds of carves on sleds, without sleds, using carrier boards, both under rollers and not. When properly laid out in designer and using a properly set up sled when needed, I've never found any need for "indexing" of any kind so I guess that just confuses me.

Being a cabinet maker, the wood I start with is ALWAYS a little longer than the finished size needed. I've never been able to locate perfectly cut wood (right length, perfectly square ends, etc...) at any lumbar yard. If you have, please give me their contact info.

Point being, if I need a 32" long finished piece, you can bet I'll start with one a couple inches longer so "adding length" is simply standard practice in any woodworking application. If I have a machine that requires more to do the job right, I add it.

Also having drawn blue prints for the better part of my life, I wouldn't draw them on paper larger than needed for the house. Same rule applies for the board in Designer which in effect, is just the paper.

I have many sleds. My most used one is 14.5 wide x 36 long. I've carved pieces as small as 4" x 4" on it. In designer, the board is 4 x 4. I see no need for using a 1:1 ratio between designer and wood.

But that's just me.

ChrisAlb
01-23-2009, 11:53 AM
Just shaking my head on this one. It one thing to disagree, but why do you feel the need to insult somebody? I see that quite often.

That is fine I know you select the board size you want in the designer ie. 8" by 24" then add the 7" to board you are going to carve ie 8" by 31" and stay under the rollers. Then it will resize to 8" by 24" with a 3 1/2' over hang on each side. When I choose not to stay under the roller and insert the board the same size as it was designed ie. 8" by 24" it comes out fine every time.

Making the Designer board what you need for the project and adding 7" to the real board means it doesn't matter whether you answer yes or no to staying under rollers as it will regardless.

So if you add 7" and choose not to stay under the rollers your project will be 7" longer then it needs to be.

Ike

I insulted no one.

That was a joke meant to mimic LG with the "that is unless you can't figure out the difference between "yes" and no" Comment he made.


No, if you choose no it will be exactly as you designed it. If you say yes, it will be exactly as you designed it.


Relax Ike and lighten up a little, Huh?....:rolleyes:

liquidguitars
01-23-2009, 12:13 PM
I think the cool thing is that we have options and new users need explore what works best for them.

I try not to demand that a new user use one system or another but feel the need for new carvers have options and new ideas, I expect the same for all forum members.

For my work I add the 7" or more all the time and it works for me but I need repeatability and in my work for guitar parts.


LG

ChrisAlb
01-23-2009, 12:30 PM
Exactly LG. You spelled it out your way, I spelled it out mine.

I just think "new" users should start out the way the documentation explains and then work their way up from there.

I don't think anyone here is "demanding" a way. But I do think the comment, "I think mtylerfl's information is getting a little out dated and confusing..." is both inaccurate and confusing in itself.

A lot of folks including myself look forward to, and have benefited from Michael's advice as they should because he knows the software, the machine and the making of patterns. I can think of no one on this forum who has contributed more to teaching others the right way to use the CW.

I know you, me and many other experienced users use the CW in, shall we say, unconventional ways at times but to avoid confusion, I think new users should walk before they run.

Anyway, like you said, it's all good and that's the last on the subject for me...LOL

Eagle Hollow
01-23-2009, 12:36 PM
I agree. There IS more than one way to "skin a cat".

Ike
01-23-2009, 12:43 PM
I removed my post, I misread it. I apologize.

Ike

liquidguitars
01-23-2009, 01:04 PM
A lot of folks including myself look forward to, and have benefited from Michael's advice as they should because he knows the software, the machine and the making of patterns. I can think of no one on this forum who has contributed more to teaching others the right way to use the CW.

In no way is this a dig on Michael's work, however I feel the need to counter his layout teaching regardless of how you feel and will continue to do so as new users are worth it.

LG

GrammaPam
01-23-2009, 01:22 PM
I had to chuckle reading through this post. Good dicussion is really what helps people formulate how they feel about a thing. Let's not take ourselves more serious than we should and keep an open mind for another persons way of explaining the same thing. I would personally hate to lose the input from any of of you wonderful people. You are all GREAT!
Happy Carving
G.P.

ChrisAlb
01-23-2009, 01:51 PM
I had to chuckle reading through this post. Good dicussion is really what helps people formulate how they feel about a thing. Let's not take ourselves more serious than we should and keep an open mind for another persons way of explaining the same thing. I would personally hate to lose the input from any of of you wonderful people. You are all GREAT!
Happy Carving
G.P.

Well said G.P. and you're absolutely right on every point...http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon7.gif

I wouldn't worry about loosing anyones input. Speaking for myself only here, I'm way too much of a pigheaded, stubborn old German carpenter to shut up....for too long....LOL

I just love a feisty debate....http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon10.gif

liquidguitars
01-23-2009, 01:55 PM
I just love a feisty debate....

as a wicked Scott I do 2 now back to fret board dots.. :)

all the best,

LG

ChrisAlb
01-23-2009, 02:00 PM
LOL...man, I knew you had at least a little Scotti in you from some of our debates last year...LOL

Back atcha



as a wicked Scott I do 2 now back to fret board dots.. :)

all the best,

LG

Billions
01-24-2009, 02:11 PM
Also, this sort of resizing is now easily introduced with the way the new software version (1.132) addresses a physical board that is narrower than your project file... It stubbornly won't let you proceed until you agree to let it resize, even if you're within a fraction of an inch!

This obviously makes it even more important to take a quick measurement of your wood before you upload your project to the card.

I usually avoid all of this by making my project board slightly less in measurements than the actual wood pieces I'm carving, including the extra 'under rollers' length in the project. Once I get to the machine, I opt NOT to 'cut board to size' when asked by the machine.

liquidguitars
01-24-2009, 02:14 PM
I usually avoid all of this by making my project board slightly less in measurements than the actual wood pieces I'm carving, including the extra 'under rollers' length in the project. Once I get to the machine, I opt NOT to 'cut board to size' when asked by the machine.

(1.132) has increased the reading tolerances. The board sensor readings are very tight now, and soon a new Cal Bet "calibration" setup in the firmware that will let you fine tune the "X" " long end of the board" the quick fix is to make your wood a tad wider now in "Y"

I think LHR will add a new key board prompt in the firmware to let you get around this in the future.

LG