Sled Questions

[amwoodwork]

I have a built a sled that will accomodate a 9x7x3/4 work piece. The sled is made of 1/2" plywood for the base and 3/4 stock for sides and ends. This is for a 9x7 oval project clock.

When I the CW starts is asks for the bits and then will state that the project/board is too thick 1) about 2) continue.

May question is, 1) Should I use a cutline? 2) Should I remove the cutline and select the bit with a depth of 3/4"?

Thanks for your help.

[sweliver]

What version of Designer are you using?

Use a micrometer to check the thickness of your piece to make sure it's actually .75

(my bad - depth setting suggestion removed)

sw

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

Make sure you are using the 1.131 version of the software and that you have set your actual board thickness properly in Designer. (read Tips & Tricks Sept 2008 issue 12 (http://www.carvebuddy.com/learning_center.html))

If you post your mpc, we can take a look at it and see if there are any mistakes that need correcting.

[mtylerfl]

What version of Designer are you using?

Use a micrometer to check the thickness of your piece to make sure it's actually .75

Try setting project depth to 1.25"

sw

NO! Do NOT set the depth to 1.125!

[amwoodwork]

So based upon what I read the TIPS. I should make sure that the board thickness is set to 3/4 and when prompted on CW to select project and I should be okay, CORRECT?

I am using version 1.131

I will post the design tonight.

Thanks

[mtylerfl]

So based upon what I read the TIPS. I should make sure that the board thickness is set to 3/4 and when prompted on CW to select project and I should be okay, CORRECT?

I am using version 1.131

I will post the design tonight.

Thanks

Yes, you set the virtual board thickness to the actual thickness of the real board.

(Of course, since we have not seen your mpc, there is no way for us to tell if your project is laid out properly otherwise.)

[amwoodwork]

Here is the MPC.

Thanks for all your help

[mtylerfl]

Here is the MPC.

Thanks for all your help

Hello amwoodwork,

Nice clock!

Couple questions and a few comments...

1) Is there a purpose behind assigning the 1/2" Roundover to the oval? The reason I ask is that the roundover doesn't seem to do much (either for or against) the design. After the oval is cut out, it would look pretty much the same if there was no roundover at all because the roundover depth is so shallow you can barely see any effect from it anyway.

2) Is there a reason why the board is so small that the roundover goes beyond the board edges? (Perhaps you are cutting this out from a specific fixed-size piece of hardwood??)

3) Unless you have a fixed-size board of expensive material, there is no reason why you couldn't make the board a standard width (9.25" is a nominal 10" size), as well as making the board longer. As such, there would be no particular reason to run the project on a sled either, unless you want to save 7" of wood, I guess. But perhaps there are other valid reasons why you have laid out the project this way that I am yet unaware of. Laid out on a "standard" size piece of lumber, you will need to be sure to have at least 1/2" from the top of the board to allow for a cutpath, and a similar amount (can be a little less) from the bottom of the board. The clock would have plenty of clearance on 1x10 (nominal) stock.

4) The only other issue is the feather around the central Ford logo - I'm sure you can see that the oval is a little rough around the edges (likely due to an imported graphic). Probably can't do anything about that, and nothing a little elbow grease and sandpaper can't clean up after-the-fact, of course!

5) I modified your mpc...first I made the board larger and moved everything to allow spacing between the top and bottom of the board for the cutpath...second, you had a single oval outline assigned to the roundover bit AND as a cutpath - I copied the outline and placed the copy directly over the existing one. Then I removed the cutpath feature from the roundover outline, increased the roundover depth so you could see its effect better, and applied an inset of -0.063 to the roundover outline. Then I made the outline copy the actual cutpath and made a minimum of 4 tabs.

See the modified version of the mpc, below for how I would lay out the project on standard-size lumber...

[amwoodwork]

mtylerfl

1) The only reason that I was using the CW to perform the roundover, was to eliminate second step. I could easily do it on the router table.
2) The only reason I was using 9x7 stock is because I have about twenty pieces leftover from another project that I was trying to use up. Sounds like I should remove the Roundover.
3) I agree with you once I use up my leftover pieces.
4) I have done one without a sled and had to sand that one. No problem I do not mind doing hand sanding.
5) Thanks. I will load the modified version.

Thanks for your help

[mtylerfl]

mtylerfl

1) The only reason that I was using the CW to perform the roundover, was to eliminate second step. I could easily do it on the router table...

Thanks for your help

Hello,

Yes, you could do the roundover either way - via the CarveWright or a router table - the point was that in your CarveWright layout, the roundover was barely visible after the cutout, so the roundover wouldn't really show up very well with how you had it set. (The roundover depth was set too shallow.)

FYI - the reason I made separate outlines (one for the cut path and another for the roundover) is so that you have complete independent control over each one. You had assigned a cut path and the roundover to the same outline, which made it impossible to have control over each function individually.

Also, on the modified mpc, I have the roundover set at a full-depth pass - you can change that to mulitple passes if you wish, by using the Max. Pass function in the Bit Assignment dialog box and set whatever incremental amount you feel comfortable with. In other words, instead of the roundover bit taking a "full bite" in one pass, you can have it make multiple passes, going deeper and deeper with each pass until the full depth is achieved.

Hope that helps!

[SAA3840]

I couldn't just leave well enough alone so I too played with your mpc. All I changed was the settings on the Ford emblem.

[amwoodwork]

Thanks

BTW. I got idea for this clock from a posting on the Gallery forum. Wanted to make sure that I give credit where due.

Thanks

[ajk]

in regard sled. we are going to build a sled. my question is as follows. when using the sled do we have to consider the lips measured for the project?