good laugh on me

[andes]

Created this switch plate for a friend; today I had a chance to carve it. But let me backup just a bit, a couple of weeks ago I purchased two of the new 1/16 cutting bits. Well, guess what, I purchased two and broke two.

The moral of this story is -- be careful how you use these bits, they are very fragile. Learning is painful and costly and beginners like me shouldn't so progress before they become proficient LOL!

[jcorder]

what did you do that caused them to break?

[andes]

Nothing, guess the cut was too deep. It was carving the front of the plate and about 1/2 min of carving they broke. Here's the cover.

[mtylerfl]

Hello Andrea,

Sorry to hear the bits broke. They have gone through "very punishing" testing before they were released, and the word from LHR is that they are "tough little bits".

They have been cutting a lot of 3/16" material, (including cast acrylic) and the bits seem to hold up fine. Single-pass cuts, by the way according to my "inside source"!

My understanding is that the bit depth limit is 1/4". I suppose going beyond that limit might cause breakage. Try multi-pass cuts next time to see if that helps.

Just checking - you weren't trying to cut plywood were you?

I keep thinking of more questions for you...was the project under the rollers at all times? was it run on a sled?...if so, are you sure the 1/4" thick stock was very, very secure? (slightest "shift" will break the bits)

[andes]

Michael,


I was using a piece of red oak, 1/4 thick; used a carrier board. pretty sure the board was secured, it is a two sided piece and carved the back just fine, didn't break until it started carving the front of the plate. I don't believe that my cuts were much deeper the 0.125.

Not sure exactly if I totally understand the concept of how to make it do a single pass verses a multi pass. I could use some quidence of that. could you take a look at the pattern, maybe I missed something.

Thanks

[mtylerfl]

Michael,


I was using a piece of red oak, 1/4 thick; used a carrier board. pretty sure the board was secured, it is a two sided piece and carved the back just fine, didn't break until it started carving the front of the plate. I don't believe that my cuts were much deeper the 0.125.

Not sure exactly if I totally understand the concept of how to make it do a single pass verses a multi pass. I could use some quidence of that. could you take a look at the pattern, maybe I missed something.

Thanks

Hi Andrea,

Check out the Sept. '08 Tips & Tricks for the details on how to do a multi-pass cut.

Also, check the bits to make sure they are securely mounted in the bit holder (set screws tight, bit mounted proper depth, Loc-tite on set screws). Any slippage of the bit itself or if the holder is not snapping in completely will cause breakage, Check your QC for ANY dust at all. Even a thin "talcum powder-like" coat inside can prevent the holder from proper mounting.

Of course, you need to be running the 1.131 software to do multi-pass cuts.

[andes]

Ok, will do that. Man, just when I think I've gotten there (learn the system) I find that there's something I missed LOL. Ok, guess I need to backup and re-read some stuff ;-} Well, when I get some more cash, I'll buy a couple more bits and try again.


Thanks

[Amonaug]

I just looked at your .mpc all your cutpaths are set to use the 1/8" cuting bit not the 1/16" which BTW the 1/8" should do just fine for that .mpc

Only reason to use a 1/16" cutting bit would be for very fine detail cutouts, etc.

Another tip, I think you will find for lightswitches that 1/4" may be a bit too thin, the plates I make are just over 3/8" thick carved from 1/2" stock.

[mtylerfl]

Sorry Andrea,

I haven't had the chance to look at your mpc, so I did not know you had the 1/8" bit assigned to the cut paths. That undoubtedly was the primary reason they broke. The 1/16" setting tells the machine to "adjust" for the thinner bit - speed of motion, etc.

I think the mystery has been solved! Thanks to Kevin!

To reiterate - you must be running 1.131 to use the 1/16" cutting bit and to use multi-pass cutouts if you so desire.

[Dan-Woodman]

In post #5 she says "It didn't break until I started CARVING the front of the plate."
I take this to mean she was carving instead of cutting.
later Daniel

[andes]

Wow, I still have a lot to learn LOL. But that's ok, I've come a long way, but boy does this mistake make me feel really dumb LOL. It’s all good; I just have to get better at this.

Dan,

You are absolutely correct ;-}


Kevin,

Thanks for catching the error, but I do have a question; you don't find the 3/8" plate to be too thick, does it fit flesh with the wall switch itself. Guess I was basing my 1/4" on ones that you find in the stores.

Michael T,

Somehow, I didn’t get the Sept issue, missed for some reason, but will most defiantly go get it and read it.

I am sure glad that this forum exists, and I can always get the help I need, thanks everyone.

[Amonaug]

Well my design is slightly different than your's in that mine has raised carvings which make it thicker. Where the actual switch is it's thinner but may be around 1/4" I guess. They don't sit as close to the wall as the plastic ones but then plastic doesn't tend to warp like wood can and being thicker helps prevent warping.

I have tried my plates on the wall and they fit just fine.

All I can suggest is do a test carve in inexpensive wood and see how it comes out. If 1/4" works then go with it.

[andes]

Kevin, that makes since. I'm going to try today