Just fired up my new machine

[TurtleCove]

ok, I got my new machine unboxed, and set up on my bench.
I took the flex shaft out of the sheeth, and lubed it all up with some molly and put it back in. Got familiar with the carriage, and side supports, and found a 20" long red oak board to put in. Not having loaded the software yet, I was anxious to hear it work, so I squared the end, and put a bevel on the edge. So far, all is well. Gonna create my first project today.

Question:
On the flex shaft, there's a long spring wire, that's tied down with a twist tie. I left that tied. Is that proper?

When you use a new bit for the first time, do you guys peel off the protective plastic from the sharp edges by hand, or do you let your first routing spin that off?

I felt the flex shaft while routing, and it was slightly warm. When do I relube it?...when it feels hot to the touch?

-dirk
www.thinboards.com

[Kenm810]

dirk,

The tie wrap is for shipping only, remove it to prevent a hot spot on your flex-Shaft.
I use a loose wrap of electricians vinyl tape to hold the F-S in place. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon14.gif

Peel off the protective plastic -- it might mess something in the machine when it flies off. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon13.gif

Warm is normal -- when the F-S is hot to the touch, it's time to relube.

[mtylerfl]

Dirk,

Just want to caution you...do not leave too much lube on the flexshaft.
Too much lube will destroy the bearings and could get into the cut motor innards.

When I lubed mine, I laid out newspaper, sprayed them liberally and let them sit in the puddle for about 20-30 minutes. I then wiped them off and hung them to drip for about another hour, then wiped again before re-installing. That was several months ago (almost TWO years ago on one machine) and I've never had to lube them again so far.

[Kenm810]

Dirk,
Michael T is spot on,
Wipe off any excess, than hang it up to drip dry for an hour or two, than wipe it down again with lint free toweling or rag, and reinstall it in the Machine.
Than after both the first and second carving I remove the Flex-shaft form the Top Hat and swab out any Molly that might be accumulating there.
I don’t want to take the chance of damaging the bearings.
Only then with checking the flex-shaft for heat, I know I’m good for another 20, 40, or more hours of carving.

[Major_A]

ok, I got my new machine unboxed, and set up on my bench.
I took the flex shaft out of the sheeth, and lubed it all up with some molly and put it back in. Got familiar with the carriage, and side supports, and found a 20" long red oak board to put in. Not having loaded the software yet, I was anxious to hear it work, so I squared the end, and put a bevel on the edge. So far, all is well. Gonna create my first project today.
Start slow, put your name on a piece of scrap with a shell. And as others have said too much lube on that flexshaft is a bad thing.

Question:

On the flex shaft, there's a long spring wire, that's tied down with a twist tie. I left that tied. Is that proper?
Leave it attached. The twist tie holds the "support" wire against the flexshaft. That little u-shaped piece of wire is there to avoid the flexshaft from kinking.


When you use a new bit for the first time, do you guys peel off the protective plastic from the sharp edges by hand, or do you let your first routing spin that off?
Take off the wax. When the machine homes with that wax on the bit you are giving the machine inconsistent measurements. The resulting carve will be at a completely wrong depth.

I felt the flex shaft while routing, and it was slightly warm. When do I relube it?...when it feels hot to the touch?
Periodically check the flexshaft for overheating. Place your palm on the flexshaft where the twist tie is located. If the shaft is so hot that you can not physically hold your had there then it's time to relube.

[Ike]

Be careful with a 20 foot board.... Have many side supports and all adjusted to the right height. The problem is Board WEIGHT.... With a 20 foot board the machine for example if you cut text with a V60 or V90 bit. The Letters require movement in the X Direction or the Sand Paper Belt direction. It is only a small motor like the Z Motor and the Y Motor but with extra gears that you will most likely become familiar with very soon. The X Gears can strip very easily. I had envisioned cutting V Text in the side of OAK boards for Dump Trucks with names and logos but found the weight of a 2 x 12 OAK to be TOO heavy for the machine. A better fit for a heavy wood project like the oak is a Shop Bot where the wood is stuck to the table and the head does all the moving.... But we have CarveWright's and want to use them.

My recommendation is to use a shorter board if your project will allow and stay away from having the machine doing things like End Cutting as you are just eating up your 200 hour warranty..... When I was making Wine and Quilt rack sides, I let the machine do all the hard work, even let it cut the square holes for the wine rails. Then I used a template and my router table and guide to cut the parameter of the wine rack saving 1 hour of warranty with each side.

So use your machine to do the things that are most cost effective.

Search "X Gear" or "Anatomy of the X Drive" when you get a chance as I bet you will be needing help in that area soon.

Search for "sand paper belt replacement" too as you should have spare belts on hand as long stock can rip them too.

Welcome and Good Luck,

AL





Hey Chief, the second thing to go is the memory, usually I say I can't remember the first!!! But your eyes must be the first!!!

The op typed he used a 20" board not a 20' remember " = inches ' = feet!!

Could not resist my friend!! WWAD!


Ike

[mtylerfl]

Right! When I read AL's post I thought, "What 20 foot board?"

I was beginning to think MY memory had gone south, so I scrolled up to see if I missed something!;)

Anyway, the advice AL gave for large projects is sound and well-advised. So, if anyone ever does want to try a project similar that, heed AL's instruction!

[TurtleCove]

Dirk,

Just want to caution you...do not leave too much lube on the flexshaft.
Too much lube will destroy the bearings and could get into the cut motor innards.

When I lubed mine, I laid out newspaper, sprayed them liberally and let them sit in the puddle for about 20-30 minutes. I then wiped them off and hung them to drip for about another hour, then wiped again before re-installing. That was several months ago (almost TWO years ago on one machine) and I've never had to lube them again so far.

My lube is like grease...not a spray.

[TurtleCove]

Hmmmm, one reply said to remove the twist tie...another said to leave it...hmmmmm.

[Kenm810]

A quote form a fellow forum member;
When i first got my machine i didnt remove the little twist tie that connected the flex cable to the "U" shaped support and it produced a very hot spot on the cable.
I have actually read another post where someone said it melted the plastic off the wire of the twist tie...

Another Quote from from one of our Moderator: The twist tie IS supposed to be removed.
There have been instances of the outer cable burning through at that point with the twist tie on.
Do what you will, but be forewarned.

Just one more: Well . . . now that I have all this wonderful information . . . I just got my CompuCarve, and I did not remove the twist and melted the flex cable after about an hour and a half of running time. I mean to tell you that it almost caught on fire. The black cover was running down the side of the shaft and there was smoke everywhere!
_________________

You can judge for yourself -- do a search on "tie wraps" and "twist ties" or "Melted"
and you'll see why I replaced mine with a loose wrap of black vinyl tape. Which holds the Flex- Cable in the guide wire support loop very nicely.

[Amonaug]

Just my 2 cents, I never took it off and didn't have any problems. Sent it to LHR for repairs and they removed it. I put another back on, loose enough where it won't bind but tight enough where it won't move. I mean they have the wire taped to the flexshaft a little lower than where the twist tie was. Unless the twist tie is so tight on the flexshaft to pinch it I don't see how it can cause a hotspot. In truth my shaft usually get warm just below and above where the tape is which is the tightest part of the bend which would make sense.

You milage may vary.

[fwharris]

I melted my first flex shaft while having the twist tie attached to the shaft and support wire. Melted right at the point it was attached to the flex shaft at about 45 min. into the carve.

I put the causes down to 2 things. Twist tie attached tightly to the flex shaft, not allowing the shaft to "flex" normally and poor flex shaft lube, only had around 4 hours carve time (several short carves and the last one was a 1.5 hr carve). Assumed that the machine was well lubed by manufacturer.

When I talked to tech support they advised to remove all of the twist ties as they are for shipping purposes only. Also that there was a new lube procedure post on the forum. That is how I learned about this place and what all of the "experienced carvers" had already run into as well as what not to do and what to do.

Since then I do not have anything attached to the flex shaft. See no sense in it and owners manual does not call for it.

[Major_A]

My lube is like grease...not a spray.

Here is what they recommend, I heard this while attending the training class in the Houston area.
Gunk Liquid Wrench - Chain Lube with Moly (http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_33566_-1______14297|14313|33566?listingPage=true&Special=false)

[HelpBot3000]

Check and make sure that the lube you are using on the flexshaft is WITH MOLY. Some recommend the Chain Lube With Moly, others have used alternative lubricants. A quick search will show you some of these alternatives. Just remember, whichever you choose, make sure it is WITH MOLY

[Kenm810]

HelpBot3000,

Welcome HB3K to the forum, as you can see, some of us
need all the help we can get.
I for one welcome and look forward to your input

Thanks for Signing on

[Fremont Paul]

Since I am retired and am not in a rush to get my carvings done, I let the machine carve for about 15 minutes and lift the cover and go inside for 15 minutes or so. I never let the shaft get too hot. When the timer goes off, I go back into the garage and close the cover for another 15 or so. Takes longer but those tales of horror about melting flex shafts and fires scared me into approching the carvings the way that I do.

I hope I didn't make too many people laugh!
Paul Bleignier

[Kenm810]

Hi Paul,
There’s nothing wrong with being cautious. It’s a characterist more of us should practice when learning how to operate any new machine.
That being said, I do run my carver for long stretches without stopping it or opening the lid.
I also keep a non–contact Infrared Thermometer next to my carver when ever it’s running.
Thankfully the Flex-Shaft and QC Chuck’s temperatures have not risen above 20 Degree of room temperature.
But I do check it just the same. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/icons/icon14.gif