Question about the drill function

[Lin]

Never having used the drill function before.....if I use it at a depth of .060 and a diameter of .125 what bit does it use to drill with? I don't see an option to choose. All I'm after with what I'm doing is to make a small hole that I will use to center a larger bit with on a drill press. Just really need to know what bit it uses to drill with.
Thanks,
Lin

[dcurrysr]

Lin,
I would use the 1/8" cutting bit.
Dave

[Ron Baird]

When you use the drill feature it automatically selects the 1/8" cutting bit and will call for it in the machine. This bit drills all sizesof holes, the only drawback is 1/8" is the smallest you and drill with it. If I want a smaller hole to start a small screw in or just mark a location I just put the carving bit in instead of the cutting bit and have it drill a shallow hole. The deeper you go with the carving bit the larger the hole of course.

[Lin]

I figured out what it will use...lol...when I first clicked on the drill it gave the option and I picked the 1/8" at that time...from then on I had just copied and pasted all the other holes ......50 of them for the 50 states. By the tiime I got them placed on the board using the snap to grids and attachments...I had forgotten about what I had told it on that first drilled hole....lol
Guess I'm showing my age...
Lin

[Dan-Woodman]

Lin
The nice thing about using the cw to drill holes is you can drill fractional sized holes that will fit closer that a drill bit for the quarter size.
later Daniel

[rengaw]

Hmmmm...
In a year now I've only put4 Hrs. on my machine because it won't make round holes... They're all oblong. Carvewright still hasn't come up with a fix. Are your holes round?

Interested to know...
Thanks!

rengaw

[Jeff_Birt]

What size holes? What firmware version?

[Lin]

I didn't use the CW to make round holes...just the starter holes for centering a bit on my drill press..(the software is great for making sure I put the holes where I want them and evenly spaced apart) So I can't tell you if my machine will make a round hole. Anything I can do on other amchines in my little shop I use those machines instead of the CW. They are generally much faster and I use the CW for just a carving.
Lin

[rengaw]

Jeff,

I started with 120 and have had the same results with all versions through 131. David is looking into it again, but the projects the machine was purchased to do require round holes for dowel locations etc.
I'm hoping he'll come up with a fix.

[Amonaug]

Is everyone making sure that thier bits are perfectly centered in the holder? You can insert the bit into the qc and using a verticle line as reference spin the QC (easier done with the flexshaft disconnected) and look for any wobble at the tip of the bit. I found one of my bits had a wobble to it and if it were used to try and drill hole it would have made ovals instead of circles.

[rengaw]

Generally a "cocked" bit would just create a larger round hole, but not oblong, just due to the geometry of the runout at the end of the bit.

[Amonaug]

Generally a "cocked" bit would just create a larger round hole, but not oblong, just due to the geometry of the runout at the end of the bit.

Except in the case of a 1/8" hole in which the CW just plunges the bit straight down.

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

I didn't seem to have any problem drilling round holes for my Decorative Birdhouse Project. The machine drills over 250 (256 if I recall) holes for the dowels.

The project was designed using Designer version 1.20.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Hmmmm...
In a year now I've only put4 Hrs. on my machine because it won't make round holes... They're all oblong. Carvewright still hasn't come up with a fix. Are your holes round?

Interested to know...
Thanks!

rengaw

It's time to fix the whole hole problem.... We have the technology......

It's a lot more FUN too, playing with the machine with Christmas on the way....

First thing is run this project I posted. It's just using the 1/8 inch cutting bit to make a few circles and squares. This will tell me the condition of your machine before we start tinkering.... We will call this a Tech Assist from Digitalwoodshop.

I put the project on a standard 1 x 12 pine board that was .77 thick.

You can change the size of the board to what ever you have on hand.

After cutting the .mpc let us know what the board looks like, a picture would be great.

Next I am hoping you have the 3/8 bit used for calibration? I would like you to run the calibration. I have never done in on any of my machines but I am thinking that your machine has bad data loaded in the memory spots that have the encoder to linear position data.

Your machine needs this number that is the conversion factor from encoder to linear distance traveled. So for example 4 pulses might equal 1/16 inch for the Y and Z Encoder. Since the X had a drive motor and a X Gear Box to assist in moving the heavy board and uses the Brass Roller Encoder to measure board movement in the X direction.

If you complete the calibration it will load new numbers in that conversion location in memory. Hopefully that will fix your problem.

The condition of the Brass Roller is important too, the O Ring should be good.

Cranking the head down TOO tight can cause the X to drag or hesitate and cause the problem too. The bathroom scale test is good to run if the calibration does not help.

I am hoping you can solve this problem.

Good Luck,

AL

I placed a 4 inch square on the end of the board. I use "Place on End" and always use this method. It keeps 4 inches under the roller and I use a longer than needed board for the end. As for the big pile of 4 inch cut off pieces..... I have a sled next door in my machine making Christmas ornaments from the 4 inch pieces

[Ron Baird]

A wobble in the bit would still give you a round hole but larger than what you call for. An oval hole is most likely an X drive problem. Either too much head pressure or too little could cause it. also too much backlash in the X drive gear cluster could cause the holes to be wider than long. Also your machine may need to be calibrated.

[Rocky]

Hmmmm...
In a year now I've only put4 Hrs. on my machine because it won't make round holes... They're all oblong. Carvewright still hasn't come up with a fix. Are your holes round?

Interested to know...
Thanks!

rengaw


I feel your pain. I've tried several times to drill 1/8" holes and they always come out oblong. I've made a few posts; the folks have tried to help, but no solution yet. I wanted to make a cribbage board, but I gave up. Hopefully, someday, LHR will solve the problem.

[pkunk]

Listen to Al, folks! It's your machine & it's fixable. I drill perfect 1/4" holes with mine all the time in cabinet sides & have regular orders for backgammon tournement scoreboards that take the 1/8" pins.

[Jeff_Birt]

You will never get perfectly round holes the same diameter as an flat end mill ( the 1/8" cutter is such an end mill ). It's flat on the bottom an tends to (wander) wobble just a bit as it starts to penetrate the wood. Now, take a look at a regular drill bit. It's pointed on the end which helps reduce the wandering ( you can still get wandering on very large drill bits without a pilot hole.)

Typically trying to drill a hole the same diameter as a flat end will results in a hole that is more oblong on the top of the board and closer to round on the bottom. That is just how an flat end mill works. A ball end mill would reduce the problem. If you drill holes just a bit bigger then 1/8" you'll be amazed how much better they are.

[Rocky]

You will never get perfectly round holes the same diameter as an flat end mill ( the 1/8" cutter is such an end mill ). It's flat on the bottom an tends to (wander) wobble just a bit as it starts to penetrate the wood. Now, take a look at a regular drill bit. It's pointed on the end which helps reduce the wandering ( you can still get wandering on very large drill bits without a pilot hole.)

Typically trying to drill a hole the same diameter as a flat end will results in a hole that is more oblong on the top of the board and closer to round on the bottom. That is just how an flat end mill works. A ball end mill would reduce the problem. If you drill holes just a bit bigger then 1/8" you'll be amazed how much better they are.


If one just wants to drill 1/8" holes, what about using a regular brad point drill bit?

[liquidguitars]

Next I am hoping you have the 3/8 bit used for calibration? I would like you to run the calibration. I have never done in on any of my machines

Good info.. Al, wow I would think you would have.

I run the calibration 3 or 4 times a year..

a. when drilling holes get out of round
b. when changing sandpaper belts
c. changeing Z packs
d. just for fun.. err, repalceing QC
c. when i need CW 1 and CW 2 cutting the same.

After you tune the unit you will be fine, I use the CW to cut fret dots for inlays and the fit is tight and right.


LG

[mtylerfl]

Al, wow I would think you would have.

I run the calibration 3 or 4 times a year..

a. when drilling holes get out of round
b. when changing sandpaper belts
c. changeing Z packs
d. just for fun.. err, repalceing QC

LG

Believe it or not, I've never calibrated my two machines either.

Ya know the saying, if it ain't broke...

[liquidguitars]

I first ran the calibration option when i had measurement differences between my two machines. the calibrate of the two fixed the prob and now are in tandom.

LG