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jimbu
09-25-2008, 04:00 PM
I am attempting to carve the sample pattern Winds grill which is a "carve thru pattern calling for a 1/2" thick board. I carved what I thought was a 1/2" board only to discover it was a 1/16 thicker so it did not carve all the way thru. How in designer can I get the bit to cut completley thru the patterm?
Jimbu

jimbu
09-25-2008, 04:31 PM
Yes I told designer the board was 1/2" thick, however as I stated the board is actually 1/16 of an inch thicker then 1/2". What I need is a way to get the bit to cut deeper then it is now cutting. I have tried to change the board thickness but that does not seem to help.
Jim

cnsranch
09-25-2008, 05:00 PM
Jim -

I pulled up that project (Ike, you may want to do the same - it's in c: program files/carvewright/samples) I believe I see a couple of problems with the project in the way it's designed.

The board is set to .5", and all the patterns are set to carve at .5" - that's why when you look at the project in Designer, you can see the areas that are carved away. If you set the board thickness to anything thicker that .5", those areas are no longer gone - there's board left, just like the one you carved.

The correct way to design a project is to set all your patterns on the virtual board, then outline them, and then apply a cut path to the patterns. Reverse the path, hide the cut-out, and you would then see what you originally saw. What happens, then, is that regardless of the thickness of your board (so long as the patterns aren't set to carve deeper than the board's thickness), they're carved, then you change your bit, and CUT away what you don't want.

Why the sample was designed the way it was is beyond me. The way it was designed basically makes the 1/16" carving bit do ALL the work, vs carving the patterns only, then using the 1/8" cutting bit to cut away what you don't want (hopefully I haven't offended whoever originally designed the project).

Unless I'm all wet, the project should really be re-designed before someone throws a shoe.

Last point - when I opened the project, I got a warning that the carvings were set too deep, and that Designer would heighten those carves. That was due to the way it was designed - patterns aren't supposed to go thru the board.

Amonaug
09-25-2008, 05:04 PM
Are you going to recarve a new board or the same board?

If it's a new board measure the thickness first and then in designer set the board thickness to the real board. Then set all the pattern depths to that thickness and maybe a tad more.

If you recarve the board you already carved then do the above and pray it lines up exactly :) It should but I have had it be off slightly before.

If you use outline patterns and then cutpaths it may not be able to cut out the smaller areas since the cutting bit is 1/8". But you could try it and then delete everything but the cutpaths and put the board that you already carved in and cut out the peices. It'd be faster than recarving the whole thing but it may not come out right.

Those are your options the way I see it.

supershingler
09-25-2008, 05:20 PM
i guess if it was mine i would just take it over the the surfacer and plane off the back unless you dont have a flat surface anywhere on the face side

just a thought so you dont have to start over

kendall

Digitalwoodshop
09-25-2008, 05:50 PM
I carved some of my Bears like that with carve only no cut path. To finish the cut I just went over the back with my orbital sander along the edge and finished them that way.

AL

mtylerfl
09-25-2008, 06:08 PM
Jim -

I pulled up that project (Ike, you may want to do the same - it's in c: program files/carvewright/samples) I believe I see a couple of problems with the project in the way it's designed.

The board is set to .5", and all the patterns are set to carve at .5" - that's why when you look at the project in Designer, you can see the areas that are carved away. If you set the board thickness to anything thicker that .5", those areas are no longer gone - there's board left, just like the one you carved.

The correct way to design a project is to set all your patterns on the virtual board, then outline them, and then apply a cut path to the patterns. Reverse the path, hide the cut-out, and you would then see what you originally saw. What happens, then, is that regardless of the thickness of your board (so long as the patterns aren't set to carve deeper than the board's thickness), they're carved, then you change your bit, and CUT away what you don't want.

Why the sample was designed the way it was is beyond me. The way it was designed basically makes the 1/16" carving bit do ALL the work, vs carving the patterns only, then using the 1/8" cutting bit to cut away what you don't want (hopefully I haven't offended whoever originally designed the project).

Unless I'm all wet, the project should really be re-designed before someone throws a shoe.

Last point - when I opened the project, I got a warning that the carvings were set too deep, and that Designer would heighten those carves. That was due to the way it was designed - patterns aren't supposed to go thru the board.

Sorry - You're all wet!:):):)

The design is indeed correctly done - and yes, the 1/16" bit does all the work in a typical pierced carving such as this with areas that are too close to each other for a cut path function to be able to work properly. There is just no other way to do a pierced carving of this kind - you have to use carve regions in a case like this and let the 1/16" bit route all the regions out.

As far as Jim's problem -there is a very easy solution. Since his board is 1/16" thicker than 1/2", all he needs to do is set all the carve regions to his board's actual thickness - i.e. 0.563" (actually, it is much better to set the regions a little deeper - you can go another 1/16 of an inch, no problemo - i.e. 0.625).

The project will run "peachy-keen" and I think you'll enjoy the result.

Dan-Woodman
09-25-2008, 09:11 PM
What about using the new update 1.131 and a 1/16" bit they have added to the cutpath?
later Daniel

mtylerfl
09-25-2008, 09:17 PM
What about using the new update 1.131 and a 1/16" bit they have added to the cutpath?
later Daniel

With a 1/16" straight bit, that's doable.

Amonaug
09-26-2008, 01:29 AM
Another option is to add a rectangle carved region big enough to cover all the patterns and set the depth to .0625. This will make the patterns a tad bit thicker.

jimbu
09-27-2008, 07:05 PM
Well after failing all that was suggested I put it in the planer (extremly thin cuts). It was a disaster after the second pass and was destroyed!
Cut more wood planed a little under 1/2"and it came out great!
This was the 1st project after getting the machine back from Carvewright.
Not real happy with the repairs! The front out tray fell off on one side and the next project I started the board sensor fell off. Now I am getting a "check back rollar stuck" error message and can not get past that problem. Any suggestions??
The error message comes up as the board is at the end of the forward measure movement. Both sandpaper rollars are moving.
Jimbu

Jeff_Birt
09-28-2008, 09:06 AM
Mostly I have little idea of what this first part of your message means:



Well after failing all that was suggested I put it in the planer (extremly thin cuts). It was a disaster after the second pass and was destroyed!
Cut more wood planed a little under 1/2"and it came out great!


I did notice that you planed some wood under 1/2" is that what your trying to carve on. The machine requires the stock to be at least 1/2" thick (as mentioned in the users manual).



Not real happy with the repairs! The front out tray fell off on one side and the next project I started the board sensor fell off. Now I am getting a "check back rollar stuck" error message


UPS has a history of really banging these machines up in shipment. It's a good idea to go over a newly received machine with a fine tooth comb. I would suspect that the out feed tray was jiggled out of place in shipping. The board sensor may have been over tightened in the repair center. I would suggest calling carvewright and talking with them about this.

jimbu
09-30-2008, 06:18 PM
After sending in my Carvewright and getting it back it is still a nightmare. After correcting all the problems you gus have helped me with I thought I was in good shape. WRONG!! The router started to bury the bit into the wood at the start of the "carving cycle" and would make a ratchet sound. I called support and after dismantleing the machine for the upteenth time the tech consulted with his supervisor and they both agreed I needed a new "Z" bundle! Just before I sent it in for repair I had installed a new "Z" bundle. Took me over 5 hours and now I am going to have to do it again. I complained to the tech and told him it should be done on Carvewright's dime. He was very indigdent and told me "after all we are not charging you for the part!
I am not a happy camper!!
jimbu

jimbu
09-30-2008, 06:29 PM
I purchased the pattern "Neo Classical" keepsake box from the pattern store and can not make any sense of there materials list. Nor do the board sizes in designer make any sense compared to the materials list.
The lid shows as 13 1/2"X10 1/2".
The the long side measurement is 26" long and the short side shows 20" long.
If the lid measurment is correct how can the sides and the front and back be correct? I know about adding the 7" but nothing makes sense to this 72 year old brain!
jimbu

liquidguitars
09-30-2008, 07:09 PM
Just before I sent it in for repair I had installed a new "Z" bundle. Took me over 5 hours and now I am going to have to do it again.

This time it should only take a 15 min to swap out a Z pack after you have done it once that is...

Are you running clean power to the unit?

LG

Amonaug
09-30-2008, 09:11 PM
I purchased the pattern "Neo Classical" keepsake box from the pattern store and can not make any sense of there materials list. Nor do the board sizes in designer make any sense compared to the materials list.
The lid shows as 13 1/2"X10 1/2".
The the long side measurement is 26" long and the short side shows 20" long.
If the lid measurment is correct how can the sides and the front and back be correct? I know about adding the 7" but nothing makes sense to this 72 year old brain!
jimbu

The long side and short side are carved as 1 carving then you cut it in half to get 2 sides. It should come with a .pdf file with how it was done and how to put it together.

BTW not sure what this had to do with the subject of cutting deeper. Perhaps posted in the wrong place?