help on something that should be simple

[skeeterman]

got a message "carvings in this project are aranged in a way that may interfere with machines mechanics, requiring a manual or automatic jig specificly: *wide cuts across the (width) of the board may interfere with compression rollers.
You may chose to ignore the condition (which may cause incorrect behavior of machine) manualy jig or allow the machine to automaticly jig by leaving extra board space around the project during cuts
do not know how to post mpc
my board is long enough ( added extra 7 " on length) the width of board is 2.5" and i am carving a 2" pattern centering on width.
any help would be appreciated.
Steve

[Kenm810]

Steve,

If you can place your project on a Sled the length of your board,
with side rails 1/2" wide and the height of your board, or withjust the rails
by them selves, you should be able to go ahead with your carving.
ISSUE 7 April 2008 – Carving Jigs – Carrier Boards, Sleds and Rails (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Apr08.pdf)

[Amonaug]

You usually want to leave at least 1/2" on each side of the width of the pattern, this insures the rollers have something to ride on and the cut throughs don't hit the brass roller.

Ken posted ways to use sleds and rails to "add" extra wood to your board.

[mtylerfl]

got a message "carvings in this project are aranged in a way that may interfere with machines mechanics, requiring a manual or automatic jig specificly: *wide cuts across the (width) of the board may interfere with compression rollers.
You may chose to ignore the condition (which may cause incorrect behavior of machine) manualy jig or allow the machine to automaticly jig by leaving extra board space around the project during cuts
do not know how to post mpc
my board is long enough ( added extra 7 " on length) the width of board is 2.5" and i am carving a 2" pattern centering on width.
any help would be appreciated.
Steve

Hey Steve,

On page 1 of the Dec '07 Tips & Tricks, it addresses the "why's" of that message and when it is safe to click "Ignore".

Another Tip: if you layout your projects in Designer so they just barely fit on your "fake" board (like I do) you will get that "false" message fairly consistently when you upload to the memory card. You can click "Ignore" as long as you don't have any cut paths with 1/2" of the top of the board, and if you follow the 7" rule for the actual board you put in the machine.

The reason the warning message comes up is, the software has no way of knowing if you are following "the rules", so it errs on the safe side and displays the message "just in case" you don't know what you're doing!

You can download the free Tips & Tricks by clicking the link below my signature.

[skeeterman]

i read the tips and it did say this message would apear if i did not have the 7" on lenght and i do have the 7, my question is on the width, i realy dont want to have to make a sled for this project if i can get away from it.
when you say cut path you are refering to cutting thru the whole thickness of wood? I am leaving 1/4" at top of wood and 1/4"at bottom of wood not carved(carving in between) Iam NOT cutting thru wood.
thanks for the response
steve

[mtylerfl]

i read the tips and it did say this message would apear if i did not have the 7" on lenght and i do have the 7, my question is on the width, i realy dont want to have to make a sled for this project if i can get away from it.
when you say cut path you are refering to cutting thru the whole thickness of wood? I am leaving 1/4" at top of wood and 1/4"at bottom of wood not carved(carving in between) Iam NOT cutting thru wood.
thanks for the response
steve

Hi Steve,

Since you are not cutting through the board, and only carving, you should be fine.

If we could see your mpc, we could verify that for you. You can attach it for us by using the "Manage Attachments" option when you post a message.

(Sorry you misunderstood why the warning message appears - if you re-read that again, you'll see it did not say it would appear if you didn't have the extra 7".)

[skeeterman]

this is just a sim15267ple project I hope this works sending it.

[Digitalwoodshop]

You usually want to leave at least 1/2" on each side of the width of the pattern, this insures the rollers have something to ride on and the cut throughs don't hit the brass roller.

Ken posted ways to use sleds and rails to "add" extra wood to your board.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just a slight correction to this post.... The machine is smart and will not cut through the brass roller doing a cut path. I do max width ovals all the time with a 11.25 board and it leaves a extra long tab over the brass roller.

AL

[mtylerfl]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just a slight correction to this post.... The machine is smart and will not cut through the brass roller doing a cut path. I do max width ovals all the time with a 11.25 board and it leaves a extra long tab over the brass roller.

AL

Thanks, AL. I did not know that and have never observed that myself. I always leave at least 1/2" down from the top of the board for a cut path so maybe that's why I've not seen that.

So if I left only, say, an 1/4" or less at the top of the board, you're saying the machine will automatically compensate for "my mistake" and leave that extra long tab over the brass sensor area?

[skeeterman]

is the project ok to go as is, or do i need to change anything? thank for everyones help , this group of people(carvers) on here are the best
Steve

[LollyWood]

Hey Skeet,

I have done projects simular to yours. (not including the 7" end rule) What I do is get a piece of 3/4" MDF. Cut 2 pieces to match the height and length of the project. Mask them to the widths to give the machine an extra 1.5" to measure width wise. And tell it to center on width. This makes it possible to carve some pretty thin side walls. Just my 2 Cs. Hope it helps.

[Router-Jim]

is the project ok to go as is, or do i need to change anything? thank for everyones help , this group of people(carvers) on here are the best
Steve


I've looked at your mpc and do to the fact that you are leaving an extra 3 1/2"s on each end, you should not have any problem with it.


Jim

[cnsranch]

I get that message occasionaly, when I'm sure I have at least 1/2" on the board edges, I choose to ignore the message. do a search, you'll fing some threads on the subject.

[mtylerfl]

Skeeter,

I think you'll be fine too, even though the carve regions are pretty deep. Let us know how you make out.

Now, I wanted to mention something else "just in case"...the dimensions of your carve regions are the same as for some business cards. I don't know if that's what this is for, but be aware that the carve region will taper somewhat (about 3 degrees I think) due to the taper of the carving bit...that could throw off your dimensions.

You might want to carve ONE of those and check to see if you need to make any adjustments to the actual dimensions before commiting to carving the whole thing and having to do it all over. Just a heads-up in case the dimensions are critical for the intended use.

[skeeterman]

Thanks everybody for your help,it is greatly appreciated.
Steve

[weezimp]

I'm trying to clarify the need for 1/2" clearance at the top of a design when using cut path, as opposed to having a cut path that runs from top to bottom, the full height of the board. The Dec07 Tips PDF says the 1/2 is needed to avoid the cutting bit hitting anything. However, in preparing for a project I am working on, I used the machine's cross cut feature to size my board, and obviously the cutting bit runs from the bottom (far side) of the board to the top (near side) and the bit doesn't hit anything.

So if I want to tell the software to cut a path across the board like that (my path will be angled a bit, not straight as in a cross cut), why should I be concerned about leaving 1/2" at the top to protect the bit?

I'm not worried about the left and right sides since I have left 1/2" in the designer on each side, and I am using a real board at least 7" longer than I have told the designer, and using stay under rollers.

[AskBud]

As I read the PDF, it is not about hitting anything.
What the 1/2" is needed for, is the sensor wheel that is under the board. You can not have a gap appear, in the board, or the unit will abort. That edge may be cut prior to continuing to some other portion in the opposite direction (Example: an "S" curve connected to that top edge).
Here is the section I think you read:
2) If a project has a cutpath very close to
the ends of the "virtual" Designer board,
you will get a false error message, warning
you about possible interference with the
aux roller and asking if you want to
Manual Jig or Auto-Jig when you are
uploading the project to your memory
card. You should click "Ignore" and DO
NOT select Manual nor Auto-Jig. A
minimum 1/2" clearance on the top of the
board is the only area you need clearance
on for a cutpath. You do NOT need any
cutpath clearance at the bottom or sides of
the board at all. The bit cannot hit anything
at those edges when performing a cutout,
so you are perfectly safe. This assumes
your actual board will have the extra 7"
length and that you select "center on
length" when you do the project setup at
the machine. Here's what the "false error"
message looks like...(Picture here)

[ChrisAlb]

I routinely cut all the way across the board. The CW knows enough not to cut all the way through at the brass roller side until it's 3/8 away from the edge. You'll have to finish the through cut there when it's done.

Never had a problem.

[weezimp]

Ah. I see. Well, while I was waiting to see if I would get a reply, I had started a test carve of the project in question. It is an octagonal picture frame, and the reason I wanted to cut path top to bottom was to use the full width of common 1x12 stock. What happened was that the machine simply omitted the two cuts that went top to bottom in the design. I suppose to finish the final project I will have to do those manually.

I've attached the project, if anyone is interested. I've omitted the personalization text that went into the other 6 "trays". The paths that do not get cut on the machine are Lside and Rside.