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Technicow
08-06-2008, 11:00 PM
I've had my carvewright for 2 weeks now and personally think it is a tremendous piece of robotics. Like any high end device, there will be never ending refining of various parts.

I got hit by the "Clean Sensor" error this past weekend. After checking the forums here I checked the options-7, and saw a never ending zero return from the board sensor. Again, after reading posts on this it became apparent that emitters and/or detector had separated from the PCB in the sensor unit.

I have a replacement on it's way (I have only positive things to say about any calls or emails with carvewright, their support for their customers is top notch. It reminds me of how companies used to treat folks.).

I chose to pay the $5 core and keep the busted unit to see if I can determine a solution. My day job is making devices for the military which goes out in the field. Generally the stuff needs to be pretty rugged and everything-proof.

Through observation, I've seen what I suspect as the achilles heal on this component. The PCB is glued to the plastic enclosure. The emitters are on the "other side" of the rigid plastic (those who have looked know what I mean here). The issue is that vibration loosens and breaks the glue holding the PCB in place. Once that glue is not holding, the PCB gets shaken and it "worries" the leads for the emmiters & detector. They wind up giving way.

The solution I've devised is to fix the breaks in the connections. Then stiffening the emitters & detectors to the PCB. Afterwards, I have the PCB assembly operate as though on a "shock absorber" within the plastic enclosure. The "wall" between emitters / detectors is removed (dremel with a cutting wheel).

So far, I've disassembled the unit and resoldered all broken connections. I've put a light pipe onto the detector, and have encased the detector & light pipe in shrink tubing. The shrink tubing is about 1/32 to 1/16 inch below the emitters (to avoid overspill of light and triggering false positives). I then placed this assembly in the C & C machine and checked light levels with wood / paper / nothing etc... Everything checks out value wise (A/D is reporting valid values).

I've now encased the PCB assembly in Silicone and put it into the modified plastic housing. It is drying tonight. Tommorow (or Friday at th latest) I'll install it and test it. If all goes well, the emitters & detector will move with the PCB and not hit anything thus negating the erosion issue (in otherwords it may be a fix). If not...then I'm out 5 bucks but gave it a shot!

If it works, I'll post up a how to if anyone is interested and will gladly share this with carvewright if it looks like an avenue which may help in this part.

Other then all of that, great machine. Really enjoying it.

Andy.

liquidguitars
08-06-2008, 11:15 PM
cool beans, Andy and welcome..

LG

badger
08-06-2008, 11:22 PM
Its amazing to see this kind of teardown from a 1st poster. You look like you will be an outstanding source of information Andy.

I for one appreciate the time you took to look into and try and find a possible solutions for others.

Jvicaretti
08-07-2008, 06:18 AM
Thank you Andy, I'll keep my fingers crossed for you and look forward to your how to post.

Digitalwoodshop
08-07-2008, 07:50 AM
PICTURES.... WE Want PICTURES...... Snicker... Welcome !!!!

I just got some Fiber Optic Cable off eBay and want to take some old units and make them Fiber Optic Versions by soldering the broken LED's directly to the circuit board without the black plastic holder and heat shrink the fiber optic to the end of the LED's and receiver. Then just slide the 3 Fiber Tubes down the slot to the window. The Board would be up by the Z Pack.

What part of the country are you in? I am near Tobyhanna Army Depot.

AL

DocWheeler
08-07-2008, 08:22 AM
Andy,

I would like to echo Badger's comments "Its amazing to see this kind of teardown from a 1st poster. You look like you will be an outstanding source of information Andy.

I for one appreciate the time you took to look into and try and find a possible solutions for others."

You show promise of being a valuable resource to the rest of us.
__________________

ChrisAlb
08-07-2008, 09:34 AM
Ah yes...another diagnostician. COOL!!....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

We can always use another member looking to improve on an already great product.

Welcome A "Board" Andy and a big thanks from the whole community I'm sure....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

Technicow
08-07-2008, 09:27 PM
PICTURES.... WE Want PICTURES...... Snicker... Welcome !!!!

I just got some Fiber Optic Cable off eBay and want to take some old units and make them Fiber Optic Versions by soldering the broken LED's directly to the circuit board without the black plastic holder and heat shrink the fiber optic to the end of the LED's and receiver. Then just slide the 3 Fiber Tubes down the slot to the window. The Board would be up by the Z Pack.

What part of the country are you in? I am near Tobyhanna Army Depot.

AL

So far I've found that the only part which needs fiber optics is the receiver (in the middle). But that goes with a caveat, I haven't tested the finished assembly completely yet. I had the board plugged in, with the fiber optic & shrink wrap on the detector only. It looked good on the #'s in options-7 but the proof is in the pudding, once I put the complete assembly back and test it.

I tried to be as kind as I could to the plastic housing with a dremel & cutoff wheel while disassembling, however I wasn't entirely pleased with what I had done. Today I hand cut an aluminum replacement for that part, matched it up and got it to fit really nice. I've siliconed the PCB in place and am letting it dry. I hope it'll be done tommorow, but Saturday looks most likely. I'm hoping the aluminum housing will add some durability. I've used silicone between the PCB & the aluminum (metal!) housing to avoid making a sparkler.

Once done, I'll install it and test it, and report back. I'm taking pics as I go in case this works. If it does, I'll put up a page with a walkthrough for others.

As an aside, be carefull if you use any adhesives you use to adhere the PCB in case they are conductive. For example, Liquid Nails is conductive, wet & dry and will short any PCB it is on. If unsure, use a voltmeter to see if the material is conductive (wet & dry) before using it.

I'm in Las Vegas, NV (old Navajo word for "too bloody hot").

Andy

Technicow
08-08-2008, 10:44 PM
Hello All,

I've completed this little mini project (fix the sensor) sucessfully so far. I'm making some sawdust right now with my modified sensor. I've noted what I did onto a quick webpage on my wifes business website (she sells software I write).

I'm not sure if this justifies it's own thread or whatever (I don't know truely how widespread this quirk is, if it is at all) so I'm just adding the link to what I did in here. I'll let more senior folks make the call on whether this is of true value to anyone.

I've put together a quick little page and you can find it at:

http://www.technicow.com/CarveWright/index.html

Anyone is welcome to copy, reproduce, embellish apon, incorporate, modify, improve or otherwise pilfer this info! Do throw a link to my wifes business if you do though as a matter of courtesy in your link area (www.technicow.com). This info is absolutely free for CarveWright to take any of it if it helps make this great machine better (although sending me a full set of bits is always welcome if in fact this is usefull!).

thanks,

Andy

Deolman
08-08-2008, 11:08 PM
Andy, I tried the link and it doesn't work for me. Suggestions?

Technicow
08-08-2008, 11:20 PM
Should be fixed now and loadable by IE now.



Andy, I tried the link and it doesn't work for me. Suggestions?

I've checked with Internet Explorer and, in fact it is not loading (with IE). I don't use IE (due to too many exploits) so my default browser has no problem. I'm messing with it now to get it to work with IE.

Andy

Audie
08-09-2008, 08:16 AM
Should be fixed now and loadable by IE now.

Andy, I accessed your link in IE with no problem! Thank you for the detailed information and for sharing your research freely with us!

Audie

***Retired Army Tanker***

Ken Massingale
08-09-2008, 10:17 AM
Should be fixed now and loadable by IE now.




I've checked with Internet Explorer and, in fact it is not loading (with IE). I don't use IE (due to too many exploits) so my default browser has no problem. I'm messing with it now to get it to work with IE.

Andy
No problem here with IE 7

Digitalwoodshop
08-09-2008, 10:24 AM
One of the Engineers Chimed in one time and mentioned there was a mathematical Averaging process using a weighted scale or a Bell Curve to calculate the board detector readings to actual board edge giving the most accurate board edge.

The important thing is have the light pipe to prevent side LED illumination and causing false readings. I would be curious to read a board with your updated sensor and then with a factory sensor. That will be my test when I make the fiber optic cable version. Make board measurements with the factory setup then with the fiber optic version and make adjustments to the fiber optic length to see if the readings change. Found the fiber optic cable on eBay....

AL

Deolman
08-09-2008, 02:56 PM
It works great with IE6. Thanks, Andy

insp_gadget
08-09-2008, 07:23 PM
It's been a while since I've been on since I have been busy getting my youngest son married off. I am ready to get back into CC'ing but the last time I tried messing with it I was also having problems with board sensor. If you could put some instructions here it would be appreciated. P.S. I have made some really nice things with it including my new family room and the almost unbelievable fireplace surround I made entirely with the CC.