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View Full Version : Finally, Centerline in a Carve Region!!



cnsranch
07-21-2008, 02:01 PM
I've got this in another thread, but I think it's kind of important...

The attached will show the results of my trying to figure this out for months (sorry, I'm slow).

Project designed in two parts. First part carved, then load up second project. Here's what I did from there to get results:

When the CW asked for me to load the 90 degree v bit, I loaded a bit that was exactly .25" shorter than my v bit (I had an extra bit holder, just loaded a bit into it and measured it against the 90). Jogged to touch on the area that hadn't been carved - the CW measured the "fake" bit to the surface, bit plate, etc. When the machine spun up to begin the centerline carve, I opened the cover, changed to the correct bit (now .25" longer than measured), closed cover, hit enter, and voila!! I got centerline in the carve region!!

Designer will allow Centerline to be programmed into a carve region, but will only allow the centerline cut depth from the original surface. So, the v bit will simply carve in thin air if the Carve Region is deeper than the Centerline font. Technically, it's still doing just that, I've fooled the machine by making the bit longer by the depth of the carve region.

Finally, some sanding work left, but do any of you have any finishing suggestions?

snood56
07-21-2008, 03:34 PM
You are a brilliant human. Thanks for the post.

Eagle Hollow
07-21-2008, 03:48 PM
Finally, some sanding work left, but do any of you have any finishing suggestions?[/QUOTE]

The sign is great...nice design...nice font. I would apply a coat of sanding sealer then finish the sanding/clean-up, which does not look like much. Then a couple of coats of spar varnish. Sand between coats.

Good luck and thanks for sharing the pics.

newcarver
07-21-2008, 04:16 PM
I tried this once and it worked.
Design your project, excluding the centerline, and add it to your card then design the text only in a second project, change the thickness of the wood to what it is after the carve region is taken out. This will only work if the lowest part of the carve region is where the bit comes down on the second project.

mtylerfl
07-21-2008, 04:18 PM
When the CW asked for me to load the 90 degree v bit, I loaded a bit that was exactly .25" shorter than my v bit (I had an extra bit holder, just loaded a bit into it and measured it against the 90). Jogged to touch on the area that hadn't been carved - the CW measured the "fake" bit to the surface, bit plate, etc. When the machine spun up to begin the centerline carve, I opened the cover, changed to the correct bit (now .25" longer than measured), closed cover, hit enter, and voila!! I got centerline in the carve region!!

Hello,

I thought it was much simpler than that - just load your normal V-bit as always and manually jog to the surface of the carve region. I don't think it's necessary to use the fake bit procedure, as the above should achieve the same result...centerline within the carve region.

Had you tried that before using the "1/4" shorter fake bit" technique?

cnsranch
07-21-2008, 04:28 PM
Yes, been working on this for too long. Take a look at the thread I have earlier today "Need help with the attached".

castingman
07-21-2008, 06:27 PM
cnsranch,

Great job !!! Looks .. Fantastic !!!!


Michael:D

mtylerfl
07-21-2008, 07:51 PM
Yes, been working on this for too long. Take a look at the thread I have earlier today "Need help with the attached".

Hello,

I read your other thread where you posted your excellent detailed account of what you went through. I think in principle, you're sort of on the right track, but I still believe that the 1/4" "difference" (which led to your solution of using the 1/4" shorter bit during the manual jog) is due to something else, and not a permanent solution that would work for all projects.

I have a gut feeling that it was a lucky "accident" that may have been proprietary with that project (or with ones that would be very similar to it, provided all other setup aspects and board depths are equal). But, of course, I don't know that for sure without being there and observing your entire setup procedure and board conditions.

I sure wish I was your next door neighbor so I could come over and see exactly what's going on! In any case, I'm really happy that you got the project done and it certainly does look VERY professional. Great job!

brdad
10-10-2008, 07:54 PM
I tried this once and it worked.
Design your project, excluding the centerline, and add it to your card then design the text only in a second project, change the thickness of the wood to what it is after the carve region is taken out. This will only work if the lowest part of the carve region is where the bit comes down on the second project.

Thanks for the tip, I just tried this method on a test carve and it worked great. I'll be attempting it on the actual project tomorrow with any luck.

............

Have the CW people ever given an explanation as to why they can't or won't add a depth to centerline? It seems you could have a few safety issues, like the bit hitting the edge of the carve region or going clear through the board, but by using these 'cheats' we are taking the same risk, possibly more so. Te only other possibility I see is that the depth would be the surface depth you would be setting and not the deepest part of the carve and they think we'll get confused.

mtylerfl
10-11-2008, 07:48 AM
Chris Molier gave the explanation just a few days ago, here on the forum - centerline cannot have depth control because it would cause the lettering to carve improperly.

Jogging manually to the (recessed) surface is the solution to doing centerline in recessed areas.

brdad
10-11-2008, 08:42 AM
Chris Molier gave the explanation just a few days ago, here on the forum - centerline cannot have depth control because it would cause the lettering to carve improperly.

Jogging manually to the (recessed) surface is the solution to doing centerline in recessed areas.

Thanks, must have missed that post. I'd say centerline doesn't carve properly (inside a carve region) without being able to set the depth either!

I can see the point, though. But again only if someone chose a depth other than the correct surface depth.

Perhaps having an option to manual jog to any surface whenever doing centerline. It would be doing the same thing, but allow you to use one file to complete the task.

I had success with the finished product, proof is in the pic attached. I'm not sure how adjusting a theoretical centerline surface depth of .2 inch (same as the carve region) or being able to jog to that carve region would produce improper lettering compared to the cheat I used.

mtylerfl
10-11-2008, 10:32 AM
That came out nice!

By the way, you always have the option available to manually jog to the surface whether it's for centerline, or simply to carve some more on an already carved or recessed area, or if you are making a carve in a recessed panel cabinet door, etc., etc...

brdad
10-11-2008, 03:29 PM
That came out nice!

By the way, you always have the option available to manually jog to the surface whether it's for centerline, or simply to carve some more on an already carved or recessed area, or if you are making a carve in a recessed panel cabinet door, etc., etc...

Thanks, I am pleased with it too, hopefully the recipient will be as well.

You are correct about manually jogging, but it has to be on a new project. I left my CW settings so I always manually jog to the surface. As in my project, once I carved out the .20 recess, I could not jog to the new surface for the centerline. I had to start up a second project and jog to the new surface. And even then I had to change the board thickness in designer from .75 to .55. If would be nice if the CW would ask to jog to surface before using the centerline in the middle of a project.

mtylerfl
10-11-2008, 04:26 PM
Thanks, I am pleased with it too, hopefully the recipient will be as well.

You are correct about manually jogging, but it has to be on a new project. I left my CW settings so I always manually jog to the surface. As in my project, once I carved out the .20 recess, I could not jog to the new surface for the centerline. I had to start up a second project and jog to the new surface. And even then I had to change the board thickness in designer from .75 to .55. If would be nice if the CW would ask to jog to surface before using the centerline in the middle of a project.

Try this...

...you can set the machine to "Jog Touch" at all times, so you'll be prompted to jog to the surface manually. (I believe you'll be prompted at any time when a bit needs to find the surface.)

On the keypad, go to the User options Menu (press "0" then "5")
At 1) Jog Touch it will will be set to "Off" - you can toggle it to "On" by pressing "1" or "Enter", then press "Stop" to finalize the setting.

The machine should now prompt you for manually jogging to the surface when appropriate.

Please let us know if that works for you.

brdad
10-11-2008, 05:28 PM
Try this...

...you can set the machine to "Jog Touch" at all times, so you'll be prompted to jog to the surface manually. (I believe you'll be prompted at any time when a bit needs to find the surface.)

On the keypad, go to the User options Menu (press "0" then "5")
At 1) Jog Touch it will will be set to "Off" - you can toggle it to "On" by pressing "1" or "Enter", then press "Stop" to finalize the setting.

The machine should now prompt you for manually jogging to the surface when appropriate.

Please let us know if that works for you.

That is the setting I was referring to in my post, it is set to "On".

The problem is, it only asks to jog and checks the surface at the beginning of a project. It doesn't ask each time you insert a bit - Nor should it in most cases. By then it has measured all the bits, so it knows just what to do with each bit. Of course, once you carve 0.2" into the board, centerline still uses the original surface as it's reference, and then carves the air. Designer allows you to set the depth for every other aspect of the machine, so there probably is no need to have it find any surface other than the original one for anything (excepting centerline the way it is currently set up).

So that means taking your project and hiding the centerline, uploading that to the card, and then hide everything but the centerline and load that as a second project.

If it asked to jog to the surface when doing centerline text, that would help in at least the cases where the surface is level enough to find a consistent surface, as my project was. I can't imagine many people would want to put centerline on a surface that varied much in height, anyway.

Sorry about going on about this; I have a hard job giving up on problems until I can fix them or am thoroughly convinced they can't be. :rolleyes:

mtylerfl
10-12-2008, 06:45 AM
If it asked to jog to the surface when doing centerline text, that would help in at least the cases where the surface is level enough to find a consistent surface, as my project was. ..
Sorry about going on about this; I have a hard job giving up on problems until I can fix them or am thoroughly convinced they can't be. :rolleyes:

Yes, it certainly could be handy to be able to "tell" the machine you want to jog a new depth within the same project when using centerline in a flat recessed area.