Lockdown leadscrew tierod assembly problems

[Gary Koval]

I have contacted LHR in reference to this and my CC is taking a vacation down in the Lone Star State. But I was wondering if perhaps this is operator error, or, because if I didn't have bad luck, I would'nt have any, and its a bad part.
In mid to late June I was starting a project and while cranking down the head it bound up and started clicking as if it were all the way down but it wasn't. Called LHR and the tech talked me through realigning the head and also told me to find a bigger washer to hold the tierod in place and that should do it. And it did until about a week or so ago when I noticed that I had to realign the head about every four of five times I cranked it down and up. Then last Friday after realigning it, putting it together and cranking it about 3/4 of the way down it again went out of align. Took it apart again and started looking to find that the slots that the tierod sits in were elongated to the point that each time I cranked down (the crank or computer side) of the tierod was skipping teeth so it would not let the head go down more than 3/4 of the way before binding up again (see pics).
I should also say that when I first aligned it in mid June I checked the down pressure and it stayed at a steady 75-85lbs which it has been since I've owned it. When I start a project I let it click 3-5 times before proceeding. I very rarely use the red handle lock when doing a project.
I'd appreciate any input as to cause. Operator error and what I can do to correct it? Or bad part?

[Gary Koval]

Sorry here are pics.
Thanks Gary

[liquidguitars]

well not the same thing but..

I was able to fix my tie rods screw hole after it striped and split open with some epoxy, drilled and taped the screw opening.

LG

[Gary Koval]

Even if I fix the screw holes, what about the elongated slots, can't imagine the torque put on that area, and how would I even try to epoxy the slots and how long would it last.....
but thanks,
Gary

[liquidguitars]

if it was me i would come in from the side.. Add some sheat plastic to the sides to form a new ribbing.

LG

[Digitalwoodshop]

I would get a piece of brass stock from an Engraving shop and have them cut you some stops that you can file a U into both pieces. Then drill both pieces with 2 holes and sandwich it at the seating point of the area where the rod rides. Steel against Brass with some lube should give you years of use. The trick is getting the holes in the right place.

Alignment is easy. Set the right side to the height of a block of wood and with the left side unhooked crank the handle to make the left match the right side. Rather than try to turn the rod shaft.

Good Luck,

I will be looking at that area next time I open my 800 hour unit as it skipped a few teeth due to a loose washer.... Might be worn....

AL

My right side was HIGH by the tag width. I got a bunch of "BOARD ERRORS" before I re adjusted it.... Hint.... Board Errors check the distance with a block. Crank the head down and touch the block and move it back and forth and check both sides.

[mtylerfl]

IAlignment is easy. Set the right side to the height of a block of wood and with the left side unhooked crank the handle to make the left match the right side. Rather than try to turn the rod shaft.

Hint.... Board Errors check the distance with a block. Crank the head down and touch the block and move it back and forth and check both sides.

Those are GREAT helpful tips, AL. Thanks!

[Gary Koval]

I already committed to sending it back to Texas. I'll see what they do for me there, but I like your ideas LG and Al and thanks. Just as a note to adjusting height LHR told me to crank up the non-crankside/computer side up to the top notch of part #25 the "Verticle Guide Rod" then loosen that side of the tierod and crank up the opposite side to the same point. Retighten everything and your good to go. I don't know if thats any easier then your way Al or not, just thought I'd mention it (see pic).
Gary

[want2b]

Had my machine almost 2 years and never realised the head was out of level until I did a wide carving with a laminated board to get the two tone effect. Checked the carving and found there was approx .08 diifference in depth from side to side on a 12 wide carve region.
Almost a tenth of an inch, definitely enough to ruin the carve on a 2.5 inch thich peice of walnut that I laminated with poplar. Hope to save the board by planing & relaminating
Found this thread through a search, used the method Gary got from LHR to set the head and Al's block method to check the results. Found there was a definite need to check it as using the LHR method actually shifted the head slightly the other way, which the block check showed immediately.
Thanks to both Gary & Al for sharing, as usual the forum simplified my repair.
Rick