Digitalwoodshop
07-07-2008, 06:26 PM
This is important enough to post with words that will be searched for later.
In the end of May I had a problem with the X Termination board and that made my Cut Motor run when it was not to be running. Like during the wait for me to change the bit and after the carve finished and it was in the home position. I found at that time that the C1 or Capacitor 1 on the X or X Axis Termination board had a broken lead.
This broken lead caused by vibration made the cut motor run all the time. The cut motor stopped when the cover was opened as the Motor Kill Switch then cut the return path for the Cut Motor. Close the cover and the Cut Motor started again.
I soldered the board, the lead was very short and I thought it would hold.... Well it failed again this weekend and I posted about it. I just replaced it with the one that I had ordered, MWM A2074 for $30.75 plus shipping.
Today is failed again and I went in at bit change and the cut motor was humming away. I opened the cover and it stopped. Closed the cover and it did not start. I pounded my fist on the area of the top of the machine where the bolts are on the posts. Every tap caused the Cut Motor to spin a few times. Rapid tapping caused it to continue to run. The C1 must be loose on the board.
Called LHR and ordered another board. I will find a replacement cap at a later time and replace it and glue it.
Also talked to Software and Omar and asked him to pass up the chain of command a request for a fail safe to be written into the program that monitored the cut motor sensor and seeing pulses at bit change or end of project in the home position should fault the machine out. I recommended seeing something like greater than 20 pulses be the window it looks for as I rotate the bit at bit change.
As the machines age I expect more will see this problem. I am going to glue the C1 in my 3 machines and recommend anyone concerned about this do the same. The weight of the Capacitor vibrates and the copper wire lead fails from fatigue. Like bending a copper wire in your hand until it changes color and breaks.
I also asked Omar if they could add a window at Cut Path Accept or Flip Path to give us the options of a 50 % bite, Normal Bite, or the New 130 GO FOR IT Cut path.
I went to my machine and in the home position just tapping on the machine causes the Cut Motor to start for a second.... Then stop.
Just my 2 Cents... I will replace the board in the morning from another machine and send it in for failure analysis without touching C1.
My Contribution to Progress.... I can see the first board failing but the second... A New one... NO.
I took programming classes at Sony for Omron Ladder Support Logic that ran the Program Logic Controllers making Picture Tubes. It ran the Conveyors, Fanuc Robots and all the automated equipment. I can picture in my mind how I would program the fail safe for the Cut Motor.... I really need to get a life outside of the office.....
AL
Posted the OLD picture for anyone that did not see it.
I just looked and I took a picture of the second failure of the first board that I repaired. The Solder did not fail, the copper lead broke off flush with the under side of the capacitor the second time, picture 3. Glue would have prevented that.
In the end of May I had a problem with the X Termination board and that made my Cut Motor run when it was not to be running. Like during the wait for me to change the bit and after the carve finished and it was in the home position. I found at that time that the C1 or Capacitor 1 on the X or X Axis Termination board had a broken lead.
This broken lead caused by vibration made the cut motor run all the time. The cut motor stopped when the cover was opened as the Motor Kill Switch then cut the return path for the Cut Motor. Close the cover and the Cut Motor started again.
I soldered the board, the lead was very short and I thought it would hold.... Well it failed again this weekend and I posted about it. I just replaced it with the one that I had ordered, MWM A2074 for $30.75 plus shipping.
Today is failed again and I went in at bit change and the cut motor was humming away. I opened the cover and it stopped. Closed the cover and it did not start. I pounded my fist on the area of the top of the machine where the bolts are on the posts. Every tap caused the Cut Motor to spin a few times. Rapid tapping caused it to continue to run. The C1 must be loose on the board.
Called LHR and ordered another board. I will find a replacement cap at a later time and replace it and glue it.
Also talked to Software and Omar and asked him to pass up the chain of command a request for a fail safe to be written into the program that monitored the cut motor sensor and seeing pulses at bit change or end of project in the home position should fault the machine out. I recommended seeing something like greater than 20 pulses be the window it looks for as I rotate the bit at bit change.
As the machines age I expect more will see this problem. I am going to glue the C1 in my 3 machines and recommend anyone concerned about this do the same. The weight of the Capacitor vibrates and the copper wire lead fails from fatigue. Like bending a copper wire in your hand until it changes color and breaks.
I also asked Omar if they could add a window at Cut Path Accept or Flip Path to give us the options of a 50 % bite, Normal Bite, or the New 130 GO FOR IT Cut path.
I went to my machine and in the home position just tapping on the machine causes the Cut Motor to start for a second.... Then stop.
Just my 2 Cents... I will replace the board in the morning from another machine and send it in for failure analysis without touching C1.
My Contribution to Progress.... I can see the first board failing but the second... A New one... NO.
I took programming classes at Sony for Omron Ladder Support Logic that ran the Program Logic Controllers making Picture Tubes. It ran the Conveyors, Fanuc Robots and all the automated equipment. I can picture in my mind how I would program the fail safe for the Cut Motor.... I really need to get a life outside of the office.....
AL
Posted the OLD picture for anyone that did not see it.
I just looked and I took a picture of the second failure of the first board that I repaired. The Solder did not fail, the copper lead broke off flush with the under side of the capacitor the second time, picture 3. Glue would have prevented that.