CAUTION v.1.130

[TerryT]

Never had a problem with cut paths in version 1.126. I upgraded to 1.130 the other day. I have run two projects and broken two cutting bits. The last one was brand spanking new, the first one had less than an hour use!

The cost of making a project is gonna go up a tad if you figure a new $30 bit for each one.

Anyone know where I can go to get 1.126 back?

[Jeff_Birt]

I have cut several projects with 1.130 and the 1/8" bit with no problems. I would suspect that perhaps maybe there is something different between our projects though. Can you post a sample?

[Jeff_Birt]

I have cut several projects with 1.130 and the 1/8" bit with no problems. I would suspect that perhaps maybe there is something different between our projects though. Can you post a sample?

[TerryT]

Jeff,
The projects were not anything special or difficult. I have carved 5 or 6 of them before without difficulty. three quarter inch cherry, after carving the 1/8 inch bit is only cutting about 3/8 inch thick material on the edges and pretty much straight lines. Maybe a couple of hours on the first one is all we can expect but I would think they should last longer than that. And I guess the last one, brand new, may have been defective. But that would be quite a coincidence.

[cowetaron]

Yes i to upgraded just recently. I also used the cut path tool to cut out a small carving. I noticed that that 1/8" bit did not make small cuts through the material but noticed that it went completely through the material in one pass. I was cutting 1/2" corian at the time. the only thing that saved my bit was that i had left the feather feature on and had dropped the carving quite deep into the material. I also noticed that it was going alot slower than previously. Another problem i have now is that my probe was working fine before my upgrade. now when i try to scan anything i notice that the tip hits the edge of the pattern and the shaft bends about 1/4" before the z track raises the tip. everything is clean and moves freely. I can carve and it works fine. I may go back to my original program. ron :(

[LollyWood]

I just noticed the same thing as Terry. 126 cut path would make it's run is 3-4 passes, 130 does it in one. I just cut 1/2 select pine w/o any problem, but what is the wear-n-tear on the bit, not so much the 1st third, but the 2/3 of the bit w/ friction and heat build up? I have some cut paths set for 3/4" stock but am wondering about cutting that thick in 1 pass. Won't that put undue stress on 1/8" spiral cut bit?

Just requesting some insight. :)

[LittleRedWoodshop]

If you can't go back you can run it as multiple cuts..... I have not upgraded, I always wait to see what the issues are as LHR will work them out eventually.

Multiple cuts... you could run say 3 cuts of different depths over the same path. Long way around but it will get you there, without the PLUNGE.

Good luck to everyone that is using the new software. As far as going back your PC may have saved a Restore Point before you updated the software.

[Hawg_man]

I've done 2 projects using the new version and had no problem with the new method of cutting out in 1 pass. I believe the bit should hold up because of it's design and they did modify the speed when they made the change,also my bit didn't seem to squeal as much as it did when taking multiple passes. If the feed rate was corrected I believe this is an improvement. Checked my bit after project stopped and didn't seem overheated . Bothe projects were 3/4" select pine so haven't tried any harder wood yet.

Bob

[ChrisAlb]

I don't know but I've heard that the cut path was changed like that intentionally. It cuts "through" in one pass rather than many but feeds at a much slower rate to do so.

So my question is, Has anyone actually timed (even roughly) the difference to complete a cut out?

Terry, you said you've cut several of the same project before with 1.126. Assuming you actually got through one of them in 1.130, did the "total" time to do so remain about the same?

I ask because in my mind, if one pass at a much slower rate takes about as long as multiple passes at a faster rate, I would favor the multiple passes and save some stress on the bit.

I DO however see an advantage to a single pass cut out especially on longer length carves. Not having to go all the way around the project several times reduces the chance of the old "Stair Stepping" issue. But since even that 6 foot 6 inch long Facade (with MANY cut outs) cut perfectly for me, I'm of the mind to leave "well enough alone".

I think it may have been wise to include a user option to "select" whether we want a single or multiple pass cut out. That way, we can determine the best approach for the type and thickness of the material we're using. I've said it many times now. WE need MORE control over what the software and machine does.

After hearing this. I believe I'll go back to 1.126 myself. I have only one 1/8" cutting bit. It's the original, still sharp as a razor and I simply can't afford to take any chances of it snapping.

Thanks everyone!

[TerryT]

Terry, you said you've cut several of the same project before with 1.126. Assuming you actually got through one of them in 1.130, did the "total" time to do so remain about the same?

Chris,
No I have not actually timed it, however, the difference is clear. Although the feed rate is slower the total time clearly is faster with the single pass cut. I think the single cut is a great idea as long as the feed rate is slow enough to not break bits.

Understand guys, there may be something I'm missing and it would be great to hear from others saying that they have done six or eight project cut outs with no problem. My personal experience so far, however, makes me think the feed rate may be a little fast.

[ChrisAlb]

My personal experience so far, however, makes me think the feed rate may be a little fast.

Well Terry, based on the fact that I've seen your work and you're one hell of a designer/carver. And by your posts I know you know your way around the machine and have "few" if any issues.

Your "personal" experience is good enough for me to throw up a "Caution" flag and at least take note of things. THANKS!!

It's nice to know that even at full depth, the cut is faster. Like many I'm sure, I can't tell you how many times after a 5 hour carve I've stood there saying..."On man, ANOTHER pass?? http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon9.gif C'mon!!"....lol

[Jeff_Birt]

Guys a LOT of testing (both internal and external) went into the new vector cutting design. I have used it myself quite a bit with no problems what-so-ever. To date I have cut pine, poplar and plywood with the new single-pass method.

What would be helpful is to find specific cases where this causes a problem. For instance:

I was cutting 1/2" corian at the time.

This is a mistake no matter what the method. CW recommends cutting (or carving) no deeper than 1/8" in Corian as it is so dense.

As for Terry's problem in Cherry, I don't know. That is why I asked for a sample of of the MPC that caused problems (so CW could try to duplicate it). My only thoughts are perhaps the bit hit some knots in the wood, or perhaps his QC is worn to the point that it allows to much run-out which will really stress a bit.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I am with Jeff on the possible QC being worn. If you grab the end of the 1/8 inch bit and move it in 4 directions and you feel movement then it is time to replace the QC.

I had sent a request to Software to get a window at selecting Cut Path to take a half size bite in 126 for harder materials doing multi passes. I have cut 6 projects in 130 with cut path's in 3/4 inch pine and no problem. I have some corian to play with. I might load 126 on another drive and give me the option of the old cut path if I have problems.

What I really would like to see software do is give us selectable options at the cut path menu. Like Burger King.... Have it you way..... Having one option is good but Flexibility is what makes this machine such a fantastic toy.

Back to work,

AL

[liquidguitars]

what is the wear-n-tear on the bit

The bits will build more pitch when drilling and cutting with 1 pass, so it a good idea to remove any pitch on the bits with cleaner and replaced old bits with sharp ones.

The CW unit needs to be working at 100 % I replaced dull bits flex shafts cores/springs. With the one pass cutting and the new logic I am getting parts that are turning out fantastic!


What I really would like to see software do is give us selectable options at the cut path menu

Regarding having a option for a 1 pass cut or just dvide in steps, this could be the way to go.

1 pass only works for the 1/8 cutting bit selection so you can select the 1/16 carving and swap it for thr 1/8 cut
it should act like 1.126

LG

[gmalanoski]

I just replaced my qc prior to my last "attempt" to carve. While doing my 1st cutout with the new qc and ver. 1.130, my bit broke about half way thru the cutpath. I also inspected the adapter for any damage which could cause it to be loose - none.

I was using 3/4" maple and have never had a problem before with this feature, with the exception of the stair step which was cured with some tape and the boards edge. I sure can buy a lot of masking tape for $40!

[cowetaron]

I'm glad others have noticed the difference and wasn't just me. I working in corian and thats pretty hard material. I'm a little concerned about the bit but am more concerned about the load it may be placing on my flex cable. The feed speed seems to be about right to me and by leaving the feathering in place most of the material had been cut out. Sooo , I'm not having any problems yet. I'm just basing my reasoning on my 36 years working in a cabinet shop (mine & others.) still wondering why my probe should all of a sudden not work since upgrade. anyone having same problem ? Ron

[Router-Jim]

I'm am actually rather surprised the software is designed to let the 1/8" bit take a full plunge.

The general rule of thumb in the router bit world is that the max depth of cut per pass should not exceed the bits diameter. At 6X that rule I am not at all surprised to hear of bits breaking.


Jim

[Amonaug]

I'm glad others have noticed the difference and wasn't just me. I working in corian and thats pretty hard material. I'm a little concerned about the bit but am more concerned about the load it may be placing on my flex cable. The feed speed seems to be about right to me and by leaving the feathering in place most of the material had been cut out. Sooo , I'm not having any problems yet. I'm just basing my reasoning on my 36 years working in a cabinet shop (mine & others.) still wondering why my probe should all of a sudden not work since upgrade. anyone having same problem ? Ron

Shouldn't be using the cut path in corian at all. In fact for corian it's recommended not to carve deeper than .08"

[Dan-Woodman]

I would think the only time you would get away with a full depth cut is in softwood, like balsa and pine . If theres a knot, forget it. Also each piece of wood you pick up is going to be different. One will be harder than another. They have'nt convinced me that a full path cut is better. I'm from the old school where $40.00 is a lot of bread.

Either way, I still prefer the scrollsaw for doing my cut outs.

By the way , our gas just went to $3.86 .

later Daniel

[Amonaug]

I would think the only time you would get away with a full depth cut is in softwood, like balsa and pine . If theres a knot, forget it. Also each piece of wood you pick up is going to be different. One will be harder than another. They have'nt convinced me that a full path cut is better. I'm from the old school where $40.00 is a lot of bread.

Either way, I still prefer the scrollsaw for doing my cut outs.

By the way , our gas just went to $3.86 .

later Daniel

$3.86?! Is that all? Our gas is hovering between $3.96 and $4.02

[DocWheeler]

Are you guys just pulling our legs?
We just got back to Ohio where gas is $4.10 from Michigan where it was $4.30!

[Kenm810]

Hi Ken,

("We just got back from Michigan where it was $4.30!")

That's on a good day, you should see the prices for the rest of the week!! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif

Ps. We're on the road a again this coming weekend, looking at some property in the thumb
for a weekend hide away and a good place for some "fishin"

[ChrisAlb]

I would think the only time you would get away with a full depth cut is in softwood, like balsa and pine . If theres a knot, forget it. Also each piece of wood you pick up is going to be different. One will be harder than another. They have'nt convinced me that a full path cut is better. I'm from the old school where $40.00 is a lot of bread.

Daniel,

I agree completely about cut outs (and other bits) in knots. Even the multi pass cut outs can get ugly. I like to locate them on the board. Then I draw a circle to represent it in Designer. Then avoid it like the plague with anything but a carved region....lol

[www.go3d.us]

Version 1.30 also crashed so often when importing image and save as pattern.

[LollyWood]

If I'm get'n this right, if I'm using a more dense wood (red oak, claro walnut, hondo rosewood, etc) or knotty / old growth pine I would be better off w/ 126 for cut path in multi passes?

I like the single pass of 130, but since I'm a non warrantee I need to be aware of putting any undue stress on parts, They tend to get a mite expensive over time. ;)

This is still an option for me as I recovered 126 from my PC.

Thanks "Gurus" for the imput. That's why the forum Rocks.

[TerryT]

I'm with Chris on the QC issue. I have close to 300 hours on my machine. At 140 hours my QC died and was replaced with a new one. The new one was DOA out of the box. The third one has been working fine for over 150 hours and is still working well, BUT I think the first one died because I didn't keep it clean enough. Just one time with the bit not seated properly is enough to damage the QC. Now I thoroughly clean it with each bit change and make sure I get that final "snap" and feel the slight twist of the bit as the QC locks it in place. Then a good "wiggle" to see if there is any movement.

One thing I did notice after going with 130, is when cutting out a part there was a considerable amount of chatter or bounce in the flex shaft which I have not had before. I'm wondering if this is torque loading and unloading or twisting of the cable in the flex shaft and a possible cause of the bit breaking?

[woodie]

I was working on a project where I needed to cut eight 8 1/2" circles out of 3/4" veneer core plywood when it was cutting the fifth one it toasted the Quick Change Chuck. I think the cut path should be set to be @ 3/8" depth. I can't imagine cutting a piece of 1" hardwood in one pass.

Woodie

[newcarver]

When a new update comes out, wait a few weeks to see the feedback in the forum. They may immediately tell you if its a good thing or a bad thing. Most have been good, but occasionaly they are bad(this applies to alot of software, not just cw). Better to wait and see how it pans out.

[jackssib1]

Come on down, I have 6 acars i'm selling, lol ,,1/2 mile from river.
olny 72. G's
See yall, gotta go scan more.
Thanks
Jack





Hi Ken,

("We just got back from Michigan where it was $4.30!")

That's on a good day, you should see the prices for the rest of the week!! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif

Ps. We're on the road a again this coming weekend, looking at some property in the thumb
for a weekend hide away and a good place for some "fishin"

[GeneWeber]

Hi Folks,

I'm a new user, and this is my first post. A project of mine needed a few 2.25" disks with 0.25" center holes, so I decided to use the CW. Tried it first on 3/4" luan underlayment using software version 1.126. Results were horrible. "Center" holes were off by as much as 1/2" and stair stepping on one side of the disks. I thought there was something wrong with the machine, and customer support wasn't real helpful. Many thanks to the experienced people on this forum who post. After searching and reading posts I tried again with the same wood. The board had slightly less than a 1/16 warp along its length. It was flipped so that the cup was up instead of down, and masking tape was applied for the brass roller to get some traction. I also upgraded to version 1.130.

I noticed that the SW change plunged the bit full depth instead of multiple passes. Cutting time was shorted. The holes were now centered and everything looked good (no doubt because the brass roller was getting traction). One important note: The drill holes done using 1.126 appeared nice and round, but are noticeably out of round with 1.130. I then decided that the final disks should be of harder material, and switched to 3/4" red oak. This also worked fine, no broken bits for me, but the flex shaft did chatter a bit as it cut across the grain. Note that my machine has less than 2 hours on it. Again, the 0.25" drill holes were noticeably not perfect 0.25" circles, but were quite useable. Since I no longer had laminated material I decide to mount the disks with the grain alternating 90 degrees disk to disk. That's when I noticed that the disks also were not perfect circles. They were off by about 1/16" (both sides of the disks were offset by about 1/32" when stacked). Now that I think think about this I'll check the plywood disks for out of round when I get back to my workshop.

I'm new and just learning how to use the CW, so I may be making mistakes. Perhaps I just need to properly calibrate it, and the drills and disks will be perfect circles. But I am curious if anyone noticed a change in the drill hole roundness from 1.126 to 1.130?

Just thought I'd share my experience.

Gene

[bjbethke]

I did a carving in cedar with the 1.130 update, smoke came out of the CW when the bit hit the knots, but that may be normal for cedar knots. It cut out OK, would like to see more passes on cutouts.

The photo is my son-in-law fishing. I added the fish, and made the carving for him.

[bdehoyos]

Just a question…

Is it possible to change from “multiple passes cut out” to “bit plunge cut out” by just changing the firmware version on the card regardless of the designer version?

BDH

[Woodman]

Just changed out a QC and a Zmotor for the first time and did a project in 1.130. How's that for a throwing in a few variable aspects??? *G* Anyway I did it in oak and I noticed some initial burn marks when my CW was using a 1/3 Ogee on the second and third cuts. Never happened before but I haven't cut too much oak before now either. I do think that 1.130 puts more strain on the bit because it dives deeper into the wood on each pass when it's doing the final shaping on the outside edge. At least that's what I think was happening. I also know that my bit got to about 130 degrees F by my infrared temperature monitor. That's hotter than I've ever seen. My QC also got into the 120's during those cuts and I'm not sure I like that at all. When it was carving with the carving bit no problems were noted with heat or burning. Thanks to Phillip at tech help for his patience and good advice!!!!! Thought I'd throw in a new project for your perusal. . . merry carving! Pete

[CraigR]

How do I go back to the old software and firmware? This new stuff is garbage. I have wrecked more boards and ruined 2 bits with it and I am only doing a simple sign with Ariel font. I will post a picture soon of the last mess it made.

[ChrisAlb]

How do I go back to the old software and firmware? This new stuff is garbage. I have wrecked more boards and ruined 2 bits with it and I am only doing a simple sign with Ariel font. I will post a picture soon of the last mess it made.

Craig,

That looks like a X-axis issue to me. I say that because the Y and Z look like they're OK. Is there "any" chance there's a nick in the bottom of the board, on the brass wheel side right at that point? Or "somehow" the brass roller lost contact there?

The letters seem to be the right depth, and they look to be the same height as all the others so the Y moved the way it should and so did the Z but the X seems to have gotten confused.

Anyway, if you still want to go back in software, as long as you have the older version of Designer, just un-install the new one and reinstall the old one.

But I would check the Board, the Brass Roller, it's Rubber O-Ring, X-Greas, The Belts (for any tears or rolling up on themselves) first. Anything you can think of that might interfere with the X travel.

Hope that helps some.

[CraigR]

This is about the 4th board this has happened to it is also moving slower with the new firmware/software and the are burn marks all along the letters so I think it's that. Do you know if the firmware for the machine will go back also? What about the licencese for the centerline function?

[ChrisAlb]

I've gone back and forth on the software twice now between 1.126 and 1.130 and no licensing was even mentioned. The "firmware" is on the memory card. You "Flash" that from within Designer (File/Flash manager) and you're good to go.

Which makes me ask....lol......DID you flash the memory card when you upgraded to 1.130? If not, That might be it.

[CraigR]

Yes, I formated the card and reflashed it with the new stuff.

[CraigR]

Went back to the old software and all is good again. I think they need to take another look at what they did in that version.

[pkunk]

For what it's worth....Despite having a weak flex shaft situation on my machine right now (waiting on a new one), I did a carve yesterday entailing a cut outline on a 10x14 oval. Went off without a hitch and really like the smoothness of cut with the new firmware. I believe that those of you that are having problems breaking bits probably have some other issues that the new firmware is magnifying.

[ChrisAlb]

For what it's worth....Despite having a weak flex shaft situation on my machine right now (waiting on a new one), I did a carve yesterday entailing a cut outline on a 10x14 oval. Went off without a hitch and really like the smoothness of cut with the new firmware. I believe that those of you that are having problems breaking bits probably have some other issues that the new firmware is magnifying.

I'd have to agree here Paul. (and it's nice to see you're back! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif )

I had my doubts in the beginning but didn't have time to carve anything with all the design work lately. I've done a few carvings now that each contain just about all the possible elements Designer is capable of and I'm impressed with the results. The carvings in pine (at Best mode) need almost no sanding at all. Everything is dead on accurate....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

The added carve time in best mode (which to my way of thinking is a wash or Better in time saved sanding) is fine with me.

I haven't done a carve in normal mode yet and I'm wondering if anyone has??.... :confused: My hope is that the new "Normal" replaces the old "Best". Some carvings just don't require the new Best and being able to produce the carvings I've already done in the same time and quality as before would be nice.

Anyway, I'm pleased overall so far. Still have some issues with the faulty handling of algorithms when placing lots of vectors and or attachments In Designer causing GUI faults though.

[pkunk]

I'd have to agree here Paul. (and it's nice to see you're back! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif )


Thanks Chris, but I've never been gone. I just haven't posted much as I've been extremely busy in the cabinet business. I just pop in, do my dutys, & pop back out. We've had a few spam threads that needed cleaning up but most of the forum members have been behaving themselves which makes the Mods lives easier. ;)
Until a few days ago the CW hadn't been turned on in several months. Before that I made a bunch of shelf pin holed cabinet sides to stock me up for those jobs. It was a drillin' fool. My best shop helper!

[CraigR]

I was using the normal mode and it seemed to go to slow and was burning the board. New bit by the way.

[ChrisAlb]

Oh...http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon11.gif...I hadn't seen any posts in some time so I figured you went on vacation or some such thing..:rolleyes:

Glad business is booming for you Paul. Still good to "hear" from you again...lol

[pkunk]

I was using the normal mode and it seemed to go to slow and was burning the board. New bit by the way.
More specifics, Please Craig. What kind & thickness of wood? My project(in best) was in 13/16" hard maple which is very prone to burning & came out clean.

[liquidguitars]

I been building a new guitar body this week with version 1.13 unlike my LP designs the Telecaster body uses only vector paths the 1/2 , 3/8 and 1/8 straight bits. Its fast, "only 30 mins for the top routs"

But I am getting a lot of smoak with the 1/2 bit as it seem to take 80% of the overall depth of the cut in it's first run. :confused:

For a finished pocket depth .850 the 1/2 bit will make two cuts "cool" the first one cuts at .611 deep and the next finish pass cuts at around .136" :confused:

Anyone use the 1/2 or 3/8 bits getting the same results?

LG

[bjbethke]

I made this cut last night with my 1/2 inch bit, (it is a bottom cutting bit.) to clean up the edge of an old carving in a sink cutout (press board) the first cut was 3/8th inch the second was 1/8th inch to clean the bottom. It gave me a "Check Cut Motor" at the start of the cut, I just pushed enter and it cut Ok. I wasen't sure it would make it on the first cut, left burn marks. If I was using my Router I would have reset the bit depth. I think that cut was/is hard on my equipment. I like a lot of changes in this up date, but that was no one of them. I wanted to use my other bits from my other router mill to make molding for photo frames, I'am not sure I should try that with the 1.130 update. May need another CW flash card to do that.

[bjbethke]

Hope the card come in different colors, but I guess I could always print a sticker for it.

[castingman]

Did my 1st sign with 1.13 with on trouble, I did notice when it was carving the deeper font it sounded like it was working harder , had i not been watching this post i would have stopped it.

There are burn marks in the deeper font but i am going to paint them anyhow .

Michael

[Digitalwoodshop]

Can I have a Cheeseburger please.... NO.... Only Eggs, Bacon or Spam.... in 1.130.....

You can have any color you want.... As long as it is Blue..... in 1.130.....

I think a selection window is really needed as one Cut Path does not fit all...... Time to put this machine one step closer to a Shop Bot in Capability.

As for Check Cut Motor look at Sensor data and see if your magnet is still there by turning the QC.

AL

[ChrisAlb]

I think a selection window is really needed as one Cut Path does not fit all...... AL

Al, What do you mean here by a "selection window"? What are you trying to do?

[Digitalwoodshop]

If a option window was expanded at the FLIP CUT PATH window to include options like Full Plunge Cut Path, and increments of depth cut paths that WE could select.

You can now have ANY Cut Path Choice you want as long as it is FULL DEPTH CUT PATH..... Any one YOU want.....

AL

[liquidguitars]

I made this cut last night with my 1/2 inch bit, (it is a bottom cutting bit.) to clean up the edge of an old carving in a sink cutout (press board) the first cut was 3/8th inch the second was 1/8th inch to clean the bottom. It gave me a "Check Cut Motor" at the start of the cut, I just pushed enter and it cut Ok

Same on my end, i got the "Check Cut Motor" with the 1/2 bit also. I think that i need new brushes on the motor anyway as starting up to full speed is cranky at best.


If a option window was expanded at the FLIP CUT PATH window to include options like Full Plunge Cut Path, and increments of depth cut paths that WE could select.

Good idea, and not for cut paths only..

checked the brushes 5/16" left on the motor.

will have to check Al's posts on the subject to see if i need replacment ones..

LG

[Semper Fi]

I just received a brand new Carvewright and ran a cutpath on 3/4 inch red oak. When it started, I was a little concerned with the way the flex shaft was jumping around, but it cut that oak with no visable problems. Since then I've done several more witout a hitch. I don't think I'd try it with my old Compucarve machine........... provided Sears ever gets it fixed! LOL

[Frank]

I have been a toolmaker for the last 34 years and have machined a lot of different materials. Brass won't cut like iron won't cut like copper ...etc. There are formulas for figuring out what the feed rate and rpms should be for a material at a certin cutter size. Althought we are not machining metal the the same rules would apply. Pine cuts different than oak cuts different than cherry...etc. In machining you take into consideration the material and its hardness the type chip you get the cutter size...etc. To take one rpm and one feed rate at one or two depth setting for all tools or even one tool for all materials is asking for problems. I think I will stay with the 1.126 for now. As one of the guys said. Cutters are expensive and so are repairs.

Thanks Frank

[liquidguitars]

I feel 1.130 is 100% better than 1.126 in every way. I do not plan on going back as parts are cleaner, fit better and carve smoother.

The 1/8 one pass is the way to go! If you have more chatter in the flex shaft durring "onepass cutting", it could be time for a replacement core. As the flex shaft gets older, you loose horsepower. But I think that a pass of .68" deep with a 1/2 straight is a little hardcore! We are getting a working guitar top rout in under 30 min. with 1.130, so i am happy so far.

I keep bits sharp and free from picth at all times now, and add one drop of 3n1 oil on the bit adapter durrnig the bit changes. Drop of oil will add to the life of QC keeping it cooler and cleaner.

But some still use 1.120 yuck! :) ...



LG

[bdehoyos]

A friend of mine has been designing CNC machines for the past 20 years and I ask for his opinion on the change to a 1 pass cut.

To make a long story short he sees as a disadvantage that there might be some increase in operational temperature and stress of the QC and Bit adapter.

But as an advantage he says that the one pass cut use the full length of the cutting edge of the bit instead of using only the tip on each pass. Therefore the bits should last longer. This along with more precise cuts.

He also points out that the conditions of the QC and the bit adapter becomes more critical because the increase on the work load on the one pass method.

Over all his opinion is that 1.3 is a better way to work. But more care on the QC and bit adapters is warranted.

[Ken Massingale]

I'm am actually rather surprised the software is designed to let the 1/8" bit take a full plunge.

The general rule of thumb in the router bit world is that the max depth of cut per pass should not exceed the bits diameter. At 6X that rule I am not at all surprised to hear of bits breaking.


Jim
I agree, Jim. I wouldn't think of making a 3/4" deep 'dado' using a 1/4" bit (much less a 1/8" bit) with a hand held or table mounted router.

I think I going to stay away from 1.130 until this feature is rectified.

[Jeff_Birt]

I agree, Jim. I wouldn't think of making a 3/4" deep 'dado' using a 1/4" bit (much less a 1/8" bit) with a hand held or table mounted router.

Nor would I, BUT then I cannot keep the stock/bit in the same alignment to each other like the CW can either. In the same vein, will I make circuit board on my table top mill I use tiny-tiny bits that you could never use by hand as you would snap then in a second, the mill works with then just fine.

While you can get a rough idea by comparing hand operations to machine operations there are many, many differences. Machines can perform operations in ways that we simply can't do by hand.

[ChrisAlb]

Nor would I, BUT then I cannot keep the stock/bit in the same alignment to each other like the CW can either. In the same vein, will I make circuit board on my table top mill I use tiny-tiny bits that you could never use by hand as you would snap then in a second, the mill works with then just fine.

While you can get a rough idea by comparing hand operations to machine operations there are many, many differences. Machines can perform operations in ways that we simply can't do by hand.

I couldn't agree more Jeff.

When I turned this house (picture 1) into this house (picture 2) using this method (picture 3) to make these parts (pictures 4 & 5), I can't tell you how I wished I could hold that router solid like a machine...LOL.

Even with the templates I made for doing it, the router was a fight to get through the 6" thick Fir beams..lol

I WAS the CNC machine....Chris Nonstop Cuttin....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon6.gif

[cnsranch]

Nice work, Chris

[alpmeadow]

I couldn't agree more Jeff.

When I turned this house (picture 1) into this house (picture 2) using this method (picture 3) to make these parts (pictures 4 & 5), I can't tell you how I wished I could hold that router solid like a machine...LOL.

Even with the templates I made for doing it, the router was a fight to get through the 6" thick Fir beams..lol

I WAS the CNC machine....Chris Nonstop Cuttin....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon6.gif

Wow, Chris that house project(back on page 1), pictures and template for cutting braces is very impressive. :D

Chris did you cut the plywood templates with the CW? What router and bit did you use to cut the profile on the fir braces? I have designed a small timber frame garden shed, and would like to have some curved detailed braces. I chipped my 3" long 1/2" router bit on the first pine knot that I encountered.

Below is my simple shed on CW.
Cheers
alpmeadow

[DocWheeler]

Chris,

That was a very nice upgrade to that house, looks like very good work!

[ChrisAlb]

Wow, Chris that house project(back on page 1), pictures and template for cutting braces is very impressive. :D

Chris did you cut the plywood templates with the CW? What router and bit did you use to cut the profile on the fir braces? I have designed a small timber frame garden shed, and would like to have some curved detailed braces. I chipped my 3" long 1/2" router bit on the first pine knot that I encountered.

Below is my simple shed on CW.
Cheers
alpmeadow

alpmeadow,

Nope. That was done some time before the CW. I Drew the templates in AutoCad, ran off full size 1:1 drawings on my plotter and used spray adhesive for the templates and my trusty jig saw to cut them.

A 2-1/2 HP DeWalt plunge router with both a 3 flute 1/2" straight and 1/2" up cutting spiral bits 3-1/2" long. Plunged 1/4" deep per pass until halfway through and then flipped them and started again....lol

After the cut was through I used a 1/2" x 3" flush trimmer to clean up any lips where the two cuts met in the middle. Then belt sand, palm sand and finished the edges with a 1/2" Roman Ogee.

Obviously there were many more tools and steps involved in making the rafters, ridges, headers, arches and drop posts. But that's how I shaped them. And oh, it's all jointed, mortise and tenoned together. The house you see the parts in was 50 miles from the job. I was doing a custom interior in that one through the winter and made the parts there.

This first picture is when I laid out the 8 pitch rafters with the arches and drop posts for the two smaller end roofs on the floor.....lol...just PRAYING it would all fit as it should on an old house 50 miles away. I did everything on that house. Exterior and interior. All new windows....yada yada....lol

Couple more pics...

[TerryT]

Chris, ole buddy ole pal! Why don'tcha come over and take a look at my carving machine. Oh, while your here could you take a minute to make my house look like that? LOL

[ChrisAlb]

Chris,

That was a very nice upgrade to that house, looks like very good work!

Thanks Ken,

As a total renovation, it was quite the project. One of my favorite ones to design and build. Sure wish the Ole back would let me do more of them. The CW is great but I miss the action and exceeding customer expectations.

And, I'm getting FAT behind this computer!! http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon9.gif

Terry, I could carve you one on the CW...http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

[liquidguitars]

After he looks at mine.. just the look i going for 2 :)

LG

[LollyWood]

Hey, I'll see your machine inspection, and raise you a show on the strip and bump you a pretty good back guy. ;)

Chris, all I want ya to do is come over and draw on my house w/ a magic marker so I'll know where the upgrades like that are pose to go.

OUTSTANDING Work my friend! Top shelf as always.

[ChrisAlb]

Thanks Bernie and everyone. That's kind of thing I've been doing for 30 years. Been self employed since age 15. It's in my blood. I think that's what I miss most about it, the satisfaction of standing back when it's done.

Man, this kinda makes me want to post the other couple thousand job photos...lol...http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif....That wasn't the nicest one.

A lot of folks say to their customers, "If you're not happy, I'm not happy". I always said "If I'M not happy, you're not happy"...lol

[TerryT]

Chris,
I don't know about anyone else but I'd like to see more pics.
Work like that needs to be seen my friend.

[ChrisAlb]

Chris,
I don't know about anyone else but I'd like to see more pics.
Work like that needs to be seen my friend.

This was an interesting one. My GC comes to me one day and asks....,

"Hey Chris, you think you could take this house (pic 1) and this pile of fresh cut 10 x 10 pine beams (pic 2) and make this place look like a Post & Beam house from the "inside"??.....You know, with all the joints, half-laps and dowels and stuff??"

I said..."GULP.....http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif.....Ummm...yea, I think I can do that...lol (pics 3, 4, 5)

I asked him, "do the beams need to shaped on the edges?" He said "nope, they want them square". So I said, well then, that should be EASY...LOL

Long before this, I had moved to doing almost exclusively, interior "trim" jobs in my "older age". Man! Trimming houses is getting heavy these days.

[TerryT]

Cool,
Man, that looks like a lot of work! Were the posts and beams a self supporting structure or was each one attached to the walls somehow?

[ChrisAlb]

Cool,
Man, that looks like a lot of work! Were the posts and beams a self supporting structure or was each one attached to the walls somehow?

Actually, Yes. A combination of both. Since all I had were studs to attach to, and these beams at 16' & wet wheighed....well....WAY too much! I decided to do the horizontal and vertical wall mains with half laps so I wasn't relying on the bolts.

I used 2 - 5" lag bolts in each of the laps to "hold" the horizontals to the wall while we put the verticals in place (pic 1). The rafters (pic 2) are bird mouthed around the top beam & basically slammed into place between the wall beam and ridge with a sledge hammer. Hey, no gaps please...lol

Yep buddy, I hurt after this one. I've had this back problem since I was 15. I think this job took 2 or 3 more years of working out of me...lol

[pkunk]

Nice work, Chris! I too, like working with big timber. My house, shop & garage are all 6x8 T&G log and I'm just finishing up this RV shed. The 16' 6x8's in the top plate are anchored to 6x8x36" corbels sitting on 6x6 posts.
At 66, I think this will be the last of my timber work, though.

[ChrisAlb]

That's really nice Paul.

I need one of them myself but fear "I" won't be building it. Had it not been for the Ole back, I'd still be swinging from the rafters and loving every minute...lol

[alpmeadow]

Chris too bad the back, keeps you away from custom timberbeam homes. I liked the simple upper decks and braced extensions, you built on the first house.

Now how to figure out how to load the
"3 flute 1/2" straight and 1/2" up cutting spiral bits 3-1/2" long" into the CW machine:twisted:

We have a timberframe company down the road that uses a hundegger machine with 3d computer controls to automatically cut all the mortise and tenon joints on the big timbers. This big type of CW costs well over a million dollars.:cool:
Cheers
alpmeadow

[ChrisAlb]

Chris too bad the back, keeps you away from custom timberbeam homes. I liked the simple upper decks and braced extensions, you built on the first house.

Now how to figure out how to load the
"3 flute 1/2" straight and 1/2" up cutting spiral bits 3-1/2" long" into the CW machine:twisted:

We have a timberframe company down the road that uses a hundegger machine with 3d computer controls to automatically cut all the mortise and tenon joints on the big timbers. This big type of CW costs well over a million dollars.:cool:
Cheers
alpmeadow


Yea...wouldn't it be nice to have one of them? And a shop big enough for it?...LOL My shop gets set up in the houses I'm doing...lol

[sweliver]

u da man!!!! Really, no sarcasm........you do great work.

The spine is a bad part of the body to mess up....as you well know.

sw

[TerryT]

Yah, my back is gone too. When I bend over each vertabrae goes it's own direction and I can't straighten up. Gotta come up a little, twist and turn to get one or too back where it belongs, come up a little more, etc. Sometimes they don't want to go back where they belong. Can't work on my knees anymore either. Man I hate old age. My brain still things its 20 something but the body retired long ago.

[TerryT]

OK, new bits are here. Completely checked the machine, double checking the mpcs for any problem I didn't notice and will recarve soon. I'm gonna have the wife hide my XD40 first, just incase it breaks another bit. Might be tempted to "teach it a lesson". LOL

[Digitalwoodshop]

u da man!!!! Really, no sarcasm........you do great work.

The spine is a bad part of the body to mess up....as you well know.

sw


YES, Chris has PEGGED my "WOW" Meter a few times in the last week with all the pictures of his projects, the work he did for me in .ptn's, and a joint venture we fell into..... More on that later but to put it lightly... Chris, U DA MAN....... Yo' Chris.....

Snicker.....


AL

[castingman]

Chrie/Al

You guys both due great work , Chris I have done some mason work on houses like that ,. Thats some great work ! I try to learn all that i can and you guys are an insperation to me .

Michael

[castingman]

Chris,

Sorry i messed up the name yesterday was my birthday and i"m not recovered yet !!

Michael

[ChrisAlb]

Chris,

Sorry i messed up the name yesterday was my birthday and i"m not recovered yet !!

Michael

WELL HAPPY BIRTHDAY MICHEAL....errr...MICHAEL!!

Hope you recover soon. Wouldn't want you around that hot metal in poor condition.

Still looking for SCOOT pictures buddy...lol I'm actually thinking of making mine my avatar. Sure is better to look at!

[castingman]

Chris,

I gotta remember to take the camera home ,
Feeling better today, to old for that crap....lol....

Thanks,,Michael

[Woodman]

There's a saying that's been going around for awhile and I hear it often working in hospitals: "Old age is not for sissies!" . Work with 70+ year olds all the time and you gain wisdom! Just wish the wisdom would SINK IN thru my 57 year olde cranium. . . *G*

[TerryT]

"Old age is not for sissies!"

I was trying to get in shape. Started joggin' and other foolishness. Knees gave out, thought I did some serious damage, went to the doctor and the above is what he told me! LOL

[fwharris]

I was trying to get in shape. Started joggin' and other foolishness. Knees gave out, thought I did some serious damage, went to the doctor and the above is what he told me! LOL

My doctor told me that OLD AGE is better than the alternative!

[Bill]

My doctor told me that OLD AGE is better than the alternative!

How does he know?

[Digitalwoodshop]

If a option window was expanded at the FLIP CUT PATH window to include options like Full Plunge Cut Path, and increments of depth cut paths that WE could select.

You can now have ANY Cut Path Choice you want as long as it is FULL DEPTH CUT PATH..... Any one YOU want.....

AL


THANK YOU LHR !!!!!!!!!! BEST UPDate EVER.

AL

[TerryT]

Al,
Since you live close to Chris, how about an update. I haven't heard from him in quite a while. How (and what) is he doing? Please tell him "HI" for me.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Terry,

Talked to him the other day. In a word "BUSY".... Good kind of busy !!!!

I will pass it on...

Thanks,

AL

[benluz]

About getting in shape, My father lifts weights at age 84 he uses a a high repetition work out, using 12 oz. liquid in a can...............lol.It seems to cheer him up.But his muscles are not getting any bigger.
Ben