cut out paths problems

[bdehoyos]

I have a project that has several cut out paths, but the small tabs that the machine leaves so the pieces will not separate from the main board are very small and break causing havoc, damaging the sand paper drive belts etc.

I’m using select pine that has very smooth surfaces.

The project is of a series of oval cut out shapes 9” by 4” on a 60 by 7 board.

Any ideas?

On another topic … if you stop the machine by pressing stop ( I do often to clean up a little with the vacuum) can you lift the compression rollers to do a better clean up job and would the machine then re measure the board to continue?

BDH

[Digitalwoodshop]

I have the same problem with pine breaking the tabs sometimes. I watch it and add masking tape to the areas as they exit the machine to help. If your chuck is worn and the bit wobbles some it can break the tabs. If you grab the tip of the 1/8 inch and wobble it, any movement you feel is slamming the cut out breaking the tabs.

Recently I changed my QC and every bit holder and it is solid and I have no cut out problems.

There was a theory that was mentioned that placing a dime on the right guide area where the bit touches could cause an thicker tab. Need to try it and see.

60 inch long project? Gravity? dropping the parts out. A solid surface support table on each side might help.

AL



AL

[bjbethke]

Sounds like you do not have a Down Draft system attached to clean the area below the board. With a 7 inch wide board you should have very little sawdust during your carve. You should be able to remove the loose pieces when the oval shape is cut and the machine moves to the next oval, just lift the cover to stop the machine. Or you can use a shorter board and cut one at a time.

[bdehoyos]

Thanks for the replies,

I don’t have a down draft so I stop the machine every 15 min to vacuum your idea to use smaller boards sound really good I think that might solve a lot.

Mi machine is a newborn, only 8 hr old , it does not have wobble but I do hear a vibration like sound at cutout time this happens some times not always, I fear that a couple of drops of lube from the flexshaft might have gotten on the bearing, I tried to clean it as best as I cold and I keep a close eye for QC over heating, the only symptom that I see is that sporadic vibration while cutouts. Is there a way to clean the bearings?

I do use support rollers for long boards.

[ChrisAlb]

Hmmm, I've never had a problem with the tabs breaking out on thier own. On this 7 foot long carve as you can see, there are many very small cut outs and they all stayed in place until I took them out.

[mtylerfl]

Another remote possibility is that the board might not be "perfectly" flat. Maybe where the tabs become too thin and letting loose is an area where the board may be slightly bowed upwards??? Hard to imagine that being the case due to the pressure exerted by the rollers, but nevertheless it might be a consideration.

I too, have not had a problem with the tabs "letting go" on their own. Kind of a mystery as to why you are having that occur.

Hopefully, you are not trying to manually assign a cutting bit or tamper with depth settings in any way for the automatic Cut Path. Interfering with that could cause problems. Do not manually assign a bit to an automatically generated cut path - the machine already assigns the 1/8" cutting bit with no user intervention at all.

[bdehoyos]

Another remote possibility is that the board might not be "perfectly" flat. Maybe where the tabs become too thin and letting loose is an area where the board may be slightly bowed upwards??? Hard to imagine that being the case due to the pressure exerted by the rollers, but nevertheless it might be a consideration.

I too, have not had a problem with the tabs "letting go" on their own. Kind of a mystery as to why you are having that occur.

Hopefully, you are not trying to manually assign a cutting bit or tamper with depth settings in any way for the automatic Cut Path. Interfering with that could cause problems. Do not manually assign a bit to an automatically generated cut path - the machine already assigns the 1/8" cutting bit with no user intervention at all.


I was very careful about the issues you mention, mi guess is that is has to do with the small vibration that I mentioned, I’ll give LHR a call, but my problem is that I’m at work, wood is usually my "weekends past the time thing" so it is difficult to do test with the machine at my garage while I’m at the office, and by the time I get home LHR is closed for the day. :confused:

[mtylerfl]

Just thought of something else...Al (Digitalwoodshop) mentioned he had occassionally experienced a tracking problem while the machine performed cut paths (rather rare). He now puts a strip of masking tape along the bottom edge of the board that rests on the brass sensor roller. It eliminates the problem apparently because it helps the board "track" better due to the extra "grip" between the roller and the tape on the board.

I don't necessarily think you're having a board tracking problem, but thought I'd throw that into the mix as another thing to try.

[ChrisAlb]

I've yet to add any tape to mine. I do have a piece on my sled as it's shelf board with a very smooth, hard and slippery surface. Never needed any on "wood" though.

[mtylerfl]

I've yet to add any tape to mine. I do have a piece on my sled as it's shelf board with a very smooth, hard and slippery surface. Never needed any on "wood" though.

Yep...same here...have not used tape and so far, have had no tracking problems with either of my machines.

[TIMCOSBY]

Thanks for the replies,

I don’t have a down draft so I stop the machine every 15 min to vacuum your idea to use smaller boards sound really good I think that might solve a lot.

Mi machine is a newborn, only 8 hr old , it does not have wobble but I do hear a vibration like sound at cutout time this happens some times not always, I fear that a couple of drops of lube from the flexshaft might have gotten on the bearing, I tried to clean it as best as I cold and I keep a close eye for QC over heating, the only symptom that I see is that sporadic vibration while cutouts. Is there a way to clean the bearings?

I do use support rollers for long boards.


but found out you don't need to. i did a 14 hour carve, turned it on and went to bed, came back next day to a nice 6'x13" dragon. the dust had just been compacted back into the carved areas by the rollers which exerted more down force. sooner or later you'll get an fatal error 400 from vacuuming too close to the keypad side. i think the designers of the cc intended it to be used this way or they would have done some kind of port for dust evacuation.

[Kenm810]

Projects slipping or stepping in the “X” Axis

Several of the hard wood projects I was carving where giving me some problems,
so I use the forum Search option to see what other folks had found,
at first I thought the “0” ring on the brass tracking sensor was going bad, it wasn’t.
Then I thought it must be the pressure rollers not being set right, 85Lb. perfect, not that.
I checked the traction belts, all was good there. Of course I checked the guide rails, no problems.
But while checking the wood, which all turned out to be flat, straight, and without any tapper or cupping at all,
I did find, was that my Planer puts a very smooth surface on many of the hard woods I was using
and left very little trace of the brass tracking roller even touching it.
The masking tape trick added a thin surface that the tracking roller could bite into and solved the problem completely,
so I’ve been using it on every project ever since.
I guess it just shows every machine just might be a little bit different or at least acts different depending on how you use it.

Ps. After getting a couple fatal error 400s while lifting the lid and vacuuming too close to the keypad side,
I stopped vacuuming the projects while the machine was turned on, plus because of the amount of SignFoam I carve
I've made a few modifications in how I carve with my machine,
that eliminates the need to stop the carving process to vacuum the project until it is completely done.

[ChrisAlb]

sooner or later you'll get an fatal error 400 from vacuuming too close to the keypad side.

We all know how "crazy" I am about vacuuming out my machine before, during and after every carve. I never saw any 400 (or any other) error on mine and I vacuum it from stem to stern constantly.

Just curious here Tim, are you sure your error was from vacuuming? I'm firmly convinced that keeping it clean is why I've "never" had "any" of the problems often discussed in here.

[Jeff_Birt]

Different shop vacs/DC systems will produce different amounts of static charge while in use. You can nearly eliminate any static problems while vacuuming if you always keep on hand on a metal part of the machine while using the vacuum. This keeps the vacuum, your body, and the machine all at the same electrical potential so no static charge can build up.

[ChrisAlb]

Well now that sure would explain it. Thanks Jeff! I've often wondered why I don't seem to get any static build up as others have noticed.

What you just explained describes almost exactly what I do when vacuuming.

[bdehoyos]

Hi Jeff.

I assume that you are referring to stopping every now and then to vacuum.

I’m an IT person so I understand the need for grounding when working with electronics, I use, as a rule, a grounding wrist that attached to my wrist and to the machine, just in case I let go of the machine I’m not completely apart from it.

Also during carvings I try to only vacuum in between the drive belts and on the drive belts next to the project (opposite side of the control pad) but is this is a malpractice I’ll change my evil ways.

Btw
What is a 400 error?

BDH

[TIMCOSBY]

Different shop vacs/DC systems will produce different amounts of static charge while in use. You can nearly eliminate any static problems while vacuuming if you always keep on hand on a metal part of the machine while using the vacuum. This keeps the vacuum, your body, and the machine all at the same electrical potential so no static charge can build up.

that but i could still feel the hairs on my arm from the static.

[TIMCOSBY]

We all know how "crazy" I am about vacuuming out my machine before, during and after every carve. I never saw any 400 (or any other) error on mine and I vacuum it from stem to stern constantly.

Just curious here Tim, are you sure your error was from vacuuming? I'm firmly convinced that keeping it clean is why I've "never" had "any" of the problems often discussed in here.

90% of the time by going close on purpose just to see if that was it. i havent had one since i quit vacuuming while its on. my machine is filthy and keeps on carving and scanning i hear everyone saying you have ot keep it spotless but it hasn't been the case for me.

[TIMCOSBY]

i don't think no one knows what any of the error are but the 400 one is fatal and you have to start over.

[TIMCOSBY]

"Also during carvings I try to only vacuum in between the drive belts and on the drive belts next to the project "


the shavings cant get under your board they either fall between the drive belt or are carried to the front of the machine and dumped out. what stays on the board just get compacted by the top rollers which only apply down force. i was the same as you guys befor i decided to do the 14 carve and leave it alone. the shaving that were not compacted and taken out with the board had built up almost ot the top of the acrylic door with no problems at all. try it you might like it.

[ChrisAlb]

Dust & Chips, electroinc circuts, plastic gears & toothed belts, sensors, servos, open vent cut motor.... yada yada yada......

Being a mechanic, computer builder and wearer of many other hats, I'll play it safe and keep it clean....LOL