Flexshaft Sheath

[andes]

Has anyone tried repairing the fleshaft sheath yet? If so how? Is there like some sort of gasket material that you can use?

Andes

[rstudley]

I think once that sheath is compromised you're smart to replace it before the core is ruined somehow, which happened to me. The cost of the sheath is just $35, the cost of the whole flexarm is $75.

[andes]

Well, I did purchase and new flex cable, and I had to purchase the whole flexarm for $75.
I asked if you could just get the sheath, but was told no. I sure hope this doesn't have to be replaced to often -- could be costly. LOL The sheath melted in the middle, can't seem to figure out what happened.

Do you know if the replacement has to be lub before use, or do the lub before sending it to you. I need to do that today if it needs to be done. Also, how long do I need to wait before I use it after I lub it?

Thanks

Ande

[AskBud]

See if this helps:
AskBud

[rstudley]

Can anybody link me to a procedure for opening the back panel to get at the motor end of the flexarm to replace it? "SEARCH" yields nothing, and I'm waiting for tech support to open this morning.

[AskBud]

See if this helps.
AskBud

[Jeff_Birt]

Instead of reposting the same PDF files over and over again, how about we just link to the troubleshooting PDF thread where they all live?

http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2073

[Kenm810]

Great idea Jeff, Thanks

Just link to the troubleshooting PDF thread where they all live!

[rstudley]

Thanks for the help in getting the cover off. Do you have a PDF for tightening the cutting truck?



PS--- after hunting around a bit I found this PDF, that has what I needed:


http://www.carvebuddy.com/PDFs/CarveWright_service_z-truck_Replacement.pdf

[leesheridan]

In reading the instructions for lubing the shaft I noticed that the cleaning aspect is not mentioned. I have a container about the size of a large coffee can that I keep a cleaner in. When I pull the shaft out I just put it in the container and let it soak and every once in a while I shake the container. Once it's clean I then use the air hose to spray away all cleaner before I relube the shaft. As far as the sheth, I use the same cleaner in it. When I get something new that has to be assembled and there are plastic covers on the bolt threads that have to be taken off I always keep them for stuff like this. I put a cover on one end of the sheth and spray the cleaner into the sheth. I place another cover on the other end and then work the sheth back and forth so that the entire inside gets cleaned. After all is cleaned and relubed then I reassemble. If you don't clean the parts then all you're doing is spraying lube over dirty lube. And after a while your doing more harm than good by not cleaning first.

[mtylerfl]

Hi Mike,

What is the actual cleaner you are using?

[Amonaug]

I would think cleaner would damage the rubber the sheath is made of.

[Kenm810]

I've only had the sheath complete off the machine a couple of times.
When I did I ran a few of Barb's extra large craft style pipe cleaners in one end and out the other several times to see
what would come out -----BBBLLLaaaa !! --- it wasn't pretty, I keep it up till the pipe cleaners came out clean.
It seemed like a safe way to clean the Sheath at the time.

[leesheridan]

Sorry I took so long getting back. Going back to my missile working days I am using a mild electical cleaner. One that will not melt rubber. So, any on the the shelf that says that it is safe on rubber will work. Once I started using the cleaner the shaft alone looks and seems to help keep the heat down longer. If you are using a lithium lube then you must realize that just putting lube on top of more lube is adding to the the problem after a while and the same with moly lubricants. It hasn't damaged the sheth as of yet and I have added this procedure as a part of the machines PM.

[leesheridan]

I've only had the sheath complete off the machine a couple of times.
When I did I ran a few of Barb's extra large craft style pipe cleaners in one end and out the other several times to see
what would come out -----BBBLLLaaaa !! --- it wasn't pretty, I keep it up till the pipe cleaners came out clean.
It seemed like a safe way to clean the Sheath at the time.

You might consider using a gun cleaning rod or a "gun snake".

[leesheridan]

Something I have done to make things easier on me when it comes to removing the flex shaft assembly and also for checking the tension on the truck belt is to drill a hole into the cover directly over the screws that hold these parts in place. It saves me the time of removing the cover. It's just the size of a #2 screw driver. I know it isn't written in any of the books or any where on the forum that I have noticed but it sure helps and I just use a rubber gromet to slip back in the hole when I'm done as if it was really needed but I do it any way. Its the same type of gromet that might be used on the firewall of a car and can be found at an auto parts store. It just comes down to a small hole in a black piece of plastic to make my work easier and nothing gets broken. I suffered with the bit sensor problem just like most everyone else. I tried the part about filing down the roller cover and that didn't solve anything. And when you think long and hard it really isn't the proper fix for it to begin with. The only thing I have found that truely fixes the bit sensor error is to make sure the screw is tight. Well if it was loose then the tension on the belt is off. So then you have to make sure the truck belt has the right amount of tension on it. It worked. I don't know what the proper tension that belt should have but I just trial and errored it. Just tighting it just alittle at a time. When the sensor flips out like it should then you have it. If you over do it then you go through belts I suppose but I'm still on my first belt and nothing else has fallen apart. And who amoung us hasn't got wood to knock on.

[Kenm810]

Mike,

Those are all good bits of info that I plan to add to my what if - list
Thanks for Sharing

[leesheridan]

Ken, would it be possible to get this thread moved to the right area of the forum?
I received the material that was mentioned in an earlier post regarding the free Dow Corning Dry Film Lubricant 321. I have used alot of commerical materials in the missile world and have relied on MSDS sheets. But this material is something else. Dow is very serious about the potential hazards with this material. So, if anyone has or will be using said material I hope you read the MSDS data online at Dows website.
Also in using this material it also says to make sure you spray it on a cleaned and dry surface. There once again speaking to the cleaning of the shaft.

[Kenm810]

Hi Mike,

I'm sure the posts could be moved,
but it would have ot be done by one of the Volunteer Moderators
that help this Forum run so smoothly.
I'm just a member like everyone else,
who reads the Forum and post when I can.

[leesheridan]

Thanks Ken. I know it would get noticed by more being in the right place and I didn't know how. But thanks for coming through.