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shabby
06-14-2008, 09:44 PM
I have a section of an old headboard I want to carve on. The top of the piece is curvy - not square.

I tried to attach it to a skate (sled?) - a square piece of wood to create 4 flat sides - but the machine still will not accept it.

Am I doing this right? What is the correct way to carve onto something without squared edges?

thanx.

Kenm810
06-14-2008, 11:05 PM
shabby,

Your Sled is going to need side rails and end filler pieces so the machine can measure the length and with of your project.
Ken (Doc Wheeler) did a Great tips and tricks article for the CW new letter that shows
and explains how to use several different types of Sleds and Carrier boards.
Have a look I'm sure you'll find the info you need.
ISSUE 7 April 2008 – Carving Jigs – Carrier Boards, Sleds and Rails (http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWrightTips&Tricks_Apr08.pdf)
Ps. Welcome to the CW Forum

shabby
06-15-2008, 11:21 AM
I did go through all of that. Here's what I am wondering.

Since I have the piece attached to a thin piece of square ply - what if I attach another piece of thin ply to the top - making a sandwich.

Then I can set the carving depth to cut thru the top thin ply and into the piece.

Think that will work?

The piece I am cutting is one of a kind and I have to be sure whatever I do is gonna work before I attempt it.

Kenm810
06-15-2008, 12:10 PM
Be sure the parts that make up your sandwich don't move or shift or all would be lost. Trying something new as you suggest, should be tested on a few pieces of scrap first, just to be on the safe side. I've not read of or seen a project carved in the machine quite like that before. It may be possible that someone on the forum has, or it just might be a first. I think I would look for a few positive recommendations before attempting that manner of carving on a one of a kind object or artifact.

shabby
06-15-2008, 12:22 PM
Thanx, Ken.

I attached the squared piece with 3/4" brads using my pneumatic nailer - so the pieces are secure.

Guess I will go make a sandwich out of some scrap and see what happens.

That is, after I deal with the dreaded "clear board sensor" issue that just popped up. Reading about how to deal with that now.

Hoping it's something to do with the low light factor and carving on a dark piece - as opposed to getting in there and really cleaning it.

It popped up yesterday when I was carving on a dark green piece of wood and sure enuf - I tried another piece of white painted wood and Voila! No problem.

shabby
06-15-2008, 02:27 PM
Well I'll beeeeeeeeeee

Just tried to cut the same pattern on a lighter piece of wood and the CW went right to town!

Good lighting and the color of the substrate definitely seem to be factors!

Dan-Woodman
06-15-2008, 04:11 PM
How about a piece of 1/16" baltic birch for the top sandwich?
later Daniel

shabby
06-15-2008, 04:14 PM
Excellent. Heading out tomorrow to buy some.

Thank you!

Digitalwoodshop
06-15-2008, 05:07 PM
Masking tape is your friend... Use that.

AL

shabby
06-15-2008, 07:12 PM
How so, Al?

eromran
06-15-2008, 09:27 PM
How so, Al?Al can answer this way better than me but if you will look at some of his past post what he is probally was talking about is taping along edge closest to keypad to give the bras roller something extra to grip to also it can hold your project to carrier board also helps with measuring board when you tape along edges. Look at some of Al's past post you find something on what he is talking about and the rest will still be educational. Hope this helps.

liquidguitars
06-16-2008, 02:00 AM
I run into odd shapes for a lot of projects building my guitars and have found that if you load the sled's front tail "the extra 4" direct under the center of board sensor during the startup cycle, you will not need to cover or mask anything. The sensor will only see the sleds wood end as it locates the Y not the center of the sled.


LG

shabby
06-16-2008, 08:10 AM
Oh, I get it! I was not actually adding extra framing around the piece - just putting a square pice down that extended to all of the edges. Thanx! I think I am seeing the light.

Question - while I have all of you honored Senior Members here :-D

Is there a way to flip an entire saved pattern? When I layed it out on the computer I realiazed I'd really like it upside down to fit the carving in the piece I am cutting it on.

Rather than do it all over again - can I flip the whole thing? I tried to use the flip option but it only flips each carving in it's place. I want to spin the whole layout. Hope I am making this clear.

TIA - you guys really are a huge help. :mrgreen:

Amonaug
06-16-2008, 11:49 AM
Why not just flip the stock you are going to carve into, seems that would be easier.

shabby
06-16-2008, 11:55 AM
Hi Kevin
The piece already has a carving on it and I need to work around that. It is a section of a Victorian twin footboard.

Amonaug
06-16-2008, 12:27 PM
Hi Kevin
The piece already has a carving on it and I need to work around that. It is a section of a Victorian twin footboard.


Right, but you want to flip the whole carving. Essentially flipping the footboard would amount to the same thing and be much easier would it not?

shabby
06-16-2008, 01:31 PM
When I lined up the pattern with the software I registered it around the carving on the footboard. the carving is only on one side so I have to carve onto that side.

I was hoping if I could flip my entire pattern the CW would pick up the squared dimensions along the bottom of the piece - because the bottom is squared - the top is scrolled.

That is why I'm trying to see if I can flip the design with the software and them upload that onto the card. Then I can flip my piece and all should follow in place.

shabby
07-01-2008, 07:59 AM
Finally got this project done! Thanx for all of your suggestions.

I broke down and manually flipped the carving on the computer to match the piece.

Instead of adding a top layer of wood I used heavy stock computer paper! Just covered the scrolled sectons of the ends with paper.

Had to make some slight additions to the sandwich by adding little blocks of wood same thickness as the carving piece between my bottom "sled" and the paper so the probe would not press down past the depth of the wood when measuring the piece.

My layout is a tad off center :-( but for my first try at this I am pretty happy!
Trying to post a pic - hope this works.

http://www.vendio.com/my/ihost/standard.html

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:00 AM
Dang! Working on that pic :-(

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:15 AM
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o58/shabbytown/CHFTBRD_0005G500.jpgttp://[/IMG]

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:18 AM
There it is! This is a footboard from a Victorian wraparound bed. The paint is in as found condition.

Trust me guys, this is very popular with the Ladies! ;)

Took it all apart - carved the center section - luckily it was in two pieces - then took a little liberty with the reconstruction and flipped the center when re-assembling.

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:23 AM
This is the headboard from the same bed.

http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o58/shabbytown/JARDINE_01JDFg.jpg

Router-Jim
07-01-2008, 08:27 AM
Not too shabby! LOL :mrgreen:

That turned out very nice. I can see why it is very popular. You chose the perfect font for that piece. Good job. :cool:

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:32 AM
Blushing - thank you, Jim. Actually can't recall what is was at the moment.

That is my fav - vivaldi, on the headboard.

I also learned to get the full curve of the front of the J you have to put a "space or 2" in front of it or it always cuts it off. I had to do a little paint magic on the headboard.

Do you know of any way to import fonts?

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:34 AM
Ooops - this isn't the piece. You CAN actually see where it cut off some of the "J". I fixed it up on a later piece. Didn't want to mess with this one.

Router-Jim
07-01-2008, 08:43 AM
My guess on the headboard is that the board did not have enough length to both stay under rollers and carve the loop of the "J". I probably would have used a sled with at least 3 1/2"s on each end and then chosen the "center to length" option.

Someone who is more computer smart will have to help you on importing fonts. It's "suppose" to be easy. :rolleyes:

shabby
07-01-2008, 08:48 AM
lol - easy - yeh - right!

Actually - I fooled around a lot with the J. Every time I used it - no matter what - it did that. Even on long skinny signs.

I did figure out one work around with fonts but it's a pain.

I create the text on my photo imaging software and then upload it like a pattern.

It works - but it's an extra step and would love to find a way to just upload an entire folder of new fonts. Maybe they will address that issue next.

Well, it's off to work. Only in the high 80's today - freezing! lol!

Amonaug
07-01-2008, 11:40 AM
Fonts are easy to install, at least for a windows machine...no idea about Mac's

Go to Start>Control Panel>Fonts>File> Install New Font

and just point it to where you saved the font.

shabby
07-01-2008, 11:47 AM
Fonts are easy to install, at least for a windows machine...no idea about Mac's

Go to Start>Control Panel>Fonts>File> Install New Font

and just point it to where you saved the font.

Thanx, Kevin. Now for the moron question of the day - where do I find fonts to save? Is there a website where I can download them from?

TIA

shabby
07-01-2008, 11:49 AM
neverrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrminnnnnnnnnnnnnd

just found a bunch - thank you sooo much!

m