Z Truck Replacement

[jerrbitt]

Well after fooling aroung with the close cover issue after replacing the cut motor. and checking the continuity of the close cover switches, and running all the associated tests, and reading just about every post on the Close Cover issue, LHR is convinced that I have a problem with the magnet in the Z Truck.

Tried to convince them to send me the the part and I would install it, I do have the PDF file they provide for replacement, but apparently, they have a new policy that they must replace the assembly if it is still under warranty amd if I want to keep the warranty intact.

Rats -- going to be out of carving business for two to three weeks they tell me.

But I do want to take the time to thank all those who responded to my original posts about the Close Cover issue.

[Audie]

My CW is at LHR right now getting a new Z Truck. Like you I was hoping to do the repair myself but not so according to LHR IF I wanted to maintain my warranty.....twiddling my fingers waiting now.

[rstudley]

I have just fixed a problem with the CW and will post so others can be on the lookout.

The u-shaped wire that rides the outside of the flexarm is attached at the cutter end by a black rubber collar 1/2" wide, under which the ends of the wire are glued. In the process of detaching the flexshaft to lubricate the core, I pulled hard on the flexshaft end, and the two support-wire ends broke loose from the glue and started to poke out and stick down from the collar. They then caught on the inside edge of the slot in the top of the castle, where the flexarm goes into the machine and travels back and forth with the head. This caused a shutdown z-axis stall message.

I've wrapped tape around the collar area now to keep the ends in place, but once that glue holding the wires under that rubber collar has let go, the angle of the wire isn't the same as it was--- and now the wire doesn't support and guide the flexarm as nicely as it did earlier.

By spot checking that area, you can avoid causing z-axis stall and damaging your machine--- particularly if you have had to detach the flexarm to lubricate. I now have several notches at "home position" in the edge of the slot, where the truck muscled that protruding wire end right through the plastic before it shut down.

UPDATE: those wire ends are a real problem now tape doesn't hold, I'm going to try a pipe clamp. There is appx. 0" clearance to the edge of the slot. Anybody run into the same problem?

[Digitalwoodshop]

We are talking about the stiff wire that supports the rubber flex drive cable right? If so then you might be in for a fight to secure it property. There is a lot of tension on it.

If I were to do a repair like this I would take a lesson from a Fly Rod maker.... Use fine nylon thread and wrap mutable times and use some type of glue that soaks into the threads. The hose clamp has too much mass and is likely to jam in the top cover slot possibly breaking the Z housing at the bearings.

The other option is to buy a replacement.... I just got 2.... Wanted a Spring but they damage too easily in shipping so only sold as a unit.

Good Luck,

AL

[rstudley]

Yes, the problem is the two ends of the guide/U wire that rides outside the sleeve of the flexarm. I have a small pipe clamp around the collar area now, just above the coupling and that is working well. Tape just heated up and fell off. I had to trim the inside of the slot to allow the pipe clamp to travel the length of the housing. It is a sad sight on that new machine, but is functioning.

You don't often see an adhesive holding metal to rubber in a high-temp area which strikes me as a bit of underdesign, considering the force that is needed to uncouple the flexarm from the truck for lubrication.

[jackssib1]

Bit took a dive,,lol all the way trough board, seem the motor is froze up, can't pull it up with hand. ??
Jack:confused::mad:

[Ron Baird]

The rubber band around the wires is a heavy heat shrink used for insulating wire connections. You should check the coupling where the cable plugs into the head as it should require that much force to remove and replace the cable. the top hat on the head can be removed by removing the two screws without getting you into any trouble. there is a little ball detent in it that may be jamming and not releasing the cable.

[rstudley]

I will keep the advice about loosening the screws on the little tophat in mind. There is no way it should take all my strength to detach the flexarm out of that coupling, and doing so to lubricate really beat up that end of the flexshaft.
Now, the wire that's free-riding inside the rubber flexarm sleeve caught on the wire that is wrapped around the core itself, and tangled itself into a shutdown. I am waiting for a new part (not under warranty).

[rstudley]

The motor end of my flexshaft would not disengage from the motor, to replace the flexshaft. I drilled a hole in the exposed end of the collar that fits into the motor with the two tabs, which had broken off of the old flexarm, and then I muscled it out of the connector. One tab has melted inside the connection, which was why it was stuck--- so I can't install my replacement flexarm.

[rstudley]

Figuring there was little left to foul up, I've pulled the motor out and picked away at the melted end of the flexarm in the socket until it was clean, then reinstalled the motor. Then I took apart the tophat assy on the cutter truck connection, and found the bits of torn up spring inside that, cleaned it out and put a dab of lithium lube inside the connector near the ball bearing in hopes it will make the arm easier to detatch next time. I've reassembled everything and am running a rip cut to test it out. After a few minutes it is still running cool, which is encouraging.