lying to the machine? (Bits)

[hetzerguitars]

Anyone else ever lie to the machine regarding bits? For example, instead of using the 1/8" to rip using the 3/8" and just doing the math?

I starting to use the machine for my riping and jointing. 1" boards of poplar or spalted maple etc.. Only soft, nothing hard. But I've broken two 1/8" bits in the last few weeks and now I am just more comfortable using a 1/2" shaft bit to cut more than a 1/4".

Anyone else ?

- Jim

[liquidguitars]

yes, but give her flowers and candy to make up..

I hate snaping 1/8 cut bits...

LG

[bizbiki]

Everytime I use the 1/8 cutting bit to cut a project out it seems that it makes the cw work alot harder than it wants to. And I always seem to have a hard time getting that particular bit out, like its really jammed up in the chuck.

I wore out a qc chuck after using the bit to cut out a few projects in rock maple (maybe not the smartest thing to even use in the cw, but it was sure pretty) although it could be a coincidence.

Louie

[Jeff_Birt]

The problem is that the feeds and speeds are based on the bit. I use the cut-path feature all the time and have yet to break a single 1/8" bit. If you are trying to cut stock without staying under rollers, or are using long stock without additional support rollers then the board could be tipping and breaking the bit.

Also, the built in jointing operation is already set up for the 3/8" (jointing) bit.

[mtylerfl]

Yep, I have never broken an 1/8" bit either (or any other bit for that matter) - I too suspect that "not staying under rollers" is a possible cause of broken bits for some users. LHR recommends that projects must "Stay Under Rollers" especially when performing cut paths.

[ChrisAlb]

I have to agree. Never once broke a bit. Still on the original. Before the latest software update that limits the depth of cut to .8, I cut things out of 1" thick Brazilian Cherry without missing a beat.

Some months ago doing an accuracy test, I cut 1.5" circles out of pre-finished Cherry flooring. I used both the cut path and drill functions and it cut just fine.

By the way, the accuracy impressed me. I cut two 1.5" holes. One with the cut path and one with the drill function. I took the "cut path" one and flipped it to cut a 1.5" plug. The plug fit almost perfectly in both holes. Less than a 1/32 gap. Very Cool!

[liquidguitars]

Guess you guys need to push the unit a bit more... :rolleyes:

I have snapped 7 over the 400+ hrs. some of the snaps from a bad Z pack early on, some from not making tabs in my projects.. I now use the carving bit 90% of the time..

LG

[oldjoe]

Broke two well one the other one gravity had a part in it. Stayed under rollers but the board edge that rides on the brass encoder wheel had a flaw on it so I was getting the stair steping feature. Was running that Akudar or what ever it was call ( crabwood, B^^^^D mahogony) are the nick names for it.

[ChrisAlb]

Guess you guys need to push the unit a bit more... :rolleyes:

I have snapped 7 over the 400+ hrs. some of the snaps from a bad Z pack early on, some from not making tabs in my projects.. I now use the carving bit 90% of the time..

LG

Or perhaps you're pushing yours a "bit" too hard?? lol

[Router-Jim]

I've lied to the machine a few times. Mainly when the designer program does not contain the bit profile that I have on hand. I always chose the bit that matches the closest. It's not something I like openly discussing in front of the newbies though. ;)

[sxemike]

What about lying....the other way. Which bit has the slowest feed/speed? I could see how that might be easier on the CW with heavier wood or plastic.

[sxemike]

What about lying....the other way? Which bit has the slowest feed/speed? I could see how that might be easier on the CW with heavier wood or plastic.

[oldjoe]

One quick tip I guess you could call it that just remember the lie you told it. So when it calls for the bit you are lying about during the running of the project you put in the right bit otherwise you will really mess with its wee little mind. ;)

[Dan-Woodman]

OK I admit ,I lie to her.
When I drill 1/4" adjustable shelf pin holes in the sides of cabinets, I use the 1/4" bit .
When I design the project in designer , I tell it to drill 1/8" holes, then just install a 1/4" bit when it asks for the 1/8".
The reason I started this in the first place was that in the begining it drill oval holes,until they fixed the software problem. Its also a little faster. I use a 1/4" spiral endmill.

I would like to see the 1/4" bit added to the software so I wouldn't have to lie to her and I could use the 1/8" and a 1/4" bit in the same project without haveing to remember which bit I substituted.

later Daniel

[oldjoe]

I do the same only I have been using a 1/4" screw machine length drill bit worked well for me. My other common lie is when I put in text sometimes in designer (centerline) I leave it as the 90 deg. bit but when I load the project into the machine I install a 60 deg. bit The lettering comes out a little shallower works great for small text.