not-so-quick chuck

[sxemike]

I ordered a new QC chuck and the tools to put it in. I tried and broke the square bit that I bought from CW. I made a new one by grinding an old 1/4" extension down. I still can't get the thing loose. I heated the chuck a little at first and nothing. I heated it again this time, way more than I should have and it still won't move.
Is there something that I'm missing? Are there any other tricks to getting the QC off?

[Kenm810]

sxemike,

Take a look at this Thread from the other day
a little Acetone might help -- but don't get it on anything else

To Loctite or not to Loctite... (http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7212&highlight=acetone) post #12

[sxemike]

It's funny....I've been reading that thread for the past couple of days and never noticed anything but heat.

Is it best to use straight acetone or would nail-polish remover work?

[Kenm810]

I use only straight acetone in the shop and buy it in gallon cans,
It's also available pints and quarts I believe.

I've never tried nail polish remover for anything
Maybe someone how has, can answer that one better then I could.

[sxemike]

I'll let you know tomorrow...

[Digitalwoodshop]

Direction..... While holding the top square drive with the left hand and using the wrench to loosen the QC it's Right to Left to unscrew the QC.... I got confused once and looked at my regular router for guidance on the fly to turn it in the correct direction.... Just a thought.... I shot the heat up into the QC with a deflector for shrinking heat shrink tubing. A metal plate directing the heat might help.

AL

[Jeff_Birt]

I heated the chuck a little at first and nothing. I heated it again this time, way more than I should have and it still won't move.

I think most folks are afraid of applying enough heat to get the job done...

A 'little' heat won't cut it. Use heat gun about 5" away from the chuck pointed slightly downward so that you are directing the heat to the top of the chuck and not at the spindle bearing. Let the heat gun point at the same place for about 10 seconds and then SLOWLY turn the chuck to allow the chuck to heat evenly. Do this for 1 minute. Try to loosen; remember the ground down Allen wrench on top will be going counter clockwise, and the chuck clockwise when viewed from the top. If it will not come loose heat for an additional 20 seconds while rotating the chuck and try again. Keep heating and trying until it comes loose.

[sxemike]

I think most folks are afraid of applying enough heat to get the job done...

A 'little' heat won't cut it. Use heat gun about 5" away from the chuck pointed slightly downward so that you are directing the heat to the top of the chuck and not at the spindle bearing. Let the heat gun point at the same place for about 10 seconds and then SLOWLY turn the chuck to allow the chuck to heat evenly. Do this for 1 minute. Try to loosen; remember the ground down Allen wrench on top will be going counter clockwise, and the chuck clockwise when viewed from the top. If it will not come loose heat for an additional 20 seconds while rotating the chuck and try again. Keep heating and trying until it comes loose.

I used a small butane heat gun that can direct the heat exactly where I want it. I put the heat directly on the threads until it was pretty hot. I don't think I could safely get it any hotter. I just picked up some acetone from CVS. I'll try it when I get home from work. If that doesn't work, I'll turn up the heat.

[Jeff_Birt]

You don't want to heat the threads (spindle shaft), you want to heat the chuck. You need to heat the chuck evenly all the way around.

[forqnc]

I used a small butane heat gun that can direct the heat exactly where I want it. I put the heat directly on the threads until it was pretty hot. I don't think I could safely get it any hotter. I just picked up some acetone from CVS. I'll try it when I get home from work. If that doesn't work, I'll turn up the heat.

Be careful with to much heat, as there is a plastic piece on the chuck which I managed to melt one time :rolleyes:
Good Luck

[sxemike]

You don't want to heat the threads (spindle shaft), you want to heat the chuck. You need to heat the chuck evenly all the way around.

Not directly on the threads...I heated the chuck.

I tried again last night....no luck

I tried the acetone(100%)...no luck
I tried more heat again with no luck. I'm kind of at a loss here. I've used heat before on lock-tite with no problems.(on my old buick)
I must be doing something wrong. I'm almost ready to cut the chuck off with a dremel. Any more Ideas before I try that?

[mwildes]

I've had to change mine twice, and it took a few extra bowls of Wheaties to get the job done. I had the tools from CarveWright.

1) After several days of attempting and failing to break the threads loose, and emails to CW, and reading these posts, I recruited help.

2) Used a hair dryer on high for about 10 minutes aimed directly at the QC.

3) Used a 2 foot pipe on the flat wrench.

4) Had my 24 year old son hold a 2 foot foot pipe on the allen wrench.

5) Strained, pulled, clenched, and pulled some more.........

6) It broke loose!

7) The second time wasn't as bad, since when I replaced the first QC, I applied just 3 drops of Lok-Tite, which is plenty to lock the threads.

Moral of the story: keep trying and get help if needed, a box of Wheaties and or a can or two of spinach.

[sxemike]

I just called Tech support....same answers more heat and more torque

I'm worried about melting something that I shouldn't. Without any extensions, I'm breaking the tools. More torque will just make it easier to break the tools. (sorry, I'm not trying to be a smartass)

I'll keep trying....I think I'm going to be buying the Z-truck next. ~$80
I don't know what else to do.

[Kenm810]

sxemike,

Just wondering how old is your machine, I didn't notice if you mentioned when you bought it, If you got it from LHR, Sears or one of the other CW Dealers and your under 200 hours of carving time or 1 year old. You normally would still be covered by LHR's factory warranty the covers shipping both ways plus parts and labor. After all if anything does break Tech support is suggesting more heat and more torque

[sxemike]

Sadly....I got it off ebay. ebay=no warranty.

I've only had it a month or 2 and it has less than 10.


On the plus side I can put $800 into it and still come out ahead of what I would have paid at sears or LHR.

[sxemike]

I cut the plastic piece off so I wouldn't melt it. Then heated the chuck. Then tried the LHR suggested method:

LHR:
"maybe you could like hold the wrench and like put the square tool in one of those things like a ratchet you know?"

Me:
"A breaker bar?

LHR:
"yea and then like hit it with like a rubber mallet"

Me:
"so if this doesn't work, would I have to replace the whole Z-pack?"

LHR:
"yea you could do that"

I broke 2 more square bit last night. I'm almost convinced that someone welded the QC on there.(not really)

I think I'm just going to buy a whole new Z-pack.... I'll call LHR again and see what they suggest.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Make sure you are turning it the right way. Holding the top the bottom spins right to left.... Just like a router chuck... Just had to say that because "I" got confused the first time. Remove the top hat on the spindle with the 2 screws if you haven't to get better access.

Someone suggested "Acetone" on the threads. Nail Polish remover.... Cover your sand paper belts and don't get any on the Z belts. Use a glass eye dropper to put some on the top of the QC.

Bet the first owner used RED thread lock....

The first generation of RJustice square drive sometimes broke like the one I had. Someone said the Square Drive is a #3 at Home Depot... Never looked....

Rjustice makes a great wrench and square drive set making it EASY.

Try directing the hot air up the inside of the QC with a piece of metal. PROTECT the Z Belt from heat.... I melted one.....

All the things "I" did WRONG helping others..... To Error is Human..... Telling everyone your ERROR.... Well that is DUMB.... Unless they can learn from your mistakes.... LOL....

Good Luck,

AL

[SAA3840]

sxemike,

Just wondering how old is your machine, I didn't notice if you mentioned when you bought it, If you got it from LHR, Sears or one of the other CW Dealers and your under 200 hours of carving time or 1 year old. You normally would still be covered by LHR's factory warranty the covers shipping both ways plus parts and labor. After all if anything does break Tech support is suggesting more heat and more torque

Just so you know, I sent my machine back yesterday, 160hrs and only five months old and LHR would NOT pay for the shipping. "Policy changes". The first trip back they did pay shipping, not this time.


As far as getting a stuck QC off, I spent a couple of hours with the heat gun and wrenchs. After twisting off two ground down allen wrenches, and having the QC outside shell melt, I gave up and removed the Z truck. Then I pressed out the QC shaft, cut off the old QC, cleaned up the threads a bit, and then reinstalled everything.

Unfortunately, the "New" QC I installed had something wrong with it, it never did load a bit properly. The cocking collar wouldn't go all the way up. It finally came apart, scattering itself all over the inside of my machine.

[Amonaug]

Just so you know, I sent my machine back yesterday, 160hrs and only five months old and LHR would NOT pay for the shipping. "Policy changes". The first trip back they did pay shipping, not this time.


As far as getting a stuck QC off, I spent a couple of hours with the heat gun and wrenchs. After twisting off two ground down allen wrenches, and having the QC outside shell melt, I gave up and removed the Z truck. Then I pressed out the QC shaft, cut off the old QC, cleaned up the threads a bit, and then reinstalled everything.

Unfortunately, the "New" QC I installed had something wrong with it, it never did load a bit properly. The cocking collar wouldn't go all the way up. It finally came apart, scattering itself all over the inside of my machine.

I have to ask, did you lube the new QC before using it?

[Tom75]

i should be getting the my new qc and z-truck roller rod , cam roller wrench-adjrollersand the tools to do it before i put the new qc on do i lube it a little with 3and 1 oil? . on another note i cant say enuff how great every one is on here . all have a good day

[Jeff_Birt]

I just took a look at CW's warranty policy which is available under the FAQ section on the main website: http://www.carvewright.com/cms/faq.



The CarveWright warranty covers parts and labor for one full year or 200 hours of cutting. The warranty excludes consumable items such as bits, sandpaper drive belts, and flexshafts. The machine tracks cutting time for
this purpose. Shipping costs are not covered under the warranty. Our service center is located in Houston, TX. There is a 30-day return period after which no returns are accepted. There is also a restocking fee for returned machines.

The warranty does not cover commercial or industrial use.


There is a more verbose version of this in my machines manual as well. So, it seems that CW has not changed their policy, but rather has been extremely generous in many situations and has footed the shipping bill. From my experience with other equipment this seems like a pretty standard deal, you have to pay to ship to them, they pay to ship back.

[SAA3840]

I have to ask, did you lube the new QC before using it?

Now that you mention it, I don't think I did. But still, that doesn't explain why the bits were so hard to get loaded. Anyhow, I'm going to ask Carvewright if they'll replace the QC.

[Jeff_Birt]

SAA3840Quote:
Originally Posted by Amonaug http://forum.carvewright.com/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?p=69177#post69177)
I have to ask, did you lube the new QC before using it?

Now that you mention it, I don't think I did. But still, that doesn't explain why the bits were so hard to get loaded. Anyhow, I'm going to ask Carvewright if they'll replace the QC.


Yeah, it kinda does...the chuck has to have lubrication to allow the detent balls to move properly in and out of place. Check the downloads section of the CW website for a great guide to chuck care: http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/Care_and_maintenance_of_the_QC.pdf

I've found that it is very important to get lubrication between the inner and out sections of the chuck. A few drops of 3-in-1 oil in there will make all the difference in the world.

[Amonaug]

Now that you mention it, I don't think I did. But still, that doesn't explain why the bits were so hard to get loaded. Anyhow, I'm going to ask Carvewright if they'll replace the QC.

When you get a new QC before you put it in the CW try to move the collar up and down. You will find it's very hard to move and the bearings inside don't move all that well thus the bit will be hard to get in and out. Now put a drop of 3 in 1 oil in each of the notches that hold the set screws, it moves MUCH easier and smoothly.

[liquidguitars]

I have tryed a few tools to remove the QC all have snaped off in time of need.

Now I use a simple die wrench with a steel rod " sold at Ace hadware" I just taper the end on a bench grinder. If the rod twists or snaps i just grind off more. :) also a temp gage is very inportaint to see how hot the QC is. When removing I ramp
to 200 deg with a heat gun the needed temp for blue I think.

LG