Chucks Not Holding Up!!!!!!

[Michigander]

This is my 3rd one in about 3 months

[hotpop]

Michigander,

Been there! I'm on chuck number three myself. Latest has about 60 hrs. on it and feels like it should, lifts all the way up and snaps all the way down. Although many disagree with me I do lubricate it a little at every 3 or 4 tool changes.

Ron Justice is testing a new chuck design which I think he will be offering for sale pretty soon. So keep a eye out on the forum for some kind of notice from Ron.

[Jeff_Birt]

Chucks Not Holding Up!!!!!!
This is my 3rd one in about 3 months


Is this just a complaint or are you soliciting help?

If you are looking for help, I would first ask how you are maintaining your check/bit adapters.

[Cmdr.Rav]

Besides stocking our shelves with extra QC, we should all look into what may be causing this? I have had a QC become loose and don't recall what I did. I had to send it in for repair.

But these days buying parts and sending in the machine for repair is not a free exchange. Is it the bits becoming loose? Is it the adapters? I wonder if you could replace the chuck with a hand tighten chuck with wrenches like a router? I know Sears sells a QC and use the same adapter as the CC for their routers, but I am not sure the threaded post is the same size?

To me maybe a hand tighten chuck would result in a chuck operating correctly. I know it so much easier to pop out the adapter, that is if the QC isn't stuck! But the time to change a bit is better then needing to replace the QC several times. My other CNC the motor is a router and I need to change bits using a hand tighten ( with 2 wrenches) collet. This would work for using 1/4 and 1/2 bits just like a router. I am going to look into it and see if it can be done!

Rav

[RanUtah]

Looks like someone put a pipe wrench or channels locks on that one.

[Michigander]

I think that the reason for bad QC is the springs are failing inside the chuck. When the Z truck is moving up and down this allows the adaptor and bit to unlock from QC. It all starts with the area where the setscrews go and lock in are getting washed out on the torque side. Then it fails to hold anything.

[hotpop]

Michigander,

Look closely at your picture and notice the crack between the notches. This is caused by metal fatigue. This is the same problem I had with my first couple of chucks.

I hope LHR has made some changes on their replacement chucks and latest machines. I keep my fingers crossed.

[Jeff_Birt]

Both Questions Jeff , Answers are yes!

Yes? How are you cleaning and maintaining your chuck?? The photo looks like you beat that one off with a sledge hammer. I can't help but suspect that your not cleaning/lubricating it or the adapters properly, properly causing yourself problems.

I replaced my first chuck after 100+ hours of use. And it seems that most folks have similar or better performance. So, unless you are using your machine 150 hours a month, or you are the unluckiest person in the world and got three bad chucks in a row, you need to take a good look at how you are using the machine, or anythign else that might cause the chuck to fail. The point is not placing blame, but discovering the root cause of the problem.

Does the machine vibrate while cutting even with a new chuck? Are you trying to re-use old, dented adapters in your new chuck? Have you checked run out with a new chuck installed? Perhaps with your manhandling the old chucks (as evidenced in the photo) the spindle shaft has been bent. Is your spindle getting hot with use? Does your flex-shaft whip a lot?

And most importantly, how are you maintaining your chuck?

[Michigander]

Is this just a complaint or are you soliciting help?

If you are looking for help, I would first ask how you are maintaining your check/bit adapters.

I keep everything as clean and lubed as possible. Check for loose set screws,
before each carve. one thing I did find is that the red marks on the QC don't allways line up like they should, this when changing from one bit to another during a project. I notice this before I make my bit change looking with a flashlight. So if you have any answers or suggestions PLEASE let me know,,,Thanks Jim

[Michigander]

All new QC , adaptors, and bits I have to take the Qc out somtimes to release the adaptor because they are all washed out also I have 168Hrs run time

[Jeff_Birt]

I keep everything as clean and lubed as possible.

That does not answer the question my friend. The chuck needs to be cleaned and lubricated after every carving session. CW recommends putting some 3-in-1 oil on a rag and wiping the inside of the chuck. The adapters should also be wiped with a light coat of oil before and after each carving session. The oils serves to prevent oxidation and helps transfer heat from the bit/adapter through the chuck.

You also need to inspect the chuck on a regular basis for sawdust impaction. A good blast of air will usually clean the chuck out good.

It sounds like a lot of work, but I have found a good cleanup at the end of a carving session will usually take about 15-20 minutes.

[mtylerfl]

That does not answer the question my friend. The chuck needs to be cleaned and lubricated after every carving session. CW recommends putting some 3-in-1 oil on a rag and wiping the inside of the chuck. The adapters should also be wiped with a light coat of oil before and after each carving session. The oils serves to prevent oxidation and helps transfer heat from the bit/adapter through the chuck.

You also need to inspect the chuck on a regular basis for sawdust impaction. A good blast of air will usually clean the chuck out good.

It sounds like a lot of work, but I have found a good cleanup at the end of a carving session will usually take about 15-20 minutes.

I think Jeff is right on. What he described is exactly what I do, and have never had any issues/problems with the QC on either of my two machines.

I use a "giant dental-type" mirror (bought from Home Depot) to peek under the inside of the chuck after each session - I will almost always see fine sawdust in the crevices of the inside of the chuck. Clean all that out (compressed air, toothpick, toothbrush, small wirebrush, whatever it takes), light coat of 3-in-1 oil and you'll have a troublefree chuck, most likely.

[ChrisAlb]

WOW! Still on my origial chuck after 200+. No problems. Can't help but wonder why????

Is it possible they are made by several different manufactures or something?? I wouldn't think so but....????

[Digitalwoodshop]

Chris,

A Clean machine is a HAPPY Machine..... Your machine is a happy machine.

I know that sawdust buildup in the U shape area that the set screws sit against were the cause of some of my chuck problems. The sawdust prevented the ball bearings from seating properly and when carving the wiggle of the bit holder wore the chuck. I seriously believe I caused some of the Chuck wear.... Now I blow air in the chuck often.

Just finished 2 carves in wood without changing the bit or tightening the X belt and no slipping of the X like I had the other day in oak.

AL

[ChrisAlb]

Yea buddy, that's what I keep saying. I've never had the BB's you've shown and to this day, when I lift the collar, my bits "FALL" out.

[Kenm810]

I really have to agree about a clean machine and clean chuck, I had problems with dust and oil packing up inside my machines QC Chuck until I started using 10" x 12" plexy mirror to really see what I was doing, I have an air gun with a 1/8" x 6" "J" shaped brass tube on the end, that I use to blast the dust and oil out after each carving project, Plus I put a couple of drops of T-9 on the top of the Bit Adapter each time I load a Bit.(for me it seems to collect a little less dust then 3in1 oil) All in all 200 plus hours on the QC Chuck and it's working better now than it did for the first 12 months I used it.

Ps. Way a 10"x 12" mirror -- it catches anything Old butter fingers might drop between the Traction Belts

Also because I couldn't fit my 16" x20" one in the Machine http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

[mtylerfl]

Ken,

I love your idea regarding the brass "J" tubing on the end - I'm going to make one of those myself!

[jackssib1]

live and learn..learning is great.:D
Jack

[fwharris]

Ken,
I use an inflation needle, the kind for filling basket ball, football, soccer balls etc. I find that the small opening on the needle works great for directing the air in tight places..

Also like your mirror idea. With one that big you can see the full inside of the machine not just a small area like a small inspection mirror. Plus the advantage of catching any small parts..

[Kenm810]

Good idea, anything that can direct the air to where it's needed.

By using a larger mirror I was able to find more of the dust that was hiding in all it's little hidy holes.
I even seen some machine parts I didn't know were there. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif