Day 2 FNG issue - Cannot measure length.

[Kwolz]

Hi folks - got my machine yesterday and whipped out a couple of small projects without any trouble. Went to it today and vacuumed all the dust out and gave it a try again - HOWEVER - I cannot get it to measure the length of my board. It will measure the width perfectly. I followed the manual and tested the sensor - I get 155 or better with any board in there and when I quickly remove the board the number drops to 0 every time.

I have tried multiple boards of varying thickness with the same results. When it measures the length - it just sends the board to the right (front) and right out of the machine - but the width measurement is dead on.

Any help is appriciated. A $2k paper weight is not what I asked for for summer.

TIA.

Guy

[twinpeaksenterprises, LLC]

Maybe need a little more info... Like if its not measuring then what is it doing? As in what is the machine actions when it is not measuring or is trying to measure. You could check your roller to make sure their not sticking. You can check them from the control panel on the machine to see if their compressed or released when their supposed to. Also try putting a strip of masking tape on the end of the board in case the sensor can't read the wood, which it sometimes does on light or different colored woods. Thats just a couple quick checks that i have resolved with mine.

[Jeff_Birt]

This is a situation where making use of the search feature of the forum would really help out. I did a quick search for 'measure board problem' and came up with several hits, among them:

http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5898&highlight=measure+board+problem

The first thing I would check are the pressure roller switches, turn on machine, press '0', '7' and then scroll to correct screen.

[Kwolz]

Actually - the search feature is the first thing l looked at, but thanks all the same.

I went out and tried all the items I found. 2 things to note now - the front roller reads compressed even though its not and the back operates fine with me being able to togle it by hand.

Also - I read that I should be able to push the sensor roller and get a click - I do not. It gives a little, but does not act like it is a switch.

Just relaying this as I go in case somethig triggers a thought elsewhere.

Guy

[Kwolz]

OK - I read through the link you posted. Good info, but if the O-ring is bad already then I seriously need to rethink my investment... I plan on checking it just the same.

I had the same thought about the board size - so I did try a larger board with the same results.

Maybe I'll try more tomorrow when my bllod isn't boiling...

Thanks,
Guy

[Kwolz]

OK - I followed all the advice I could find in the forums. Nothing worked. However, I did see that 1/2 in waqs the minimum thickness - even though one of the pieces I was failing with was 3/4 inch. I figured all things being equal - I through in the piece that worked for me yesterday. The carving worked great (right up until the last couple of passed where it seemed to double the depth and gouge out the row) - but the manual measure still didn't work perfect. It measured the length all the way to the right - then essentially ejected it through the back.

Whilke dealing with this and all the tests I tried - I did find that the front roller stays at compressed which I am guessing IS an issue that I need to call CW on - and when I lowere the upper assembly - I max out at just less than 70 lbs.

So - I am not dead, just need to read more and go figure out what wood works best.

THanks for the help.

[bjbethke]

Kwalz, you stated your front roller stays compressed – That is your problem.

Most likely cause is saw dust build up on your roller bushings.

The rollers need to compress when a board is under the rollers and uncompress when the board runs out from under the rollers (when it runs to the end of the board when measure the length of the board.)

With out a board in the machine move the rollers up and down with your hand to see if they compress and uncompress.

Do you have a Down Draft system to remove the saw dust from under the machine? With out one you can have saw dust problems quickly.

Do not use oil type lubes. - Use dry film type – Oil type lubes cause saw dust build up in the rollers.

[Digitalwoodshop]

You hit the cause right on the head.... When measuring the board for length it uses the compressed roller when it uncompresses to tell the computer when to start looking for the edge of the board with the board detector. With your roller NEVER UN Compressing the roller the computer will NEVER look with it's Board Detector.

To have that much dust build up in the roller switch must = a whole lot of dust build up in the machine. To keep your paper weight working you need to get an even bigger paper weight of a dust collector to control the amount of dust in your machine.

Relying just on a hand vacuum is just asking for trouble. Many do use only a hand vacuum with success but many have also killed the electronics with a vacuum hose when static electricity in the thousands of volts fried the computer and sensors.

The static is made with the wood chips moving thought the hose. Some hoses are better than others. The cheaper the quality of the hose the more static build up. Some hoses have carbon in them to bleed off the static.

Good luck,

Al

[Jeff_Birt]

OK - I read through the link you posted. Good info, but if the O-ring is bad already then I seriously need to rethink my investment... I plan on checking it just the same.

I had the same thought about the board size - so I did try a larger board with the same results.

Maybe I'll try more tomorrow when my bllod isn't boiling...


The post I found may not have contained your answer but by using the 'Search' tool you likely could have found your answer pretty quickly. 'Search' is your best friend. Taking a few minutes to try a few searches and find your answer is a lot more productive than getting ticked off at the machine.




Whilke dealing with this and all the tests I tried - I did find that the front roller stays at compressed which I am guessing IS an issue that I need to call CW on - and when I lowere the upper assembly - I max out at just less than 70 lbs.

So - I am not dead, just need to read more and go figure out what wood works best.


You got it! Like others have said, most likely there is a bit of saw dust binding up the roller and/or switch. You may be able to prevent this in the future with a bit of precise cleaning after each carving session. See:

http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/tips/CarveWright_Tips_and_Tricks_Jan08.pdf

for more tips on cleaning...

[Digitalwoodshop]

OK - I followed all the advice I could find in the forums. Nothing worked. However, I did see that 1/2 in waqs the minimum thickness - even though one of the pieces I was failing with was 3/4 inch. I figured all things being equal - I through in the piece that worked for me yesterday. The carving worked great (right up until the last couple of passed where it seemed to double the depth and gouge out the row) - but the manual measure still didn't work perfect. It measured the length all the way to the right - then essentially ejected it through the back.

Whilke dealing with this and all the tests I tried - I did find that the front roller stays at compressed which I am guessing IS an issue that I need to call CW on - and when I lowere the upper assembly - I max out at just less than 70 lbs.

So - I am not dead, just need to read more and go figure out what wood works best.

THanks for the help.


To continue..... This caught my eye too.... Since you have only posted about 4 posts I am guessing that you have not spent too much time reading the manual or the forum.

This statement is the give away....

"The carving worked great (right up until the last couple of passed where it seemed to double the depth and gouge out the row) - but the manual measure still didn't work perfect. "

I am betting you are using a short board and not understanding or following the 7 inch rule. The 2 rollers hold the board flat to the sand paper belt and the head cuts based on the top of the board. If you don't have an extra 3.5 inches on BOTH ends of the board meaning a 10 inch board in designer and a 17 inch board in real life.... Then the 10 inch board in designer and in real life does not have the benefit of both rollers holding the board flat. With only one roller holding the board and possibly the out feed tables not properly adjusted CAN CAUSE ONE END OF THE BOARD TO POP UP CAUSING A "GOUGE OUT OF A ROW".... Sound familiar? The 7 inch rule has been posted a thousand times mostly in reply to gouged boards. Plus it is in the MANUAL.....

Things to read up on and know before it sets off your blood pressure.

Head cranked up and won't crank down, just clicks.... (Manual and Forum)
Static Electricity and killing your machine.
Board alignment with the brass roller, step cutting.
Dark boards using masking tape.

Every problem you will EVER have with the machine has already been posted here on the forum. It's just a matter of taking the time to read about them so you will be prepared for your next problem. 80% of machine problems are caused by the user not following the proven methods written about many times before.

It's just comes down to making a decision to post a complaint about the machine or take the time to search for the answer. Knowing when to ask for help is the key. It is easier to lash out because your intrinsic knowledge tells you this is the way it "should" work as opposed to how it really works according to the operation manual.

Good Luck,

AL

[liquidguitars]

essentially ejected it through the back

Thats the rollers mini sensors.

to clean I remove the side panal on the key pad side to get to them quickly.

As a side point, I just replaced the 2 sensors with new ones last week as the wires were shot so dirt was not the major prob.

LG