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Oliver Lande
04-11-2008, 03:29 PM
Has anyone had this problem - my love / hate is really pushing my buttons.

I was making a cribbage board as a test. Nothing on the cribbage board was deep enough to raise any alarms with me - the carving went through without a hitch. Then I loaded the 60 degree bit for the text and lines, but the bit took a dive and broke the z truck casting right at the screw hole.

Here's the file in case anyone can detect a problem with it.

Jeff_Birt
04-11-2008, 03:35 PM
Last year, someone had a problem with a broken casting. I believe CW replaced it for them. Time to give CW a call...

ChrisAlb
04-11-2008, 03:39 PM
I see nothing in the file that should pose any problems. When the machine asked for the V60 bit at the start, did it actually touch the bit plate and surface of the wood OK?

fwharris
04-11-2008, 03:52 PM
I see nothing in the file that should pose any problems. When the machine asked for the V60 bit at the start, did it actually touch the bit plate and surface of the wood OK?

Chris,

That would be my guess also! Get you every time!

ChrisAlb
04-11-2008, 05:19 PM
Yea, as interesting as it is to watch this baby work, a lot of folks don't actually watch for or know the proper operation.

Digitalwoodshop
04-11-2008, 09:08 PM
I believe it is a casting problem with a weak area. I would love to buy that broken Z from you to play with pressing the bearings?

AL

Oliver Lande
04-11-2008, 10:11 PM
Since I've had bit plate problem and dive problems before, (bit plate needed lubrication, and the dive was a bad quick change combined with a deep pixel) I always watch for both the plate and the soft touch at bit change. In this case it did both correctly but dived a quarter of an inch into the wood after moving to its start location.

oldman
04-14-2008, 06:40 PM
After I replaced my broken power supply the machine didn't come on so I called CW and the tech told me I had to turn the contract knob for the LCD and when I did the machine was actually on. Good to know tip. My next task was to check for caliberation of the machine this is when I heard a sound and saw the bit come out of the QC, so I stopped the machine ( it had compled three passes on the first cut), when trying to remove the top of bit holder as it was still in the QC I noticed the lower right wheel had come off because part of the truck assy had broken. I hope it will be replaced under warrenty because I only have 8 hours on the machine. My question is does anyone have a parts breakdown for the machine and or a procedure for replacing the Z truck???

Kenm810
04-14-2008, 06:50 PM
oldman,

Sorry to hear of your problem, call LHR and speak to one of the techs, they will explain what to do.
And it should be taken care of under warranty,
the same thing has happened before so don't feel alone.

oldman
04-14-2008, 07:55 PM
Thank you Kenm810 for your replay and your picture looks exactly like mine. I am assuming that CW and LHR are one in the same? If not do you have the phone # for LHR? So far it has been a good machine with a little problems and I must say the this fourm has answered a lot of questions and has a lot of insight.

Kenm810
04-14-2008, 08:10 PM
They are the same company,
Here ya go. Explain to the tech what happened and they'll that care of your needs.
LHR Technologies, Inc.
4930 Allen Genoa Road
Pasadena, TX. 77504

CarveWright Service Phone Numbers
For CarveWright and CompuCarve Machines
You can contact CarveWright by phone at
1-713-473-6572 1-713 473-6545 or 1-800-573-1226
email at support@carvewright.com.
New hours are Monday through Saturday 9:00 am To 6:00 pm Central Time.

oldman
04-14-2008, 10:28 PM
Thank you for the phone #'s, I didn't know they had a 800#. I sent them an email at 3:30 my time so will call tomorrow to see what there solution is. Another question do you know of anyone who has a CW machine in the Port Orchard, Wa area????

oldman
04-15-2008, 12:21 PM
I thought that I read somewhare that the bit have locktight on them. Yesterday when the Z truck broke the Joining bit came out of its holding fixture and needs to be reassy, I tried to lossen the set screw but there was some resistance so I stopped. Is there a guide line for how far the bit needs to be in its holding assy?? O buy the way CW stated that I have to send my machine back for the broken Z truck so I will be down for awile, the projects just keep piling up.

Kenm810
04-15-2008, 12:51 PM
Here ya go,

Photo of 1/2" Bit Installation,
also you may need a hot air gun to melt the blue loc-Tite to release the set screws http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif


Ps. CW also sells a Bit Tool for setting the Bit length if you really need one

Dan-Woodman
04-15-2008, 06:35 PM
This bit tool holds the 1/2" adapters while you tighten the one nut that sqeezes the 1/2" bit in the adapter with the wrench that stores in the handle.
This is almost a must have tool if your going to use 1/2" bits. The little "ears" on the adapter are not removed to replace the bit. The bit tool has a special place where the adapter fits into and is help in place with spring preasure, then using the wrench , tighten the nut while holding the bit tool with the other.
Theres really not a good way to hold the adapter without this tool without holding it in a vise which would damage it.
Theres also a hieght gaugebuilt in for setting the length of bit in the adapter.
I much prefer this methed of holding the bit , as opposed to the little ears that turns a screw against the shaft of the bit.

They should make 1/4" adapters like this. It's just like tightening your bit in your hand held router with the wrench.

later Daniel

oldman
04-15-2008, 09:39 PM
Thank you Dan-Woodman for the info. I am glad that I stopped and asked the question.

tstryk
09-02-2008, 05:43 AM
I just had this happen, too - calling today to seek resolution. It doesn't look too hard to replace, but the screw are TIGHT!

bjbethke
09-03-2008, 07:29 AM
“They should make 1/4" adapters like this. It's just like tightening your bit in your hand held router with the wrench.”

later Daniel


http://www.librawood.com/steelroutercolletsreducerbushings.aspx

I found these collet reducers work great. They are 1.25 inches long; I set them flush with the adapter nut. The extra ¼ inch is no problem. I like the ½ inch adapters. I purchased 10 ea. at,

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=748

Carvewright 1/2" Quick Change Bit Adapter Price $7.99
Carvewright Bit Adjustment Tool Price $14.99

I paid $5.95 ea for them. The price went up on them. I would also by the wrench. You need to get the bit tight when you install them. I haven’t had one come loose yet. I use my ½ inch bits for my Legacy Ornamental Mill, they are plunge bits and they work great with the CW machine.

Jeff_Birt
09-03-2008, 09:13 AM
I noticed that the dealers web-page does not list the run-out of the bushing. I found the mfgs website: http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs, and even downloaded their catalog but found no mention or spec for run-out. Handheld routers typically do not hold a tight tolerance anyhow so adding a bit more wobble with a bushing is not a big deal. With CNC machines however, the story is different. They may be perfectly fine but with no spec who knows?

jerrbitt
09-03-2008, 11:54 AM
After I replaced my broken power supply the machine didn't come on so I called CW and the tech told me I had to turn the contract knob for the LCD and when I did the machine was actually on. Good to know tip. My next task was to check for caliberation of the machine this is when I heard a sound and saw the bit come out of the QC, so I stopped the machine ( it had compled three passes on the first cut), when trying to remove the top of bit holder as it was still in the QC I noticed the lower right wheel had come off because part of the truck assy had broken. I hope it will be replaced under warrenty because I only have 8 hours on the machine. My question is does anyone have a parts breakdown for the machine and or a procedure for replacing the Z truck???

On the Carvewright home page under support, then under downloads, you can dowload a copy of the parts manual.

Call LHR and ask them to send you the PDF file on replacing the Z truck. It is titled replacing the Y truck but has both procedures. It is REVision 1.1 Date 02/29/08. If they won't send it, let me know and I'll send it to you. They have as of late frowned on owners trying this repair themselves.

tstryk
09-03-2008, 01:30 PM
My z-truck broke Sunday at probably the same place - and someone else had posted a picture of theirs....broken in exactly the same place. The split was in the lower right corner through the screw hole, right? Anyhow - they are paying all shipping expenses and fixing it free....just gonna have withdrawls for a few weeks!

liquidguitars
09-03-2008, 02:45 PM
found these collet reducers work great. They are 1.25 inches long; I set them flush with the adapter nut. The extra ¼ inch is no problem. I like the ½ inch adapters. I purchased 10 ea. at,

that's a good idea if the bit holds in the collet, I just ran out of 1/4" adapters today, thanks for the tip.

LG