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geddins
03-08-2008, 02:39 PM
Ok....so I had a head pressure/board sensor issue, and the guys at LHR suggested I get some white lithium grease and treat the side posts and the "allthread" that the head goes up and down on.

I go get the grease, crank the head all the way up, apply grease, and get ready to crank it back down and ....."click, click, click".....it won't budge. It's stuck at the top.....anyone have any ideas?

Any help appreciated.

Greg

Wid T
03-08-2008, 02:49 PM
Vertical Lockup: Cranking the head beyond its highest useable
height can result in it locking in a position where the head crank cannot
lower it. Releasing from this locked position it is very easy. The
threaded head screw needs to be manually turned and can be
accessed from the inside of the machine. On this head screw, just
above the traction belts, is a hole into which an Allen wrench or similar
tool can be inserted. Using the Allen wrench as leverage, turn the
head screw a clockwise direction to unlock it.

Hope this helps
Wid T

geddins
03-08-2008, 03:22 PM
Thanks Wid T....your advice was spot on! I was able to get it out of it's frozen state, but will be calling LHR on Monday....it appears something is stripped....it'll now crank down a turn or two, then starts just spinning...like it's getting disengaged or something.....

Thanks again!
G

Amonaug
03-08-2008, 03:26 PM
I have the same problem, applying down pressure with my hand/arm on the head while cranking down works.

Also cold seems to make it stick so make sure the machine is warm (it's said about 60+ degrees). Using the grease made it easier but it still gets sticky from time to time.

geddins
03-08-2008, 03:35 PM
yeah, I've been using my hand for the past month or so....but now it's not even "clicking" when going down...just spinning....




I have the same problem, applying down pressure with my hand/arm on the head while cranking down works.

Also cold seems to make it stick so make sure the machine is warm (it's said about 60+ degrees). Using the grease made it easier but it still gets sticky from time to time.

AskBud
03-08-2008, 03:55 PM
Also check the screw that attachés the handle to the machine. Mine has worked loose, twice, in the first week of use.
AskBud

twinpeaksenterprises, LLC
03-09-2008, 11:42 AM
I had the same problem before. Check the plastic boot that connects the handle i had a hairline crack in mine straight out the box which caused it to spin. Put a new handle on and it worked fine. Also check the gears to make sure their moving smoothly with no excess sawdust buildup. Another member just posted a great post. Called "maintenance" under this same Post. He made a good point of the sawdust buildup in the gears when you remove the bottom cover. Also you may need to apply some grease. I believe "white lithium grease" is whats called for if im not mistaken.

peter_l
03-10-2008, 04:55 PM
I just returned and ordered a new machine from Sears for this very issue. I raised the cutting head to the top to clean the machine and it would not go back down.

Used the access hole to manually lower it, but then the crank would only lower it if I applied quite a bit of pressure.

For the money of the machine, and it only being a week old, I said nope, returned it and ordered a new one.

It will be here on Friday.

Is there an issue with general crank mechanism?

Pete

Jeff_Birt
03-10-2008, 05:23 PM
Pete, I just replied to your other thread about this. It would be in your best interest to read the users manual about locking the head up...its totally user error sorry to say. A bit of reading would have save you a lot of trouble.

jwhllh55
03-12-2008, 02:25 AM
I had the same problem, and I checked the highth from front to back and I eas over 1/4" off. After taking the conecting rod free and cranking the head to get the difference to 1/16", the head now has the right pressure and cranks a lot easier. As a matter of fact some of the errors I was getting stopped totally.
Jeff is right, read and hed the instructions. Good advice..
John Hammett
Baker City, OR

LittleRedWoodshop
03-12-2008, 01:11 PM
Am I the only one that wonders if some of this is done in shipping, just thinking outloud. I highly doubt if they are shipping machines that have problems, I know they test them before they leave there (Texas). And, yes, alot of it is due to alignment issues. So glad I don't work for Sears anymore. The Sears machines ave been sitting in a warehouse (for awhile) and need to be checked for alignment.

SandBuoy
03-12-2008, 01:44 PM
Jason you might have a point if the boxes were shipped with multiple units stacked on top. The bottom ones could have had alot of pressure on them. But them again I can't see them jumping a thread or even enough threads to make up a 1/8-1/2" difference. The gears slipping is one thing, but jumping threads would almost have to be caused by them tearing out.

I see no evidence of any torn threads in either the shaft or nut. I think in my case, it is the shaft coming down from the handle being to short (out of adjustment) to make a positive connection with the bevel gears. I am going to look into it further before starting the machine again and see if that shaft in help in place with an adjusting screw that will lower the bevel gear tighter against other one.

I would also like to ask if anyone knows how the racheting devise works. My doesn't seem to break away when I am lowering the roller into place. I don't get that clicking from mine. I do know that I was lowering the rollers to tight onto the work peice. After lining up the sides I lowered down the rollers on the work peice.

I started with very little pressure, hit the botton, got a install work peice message, tightened a little more and the machine kicked into action. So it take alot less pressure then I thought it did.

BTW, looks like just one side of each roller has the micro switches on it. I thought both sides of each roller had a micro switch. I did the compression check and found that only one side would click, but the machine ran flawlessly. So I think only one side has it.

SandBuoy
03-12-2008, 01:47 PM
John, do you have the racheting cound on your machine. I don't but the crank still works and it take every little crank down pressure for me to get the machine to run. Just wondered if your is working right after you leveling the head. BTW, nice to see a fellow Oregonian posting on here.

Jeff_Birt
03-12-2008, 05:07 PM
I think shipping is a big issue. It's kind of pot luck if the guy who handles your box is being careful or dropping it on teh floor. I have also heard that there is a similar issue with planers.

I bought a new circular saw for work a few weeks ago. The cardboard box looked fine. When I opened it the plastic case was crushed and it made me doubt the condition of the saw. We took it back and found the only other saw on teh floor of the same model had also been crushed (but the box looked fine.) Luckily they had a few others on the top shelf that were OK.