Still have lines in all of my carvings!

[amanda0101]

I checked the rollers, cleaned under the belts, made sure my boards were not warped, and I gave myself a good 10 inches so that I was sure to stay under the rollers. I am not sure if it's the bits or what but I can't carve anything without lines running through it. Any ideas?

[ChrisAlb]

Amanda, could you post your latest attempt? I would just be guessing most likely but maybe seeing it would help to shed some light? There has to be an answer and I'm sure someone in here could pick up on it.

Besides that, I just love seeing your work!

[amanda0101]

Amanda, could you post your latest attempt? I would just be guessing most likely but maybe seeing it would help to shed some light? There has to be an answer and I'm sure someone in here could pick up on it.

Besides that, I just love seeing your work!

Here are a couple for you. One thing I haven't done is removed the rollers so I might try that as well before I call LHR. The piece in wood has been sanded a bit but the lines were much more prevelant before, the other piece isn't even usable. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[amanda0101]

It didn't save the attachments for some reason, here they are.

[ChrisAlb]

The lines in the wood almost seem to be grain. The other seems to have an evenly spaced set of lines. Let me ask, are these put in the machine by themselves or on a sled?

[Ken Massingale]

The lines in the wood almost seem to be grain. The other seems to have an evenly spaced set of lines. Let me ask, are these put in the machine by themselves or on a sled?
Definitely looks like wood grain to me, too Chris.

[ChrisAlb]

Good Morning Ken,

That's what I thought. But Amanda is pretty darn savvy and I would think she's knows grain so I'm not so sure. As I've never done a lithopane and know nothing about them, I'm "guessing" maybe the other one was somehow lifting up or not flat (maybe some waves in the material???) that caused those pretty evenly spaced and wider lines?? I know it wouldn't have to much of a "wave" to do that.

I really asked her to post the results because I know that in here somewhere are folks who could probably answer the question for her.

[liquidguitars]

check your bits in the adapters, if loose use Locktight.

LG

[amanda0101]

The lines were really uneven, different depths and heights. I could see how it could look like that though considering I sanded most of it off. I should have taken a picture before. The wood may have been warped, I didn't check but the corian is flat as a pancake. I will check my adapters and I still have to clean inside my rollers. I found a couple posts with the same problem, for one it was there was sawdust compacted in the rollers the other was a z-motor problem. I am hoping it's just sawdust or corian in the rollers. Corian is so much harder to clean out so even though I vacuum constantly, it is a lot harder to get up. Maybe I just couldn't get to it all and it built up in one spot, maybe that's just wishful thinking. I will let you know when I take it apart.

[Eagle Hollow]

Amanda,

I agree with Liquidguitars. Your results look similar to some I've gottten with a loose carving bit. Make sure to check them each time you use them!! I use blue locktite also.

Jerry

[benluz]

Yep, same here.When my bit became loose gave me a similar problem.If not the bit or chuck, then possibly the z-encoder is loosing track of the position of the bit.

Ben

[Rickrljones]

Hello Amanda,

I received the same scenario when I did my last carving on corian. Mine were not as protrusive as yours, but having the same problem. Made sure the material was not cupped and carved it on a sled. I believe it has to be clitch in the software programing. Might want to address this problem to LHR, and see if they are aware of this issue. By the way, I'm very impressed with your results on the carvings you posted. Let me know if you are able to correct this issue, and post your findings on the forum.

[amanda0101]

Alright, cleaned out the rollers and used some locktite on the adapter. It was a tiny bit loose but I imagine when it has to be precise even the slightest movement can create problems. I have corian in now and I will post when it's finished.

[mtylerfl]

I checked the rollers, cleaned under the belts, made sure my boards were not warped, and I gave myself a good 10 inches so that I was sure to stay under the rollers. I am not sure if it's the bits or what but I can't carve anything without lines running through it. Any ideas?

Hello Amanda,

That problem can also be caused by using stock that is too thin (less than 1/2" can cause carve depth issues) and/or stock that is not long enough to keep it under BOTH rollers at all times during the entire carve process.

You've probably read many, many posts on the length issue. But, to re-cap, you must make your "real" stock at least 7" longer than the stock layout in Designer (i.e., if your "fake" layout board in Designer is 10" long, then your REAL board must be 17" long). Otherwise the piece will periodically slip out from under one of the rollers during the carve and cause the stock to lift slightly, therefore, creating lines (and regions) of different depths on your carving.

If you are attempting to carve on stock that is too short to stay captive under BOTH rollers at ALL times, that is certainly one reason for the lines of varying depths across your projects. So I'm not saying this is the cause of your problem, but it is certainly the number one cause for most people with the "line" problem.

You can attach your mpc file so we can take a look at it and give you the necessary info as far as proper board length and setup procedure to make sure it's not a pilot error issue. Just make sure any patterns in the mpc do not have a copyright.

[Ken Massingale]

Hello Amanda,

That problem can also be caused by using stock that is too thin (less than 1/2" can cause carve depth issues) and/or stock that is not long enough to keep it under BOTH rollers at all times during the entire carve process.

You've probably read many, many posts on the length issue. But, to re-cap, you must make your "real" stock at least 7" longer than the stock layout in Designer (i.e., if your "fake" layout board in Designer is 10" long, then your REAL board must be 17" long). Otherwise the piece will periodically slip out from under one of the rollers during the carve and cause the stock to lift slightly, therefore, creating lines (and regions) of different depths on your carving.

If you are attempting to carve on stock that is too short to stay captive under BOTH rollers at ALL times, that is certainly one reason for the lines of varying depths across your projects. So I'm not saying this is the cause of your problem, but it is certainly the number one cause for most people with the "line" problem.

You can attach your mpc file so we can take a look at it and give you the necessary info as far as proper board length and setup procedure to make sure it's not a pilot error issue. Just make sure any patterns in the mpc do not have a copyright.
Michael,
For me, I understand the additional length, now at the keypad when starting a project and the machine ask 'Stay under rollers', Yes or No?

[mtylerfl]

Michael,
For me, I understand the additional length, now at the keypad when starting a project and the machine ask 'Stay under rollers', Yes or No?


• Stay Under Rollers - press 1) YES



• How to place on Length - press 1) Center On Length



• Cut Board to Size? - press 2) NO

[liquidguitars]

If you add the 8" in your project try,

•Stay Under Rollers - press 2 NO

• How to place on Length Press 3) "place on end"

• Cut Board to Size? - press 2) NO


I imagine when it has to be precise even the slightest movement can create problems.

Yes big time probs...


1.126

LG

[kobeez]

Just to add something else to store in the back of your minds. I recently purchased third party Kyocera carving bits. These are 1/16" carbide round tip. I have not been carving anything incredibly detailed, but on flat portions of a carve I do get small lines that you can be attributed to a flat vs round difference. My hope was that these different bits with 4 flutes instead of LHR's three flute bits, and rounded tip, would carve cleaner. With limited testing, it seems that carves may be a bit cleaner, but the uniform lines do show up. They are small enough though, that sanding should take care of them.

Also, I had a loose bit that caused alot more lines of various depths, that a reapplication of lock tight solved. Finally, since someone else mentioned blue locktite, I have been using red. I hope there are no problems with that?