Everyones Machine Performance?

[twinpeaksenterprises, LLC]

IM seeing a whole lot of breakdowns and problems with the machine and new owners. Being a new owner myself and having a few problems im wondering how long exzactly before my machine "has the big one" and croaks. Can we get some performance ratings from some long time users? Such as how long they had their machines? And hours without problems? Whos got the most hours on their machine? Think it would be interesting to see an elder machine with like 1000 hours plus still alive and kicking.

[cajunpen]

I've had my machine for nearly 2 years and while I have had some minor problems (and they can be aggravating) I have never had a problem that wasn't solved. These machines have some minor problems - but the vast majority of the problems encountered are user errors or poor housekeeping techniques on the machine. Just run your machine and enjoy it - LHR is coming up with fixes everyday and you may never have a serious problem. Of course, I hope you realize that the the CarveWright was never intended for commercial use - it a hobbyist machine that works quite well, if properly maintained.

[bjwisdom]

I have about 70 hours on mine. Through that time I have had some minor problems. But, the machine is now back in Texas with major problems. I have maintained the machine as recommended and still encountered problems. You are basically getting what you pay for. I should not have expected a $1600 machine to perform on the same level as more expensive CNC machines. But, more testing on the part of LHR should have been done before releasing the machine publicly. If I had to do it again, I would have kept saving for a Shopbot. Just my opinion.

[twinpeaksenterprises, LLC]

Well i got about 40 hours on mine. But I can say right now that a down draft system (which i just built) is going to be the key to longevity. Wouldnt operate it without one after seeing the fragile switches, motor and electrical componets covered with fine dust. Overall i am pleased so far.

[ChrisAlb]

Perhaps it's just me but I can't complain one bit about my CW. I've had a few hiccups like everyone else but never a major problem. I've never sent it back as most of the very minor problems I've encountered where all easy fixes. I'm not advocating this machine is built for long hard use but for me, as with ALL my tools, I work it pretty hard. For the past few months this baby has been non stop carving and scanning no less than 8 hours a day with out a single incident except a torn belt which I believe I caused by not noticing a splintered bottom edge on my board.

When I first got this and had a few problems with only 8 hours on it I thought, oh man, what have I done, this thing is junk. But Thanks to Jeff Birt, Tim Cosby and too many other nice folks to mention pointing out MY self induced errors, which at first of course, I wouldn't believe...lol, I've come to realize they were ALL right. Since coming off my high horse, I've learned "how to treat" this machine properly. It still works very hard but now since I'M smarter about it, I've had no problems. As soon as I can, I plan to buy another one and then another one....etc. etc....

It's a GREAT tool in my book and needs the proper respect.

[yatrgatr]

With only 57 hours on the cut motor, it has lost it's RPM sensor and the bearing is bad, causing the flex shaft to vibrate and chatter. unfortunately it is over a year old and i have to pay $75.00 plus shipping for a new motor. in my opinion this machine has good possibilites but unfortunately it is built poorly for even a hobbiest. I have also kept my machine very clean and maintained, and have still had several problems. I should have bought a shop bot!

[Jeff_Birt]

With only 57 hours on the cut motor, it has lost it's RPM sensor and the bearing is bad,


Sounds like a case of over-lubing the flex shaft to me. I did something very similar myself, it pays to follow CW's advise on flex shaft lubrication....

[yatrgatr]

Sounds like a case of over-lubing the flex shaft to me. I did something very similar myself, it pays to follow CW's advise on flex shaft lubrication....

no dissrespect but, I can read, and follow instructions.


We have found that a penetrating lubricant containing solid molybdenum disulfide particles
(moly) yields superior results. You can think of the moly particles as millions of tiny ball
bearings. This lubricant is available at most Ace Hardware stores under the names of Liquid
Wrench Industrial Chain Lube (with moly) and Gunk Industrial Chain Lube With Moly.
We recommend that all machine owners purchase this lubricant and lubricate the flexshaft
according to the following procedure:
1) Remove the flexshaft from the machine making sure that you look to see if your shaft
has any brass spacers. These spacer will need to be orientated on the cutting head
side when you are ready to reassemble the flexshaft.
2) Use extreme caution when using this lubricant. It is an irritant and is toxic. Lay out a
plastic bag or sheet long enough to lay the flexshaft on. Using gloves and eye
protection spray down the entire length of the flexshaft. Rotate the flexshaft and spray
again. It is important that you let the oil penetrate the core.
3) Let the flexshaft dry for a few minutes and try to let excess oil run off
before placing it back into the sheath.
4) Push the core back into the sheath and make sure that it slips into, and engages, the
cutting motor. Turn the core with your fingers and feel for resistance of the motor. If
the shaft spins without resistance push the core in as you slowly rotate it. You should
feel it engage in the square slot in the motor. It should drop into the hole about 1/4".
5) Monitor the flexshaft while running your next project. Normally the entire length of the
flexshaft sheath will be the same temperature and slightly warm.
If the sheath is running hot to the touch or exhibits localized hot spots along the length please
contact us. Please contact us if you have any questions regarding the procedure.
Thank you again to all of our customers. We value your input and as many of you can see we
are using your comments and suggestions to continually improve our products.
Best Regards,
CarveWright Staff

[Bubbabear]

decided i dont need to stoop to the levels of some. Y



Craig

[yatrgatr]

Jeff Birt has been and is an invaluable help and giving of information, but, I know he has a sarcastic side and have seen it several times on this fourm. in the case of my cut motor, the shrink tube that held the RPM sensor magnet has melted and the magnet is floating around in the housing which has caused it to bind the motor, overheating the bearing and now it sounds like a bad pilot bearing on a clutch. I understand that LHR has upgraded the part and I am hopefull that a little sweet talk will produce one under a warranty, if not then i will have to buy one. sorry Jeff for the miss spelled name

[Jeff_Birt]

Originally Posted by Jeff_Birt http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?p=41983#post41983)
Sounds like a case of over-lubing the flex shaft to me. I did something very similar myself, it pays to follow CW's advise on flex shaft lubrication....
no dissrespect but, I can read, and follow instructions.

I can too and still screwed it up myself , so no sarcasm intended. I was just suggesting that perhaps there was a reason it failed (and perhaps a way to prevent it in the future). I suspect that excessive lubricant will degrade the heat shrink that holds the magnet in place leading to a situation such as yours. But, that may have not been the case.

[Old Salt]

I orderd my first carvewright in Jan 2006 just saw a proto type at one their first shows in KC. This is a real young machine many parts lots of sensors s/w motors gears all controled by new software.
Lets be resonable I don't think Henry"s first model T ran that well, but they got better with time but my ford still needs work now and then.
This is a total job for us all . If we all waited till ford got it all perfect it we would sill be walking. I'm now have 2 new machines and still do the wrong things know and then. Part of getting old (The Older I Get The Dumber I Get) ( When I was 25 I never was wrong , now I'm wrong almost every day)

[Digitalwoodshop]

IM seeing a whole lot of breakdowns and problems with the machine and new owners. Being a new owner myself and having a few problems im wondering how long exzactly before my machine "has the big one" and croaks. Can we get some performance ratings from some long time users? Such as how long they had their machines? And hours without problems? Whos got the most hours on their machine? Think it would be interesting to see an elder machine with like 1000 hours plus still alive and kicking.



We have tried many things and are still having problems carving quality text. We decided to do the sensor test. The z position when was fully vertical reads 0.000 we moved it to the bottom and back to top several times and we have had offset readings of 0.025 to 0.035 the LHR manual says it should return back to the same reading of 0.000, We have also noticed the similar deviation with the y position. Does anybody have a feel for the accuracy and if our readings are within tolerance.


We just had to swap our old machine for a new one and just got it in tonight, so we were unsure what we needed to do pertaining to keeping the software from the old machine or starting over and uninstalling the old and reinstalling the new, but we have centerline with the old software. So should i install the new software with the new machine? Will I be able to reinstall the centerline? Or can i or should i continue to use the same software that came with the previous machine..? Just kind of lost with all that but pondering it before i decide to tackle getting this new machine up and running.


Am interested in purchasing centerline software and bits. Is it worth the upgrade compared with the already installed font features? Which bit is the optimal purchase the 60 degree or the 90? New to the whole carvewright thing. Just fighting the battle.....


Anyone have any luck carving fonts? Not large but maybe 3/4 or smaller? No matter what configurations i come up with am unable to keep from chipping or completely routing out the letters....Any advice would be greatly appreciated....

"Custom Carvings
Recently we purchased a Computer Numerical Controlled (CNC) wood carver and plan to incorporate it in our maufacturing operation. We are currently testing and evaluating the machines capabilities. Stay tuned for more information."


"Following is a list of our metal working equipment; Lincloln stick welder, Lincoln wire feed welder, Oxy-Acetelyne torches, Dewalt abrasive cut off saw, metal band cut of saw, 40 ton hydraulic press with press brake, tube and metal bender, Bridgeport milling machine, 13 inch swing engine lathe, 8 inch swing engine lathe and drill press."

Impressive shop, you didn't list your woodworking equipment on your website but from the pictures the list would be impressive, top of the line.



"Hobby Machine"

After looking at your fantastic website with all the top of the line equipment in your large shop and seeing that you added a CNC machine to the shop, I will be looking forward to seeing how this Hobby Machine stacks up to the industrial equipment you own.

The Centerline Font Purchase will take care of the chip out problems of doing the Text is Raster Mode.

Your right that dust collection will go a long way to keep your machine running.

Remember that the Z and Y are Belt Driven and the X is a Friction Dependent on the sand paper belts. The Z encoder is attached to the rear of the Z motor and that motion test is transmitted through a rubber cog belt. Taking sawdust into account that might have gotten compressed in the cogs as you worked the Z up and down could account for the error. Then there is the gear box on the Z drive. In my Navy Analog Computer days they had "Lost Motion Take Up Springs" to pre load all the gear slop in one direction. This Hobby Gear Box does not have a Lost motion take up function.

I have 2 machines and over 1000 posts with a few problems along the way this Hobby Machine has served me well.

Good Luck with your second machine and Welcome to the forum.

AL

[Digitalwoodshop]

I found the pictures of the encoder I was looking for the other day. You can see the small copper pads that have a hole drilled through and the pin or wires are stuffed through and soldered. The weakest part of the solder pad is the transition from the circle to the thin copper trace. Pushing on the wire causes the copper circle that is glued to the circuit board to break free from the board and fracturing the connection to the trace. That is what was going wrong in the early Z Failures, with the Z Driving into the board..... The computer would tell the motor to go down and monitor the encoder for position feedback. When the copper wire breaks the computer keeps waiting for the feedback all the while pushing the bit deeper into the wood..... Sound familiar...?

The high vibration caused the failure to the delicate solder pads. Gluing the wires helps.

AL