Quick Change Assembly (Out of Service)

[bjbethke]

The machine has been working great up to now.
I guess I will be taking a break from making my shop cabinet doors. A chip of metal fell out of my Quick Change Assembly. (See photo) The chuck may have had a crack in it when I received my machine. (12/19/2007) I did not lose the bit, but it did start to vibrate. The carving is not very good I might try to carve it a little deeper when I get the new chuck in. Now I need to find out how to take this all apart, and put it all together when I get the new part in. The three doors carved OK before this one. I was using the carving bit for all these doors. There is a little damage on the bit collet. (See photo)

Enclosed are some photos of the projects I have been working on.

[hotpop]

I had a chuck that looked just like that. You are going to need a set of chuck removal tools. Contact Ron Justice on the forum.

Dimples on the adapters indicate to me that you had a hard time removing a bit at some point which probably cracked the chuck inner shell. Once it is cracked there's no telling when it might let go. The chuck has two positions for inserting adapters, 90 degrees apart. If the other position looks OK you can still keep carving. Just make sure not to insert the adapter into the undamaged position.

The dimple on the adapter will not have any bad effects. File and/or stone any bumps on the tapered surface.

If it's in your budget order yourself an extra chuck.

[Jeff_Birt]

Carvings on your downdraft table, I like it!

Do a search for a chuck replacement how to with pictures by DigitalWoodshop, I think i posted a link to it in another thread the other day too.

[bjbethke]

Thanks, Hotpop and Jeff
I never had my bits stick. The chuck is easy to lock and release, most of the time the bit falls free. I place a small pad under it. And use the pad to make the bit change. The chuck still locks and releases OK now. I use a dry film silicone lubricant on the machine. I used dry silicone on my Legacy Revo ornamental mill for a long time. The X, Y tracks would gum up with saw dust if I would use oil’s. I buy it by the case for about $3.00 plus shipping for a 12oz can. I don’t use the brand names; they cost about $9.00 a can. The Z movement on my Revo mill is the plunge router.

Jeff I think I understand how to fix this. I have a heat gun if the Locktite gives me problems.

Thanks.

[bjbethke]

My Quick Change Assembly is ordered today and should ship Monday.
The old assembly was easy to remove. It was very tight, hard to get it to release. I’m not sure why Blue Threadlocker needs to be used on that thread joint. While carving, the thread joint always has pressure to tighten the thread, when routing stops, the Z truck lifts up and the drive motor stops. Under normal operations the thread joint should never come loose. I think it gets very tight when you use ½ inch router bits. I can see Threadlocker used on the bit holders. The blue Threadlocker has 115 torque lbs breaking point. I purchased Permatex Med Strength Threadlocker Blue and Moly Roller Chain Lube from our local ACE Hardware store.

Any comments on my theory?