Resizing

[DavidC]

Hi - I am trying to make a harp. I get the sizes exactly correct in the software, and leave quite a bit of extra space on both ends of the board. After measuring the board, I am asked (forced) to accept rescaling. For example, a 36" board will be called 29.7" and then I am asked to rescale the project. I accept (there is no other choice) and my piece gets scaled down (quite a bit). Too much to use as a piece of a harp.
Any hints as to how to make the machine carve exactly to the design?

[Kenm810]

DavidC, first off may I say Welcome to the Forum

The actual project board must be a least 7" longer then your carved project and an inch wider.
A minimum of 3 1/2" at each your carving at end of the board,to stay under the pressure rollers.
This prevents the board from tipping up as it moves out from under the roller,
possibly breaking the carving bit or ruining your project.

[Old Salt]

Try cutting you board 7 " longer but when asked to stay under roller say no then tell it cut from center of board.
this is kind of fooling the softwear but you mesurements should be true and the board will still be under rollers.

[911guy]

Are you adding a routed edge to your project within the software? I get this when I do. I always route my edges after the main carving is done and it never forces me to resize.

In addition, I always run my boards through my joiner before carving. I think it helps with what Ken mentioned.


Hi - I am trying to make a harp. I get the sizes exactly correct in the software, and leave quite a bit of extra space on both ends of the board. After measuring the board, I am asked (forced) to accept rescaling. For example, a 36" board will be called 29.7" and then I am asked to rescale the project. I accept (there is no other choice) and my piece gets scaled down (quite a bit). Too much to use as a piece of a harp.
Any hints as to how to make the machine carve exactly to the design?

[DocWheeler]

From my understanding of the problem, OldSalt has the solution. If you tell the machine to keep it under the rollers, it will add 7+" to the project length EVEN IF THERE IS NO CARVING WITHIN 3.5" OF THE ENDS.
You just need to tell the machine NOT to keep it under the rollers if your project board in Designer has the needed length to REALLY keep it under the rollers.
The alternate solution, of course, is to have the board in Designer only as long as the carving and use a board that is 7+" too long and tell it to keep it under the rollers.

[911guy]

if your project board in Designer has the needed length to REALLY keep it under the rollers.
Yep, the majority of my projects are signs under 18 inches or so. Those never tip with mine.

[liquidguitars]

use a sled..

if your final soundboard is 24" long cut your sled to 32"
you now have the 8"extra you need.

Place your new sled in the Carvewrignt and hit 07 to measure, in designer make the board the same measurement
as the sled via the "07" keypad. note: do not use your tape measure. The project design will now be the same as the sled, eliminating all the guess work.

load the sled with the out feed rollers under the green zone or front 4"
load your program.

stay under rollers = no
hit 03 place on end = yes
cut to size = no

1 to 1 scaling with indexing and roller support.

LG

[Digitalwoodshop]

I know you guys are getting sick of the BEAR pictures but this could be the answer to Frugal use of GOOD WOOD.

The first picture is of a sled as it has sides and I tape rails in the middle. I have even cut one rail in the middle using blocking to hold it in place. It will also work for my 6 foot long Walking Sticks I will be doing soon.

The rest of the pictures are of a Carrier Board where I put a pre cut GOOD WOOD block in the middle and don't engrave the scrap wood. I use "place on end" to get it to the same position every time.

This only works if you don't have a cut path..... At least not one that checks the depth. A 14 inch carrier would let you enter the board thickness and I will be looking into making one.

On a smaller scale I am planning to make a hybrid sled Carrier board using a dado or biscuit slot in two runner sticks the same thickness as my stock. Then use a dado blade or my biscuit jointer to make places to use thinner stock than 1 inch and do cut path's.

I would use a waste piece, good wood, then waste piece, with the slotted sides and biscuits holding it all together. I will post pictures when I do this.

AL

[Bubbabear]

I know you guys are getting sick of the BEAR pictures but this could be the answer to Frugal use of GOOD WOOD.



Personally i never get tired of your bears. I have for my show and tell called them my slewfoot bears when showing them to friends after that old song