First carving

[rogone]

:confused: I am getting ready to do my first carving and I have a few questions that I could not find answers to in the manual or through searching the forum. The wood I have for the carving is a little bigger than the finished product but not long enough to stay under rollers while carving. From what I have read on the forum I can still do the carving using this board but I will need to use a sled for the carving. I have a sled I built for scanning so I would like to use that sled. First question: Do I assume correctly that to protect the bottom of the sled I should put a temporary covering (like a 1/4" piece of hard board) on the bottom of the sled to protect it from getting cut? I assume that fastening it down with double stick tape would work. Second question: When I fasten down the board with double stick tape do I need to make sure that the pieces that will be cut loose are fastened down with the doulbe stick tape? Third question: Is there anything special I need to do or be aware of in using a sled while cutting and carving the project? For instance, how will the machine know where to board is? Will it feel for it with the cutter before starting? I'm tired of being a CW virgin so any help with getting started would be apprectiated. Thanks in advance.

[Router-Jim]

Ah Roger, there's nothing quite like the first carve. ;)

I'll try to answer some of your questions.

You should not need to worry about protecting the bottom of your sled.

If your sled is 3/4" thick, then add 3/4" to your board thickness in designer.

You do not need to worry about which pieces of your project board are getting cut out as the machine will leave tiny tabs to hold the pieces in place. Just double stick you project board firmly to your sled. It doesn't take much tape.

You will need to add 3 1/2" of a material to the leading and trailing edge of the sled that is the same thickness as your project board. Your project board will sit between these and the machine will read via the board sensor. It should measure 7" longer than your project board this way.

The machine finds the surface by touching the cutting bit to the surface of your board.

Happy carving!


Jim

[rogone]

Thanks for the quick response Jim. So, if I understand you correctly, even though I am using a sled I still have to fake the machine into thinking the board is longer than what it is by adding the 3.5" board to each end of the project board (I presume I would just double stick tape these to the sled also). Does it matter where I place the project board on the sled or will be machine detect it location. Also, from what I have read I think the CW will ask if I want to stay under rollers before it starts. Should I answer yes? Thanks again for the help.

[Router-Jim]

Yes you should answer yes to stay under rollers.

After you have your board set up on your sled, press #1 ?(the key that says measure)and have the machine just measure your project. If everything agrees with what you have calculated out then start carving.

[rogone]

Thanks again Jim. What about the board location on the sled? Important or not? Also, you mentioned that the machine will measure the board and if everything agrees the CW will start carving. The project board I am using is somewhat bigger (length and width) than the finished project so I was expecting the CW to cut the board down to the correct size. Also, with an extra board on each end that is at least 3.5" long the machine will think I have a longer board than what I do. I need to make sure that the machine is cutting and carving the "real" board and doesn't think it can start on the add on boards. How do I ensure this? I know these are a lot of questions but I would like the project to go well the first time and not have to re-do it if possible.

[Router-Jim]

What about the board location on the sled? Important or not? Also, you mentioned that the machine will measure the board and if everything agrees the CW will start carving.

Board location is important. It needs to be placed on the sled starting at the edge of the sled that is nearest the keyboard.

I also want to make sure you understand what I said before. Have the CW measure the board. If all agrees then you can proceed with your carving be starting at the project menu, the machine does not do that automatically.

[rogone]

Thanks Jim. I'm going to try this tomorrow so hopefully everything will go ok.

[Router-Jim]

Roger, I just went out to the shop and looked at my machine. It's key #7 that you should press to have the machine measure the board.

Good luck.

[rogone]

Board location is important. It needs to be placed on the sled starting at the edge of the sled that is nearest the keyboard.

Well, I thought I would be able to start carving today but in trying to following the instructions and guidance I think I see a problem. I am attaching a picture of the project I am trying to carve to give as a gift as that may help somebody help me. The size of the final project is 12.25 x 9.25 and the board I have for the carving is 14 15/16 x 11.75. If I place the board as was suggested against the side of my sled nearest the keyboard it looks to me like the chuck for the bits will likely hit the side of the sled (which is 2.25" high above the sled base). I think there has to be room to allow the cutting bit to cut along the side by the sled and for the router bits to get in and profile the sides. Also, in doing a trial set up its not clear to me how I can ensure that the CW will do all the cutting and profiling on the piece of wood I want it done on when I have added a piece of wood to each end to trick the CW into thinking I have a piece of wood thats at least 7" (3.5" on each end) longer than the actual piece. I don't want it to start the cutting and carving on one of these scrap peices. Any help with these questions would be greatly appreciated.

[TIMCOSBY]

i think you have built a sled to be used for scanning and need a "carrier sled" for carving where the top of your board is the same hieght as the carrier sled. do a search for sleds and you will see the carrier type most likely. the one on the carvewright site is for scanning.

[Dave-Carve]

Hi Roger
Why Are you even Using a SLED ???
If the board is longer than the carve by at least 7" ..
You shouldnt need a Sled ????
Unless I Missed Something:o

[Kenm810]

Hi Dave

Quote --(rogone) The size of the final project is 12.25 x 9.25 and the board I have for the carving is 14 15/16 x 11.75.

I almost missed it myself the first time I read it

[rogone]

As Ken noted, my stock is only a couple of inches longer than the finished project. Its still not clear to me why I need to add scrap pieces to the board to fool the CW into thinking the project board is longer than what it really is. I thought that was why you used a sled when this situation arose. By adding the scrap pieces its still not clear to me how the CW will know where the real board is so that all the carving and cutting takes place on it and not on the scrap pieces. Any help with understanding this would be appreciated.

[Dirtydan]

The answer is in what you told Designer the board size was. Designer uses the board size you entered as the actual project size.

If Designer thinks your using a board that is 14 15/16 x 11 3/4 then you will have to use a board that is 7" longer and about 2" wider to keep the project under the rollers at all times... If the board is not 22" long and 14" wide, you have to make a sled.

I'd make a sled that is 23" long and 14" wide. Then center the project in the Center/Center of the sled and then fill in the open areas with scrap wood of the same thickness. Rails would each be 1.625 x 23 inches and the end caps would each be 11.750 x 4.033 (I'd just make the end caps to 11.750 x 4)

If you told Designer that the board size was say... 13 x 11, then you coiuld use a carrier board that is 21" long... and 11" wide. Center the project on the carrier board and fill in the ends with scrap.

Note: Sled or Carrier Board, I always tape over the seams and ends of the board so the sensor only sees the true edges.

Hope this helps... :)

[Lin]

Roger, I'm gonna toss my two cents in here even though you may have it all figured out by now. I myself had a hard time understand what the "boys" were talking about when they said they used a sled to keep from wasting wood as I had seen the plans for the scanning sled and it has sides to it....I did not understand why I should build a sled unless I had the probe...well as it turns out...I do use a carrier board...that is also called a sled on the forums at times. Confused me faily good and by reading all the post in this thread I thought maybe it had you confused also. What I used is pieces of 1/4" ply that I have cut into standard sizes to fit the width of most of the wood I buy and/or cut down on the TS.
I personally just go with the width on my actual board for my sled and make it 8" (can be 7" but 8" will always work) longer than my virtual board. I then used two sided tape and tape my virtual board...the size I told it in the software board...or close..could be under as long as you have 3/4" on top and bottom in designer that isn't being cut in the center with two other piece of scrap wood the same thickness and width...one on each end to make up the 4" (can be 3.5") on each end of the length. As long as you are not doing a cut path you can use the sled again...if you are using a cut path remember it will cut thru the carrier board but you max cutting depth is 1". It is best not to use a cut path with a carrier board in my opinion. I myself don't ever use a cut path...I just use the path and have the 1/8" cutting bit cut down aprox. .125" or .250" and then do the rest of the cut out on the scrollsaw and sand off any lip on my penumatic sanders. Just my personal perference and if you don't have a scrollsaw that option isn't for you. I always stay under rollers and center to board for my carving...and I do not have the machine cut the board to size. Crossing my fingers that this helps someone...Cause I drove these guys nuts at first when I got my CW.
Lin

[Digitalwoodshop]

Rogone check out this post....

http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5548

Post #8

My designer would have the front scrap block in the right side of the screen. I just draw a 6 inch block in designer and place it to the right. Then I place my artwork in the center and leave the left side of designer blank. Using "place on end" it works great.

No wasted wood.

AL

[Ron]

one minor point.when i use the sled i use a hot glue gun a dab in each corner.If you use the sled alot double face tape gets expensive!

[rogone]

I really appreciate everybody's help with trying to explain how to do this project. I was really off base on how I thought this would work. I was planning on using the scanning sled I had built but this apparently would have been a mistake. I am also attaching the file I had for doing this project. I thought that the CW would see what the final project size was and cut the board down to that size. If you look at the attached file you will see that I did not have a cut path in it. I guess I should just cut the board down to the final size on by table saw and then I won't have to worry about having the CW do it. It also sounds like I need to make the board longer in the file by adding 3.5" to each end and then taping a 3.5" piece to each end of the real board and taping them all to a carrier board that is at least as long as the taped up pieces and as wide or a little wider.

Thanks again for everybodys help. You all have been very patient with all my questioning.

[rogone]

Well, I thought I had it but apparently I don't. I went into designer and tried maiking the board longer by 8" (4" on each side) but then I had to put a cut path in with the hope that I could then have the outside edges of the project routed. Designer won't let me do this. The routed edges always ends up going around the extra pieces on each end. I'm now thinking that I need to cut the project board to the final size, then have the CW measure it to make sure it sees the correct size or make an adjustment in designer to use the size that the CW thinks it is. If I make a carrier board that is the same width as the project board and 8" longer I can center the project board in the middle and then put two pieces of scrape on either end, taping over the joints. I then should tell the CW to not stay under rollers and put the design in the center. Does this sound correct? If this is right the only question I have is will having the scrap board on either end present a problem when the edges are routed to the programed profile? the bits would be cutting both the scrap and the project board when it runs down each end. I would appreciate any thoughts on this that anybody has. Thanks.

[Dirtydan]

rogone

I hope this will help... Picture vs 1,000 words....

[rogone]

Thanks for reply Dirtydan. The picture is helpful. I will have to make changes to the dimesions since the actual project size in designer is 12.25 x 9.25.

What is the purpose of the side rails? Also, with the actual project board surrounded on all 4 sides with scrap wood will they interfere with the CW routing the profile on the outside edges of the project board? Thanks again for you help.

[Dirtydan]

The side rails are there because the machine likes to have at least .750" of free space between the edge and any routing you might be doing... It assumes the edges will be routed. I always use 1" on each one... This allows the sled to be used for samller items if you want...just fill in the extra space... The same is true of the end pieces....

If the routing you used in right on he edge of the board, then half of it will go into the side rails and end pieces...

In your case I'd use a board that is 13 x 10. This will keep the route off the side and end pieces. I'd then use a table saw to trim off the unwanted ends... Or just let it rip... If you'r going to re-use the sled, it shouldn't matter as long as the routed edges do not go any deeper than 0.65".




Thanks for reply Dirtydan. The picture is helpful. I will have to make changes to the dimesions since the actual project size in designer is 12.25 x 9.25.

What is the purpose of the side rails? Also, with the actual project board surrounded on all 4 sides with scrap wood will they interfere with the CW routing the profile on the outside edges of the project board? Thanks again for you help.

[Dan-Woodman]

When you pick --edge rout--it will rout the entire board you have in designer.
You will have to select a rectangle the size you want your board and apply a router bit to that.

[rogone]

Your explanations were helpful and I think I should be able to go ahead and finally carve this project. Based on what I have read I think I also need to add the thickness of the sled to the project board actual thickness in designer since the CW dosen't know I'm using a carrier board.

[Dirtydan]

No, don't do that... The route depth and everything else will be based on the surface of the project...


Based on what I have read I think I also need to add the thickness of the sled to the project board actual thickness in designer since the CW dosen't know I'm using a carrier board.

[rogone]

Thanks once again Dirtydan. If it works out I'll post some pictures.

[Dirtydan]

Roger,

See attached pic.

This is the sled I use for my Semper Fidelis Plaques...

Note there is only 1/16" difference between the the Designer Board size and the size of th wood being used. The carving is 1" smaller than the Designer Size input...

[Kenm810]

Hey Dan,

That Sled photo is Definitely worth a thousand words, Maybe two. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif