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hwdesigns
12-27-2007, 02:18 AM
Can someone suggest the best material for constructing a sled or carrier board?

I'm having issues with stair-stepping which come and go, and I'd like to make a carrier or sled which would make perfect contact with the little brass wheel which measures x-position. I'd also like it to be fairly durable, so I can use it over and over. I'l also rather not need to add a fresh masking tape each time I insert or flip a project board.

I've thought of using hardboard (durable and very flat), but it is slick (at least on one side) and I've seen mention that the carrier cannot be slick. Hmm, maybe I should try the rough side.

I know from reading posts here that stair-stepping is a common problem. Has anyone determined the best sled/carrier material to prevent it (assuming all else is in order)?

Thanks in advance for your solutions/ideas.

Rickrljones
12-27-2007, 08:48 AM
Designer 1.125 addresses this issue, It seems to have been a issue in the earlier version of Designer. I also have been dealing with this problem. I don't think a Sled will resolve this. I made my Sled out of partical board, then I laminated it. I've also made on with MDF board, had no problem with it slipping.
Hope this helps you.
Rick

hwdesigns
12-27-2007, 09:13 AM
Thank you. I am already using Designer 1.125, and unfortunately it did not cure the stair-stepping.

I don't think the problem is that the sled is slipping on the sandpaper belts, but rather that the little brass wheel is not accurately tracking the board/sled. I made my sled out of pine which is pretty soft, and now the edge has developed tiny inperfections. I'm wondering if these could be causing the problem, even though I'm using masking tape over the tracking edge as suggested in other posts.

Maybe a harder material would not get minor dings as quickly. That's why I was considering tempered hardboard (masonite) for the tracking surface at least.

Rickrljones
12-27-2007, 10:12 AM
Thank you. I am already using Designer 1.125, and unfortunately it did not cure the stair-stepping.


I don't think the problem is that the sled is slipping on the sandpaper belts, but rather that the little brass wheel is not accurately tracking the board/sled. I made my sled out of pine which is pretty soft, and now the edge has developed tiny inperfections. I'm wondering if these could be causing the problem, even though I'm using masking tape over the tracking edge as suggested in other posts.


Maybe a harder material would not get minor dings as quickly. That's why I was considering tempered hardboard (masonite) for the tracking surface at least.



I've been carving photos of my grandson on corian and the last one I completed had stair-stepping, no need in wasting more corian if the problem has not be resolved. Darn it!!!

This might be the problem, pine being a soft wood it will crown. The brass tracking wheel must keep in contact with the sled at all times or it will give undesired results.

Sounds like your on the right track with harder material for your sled. I'll try a carving today and see what results I get with using Designer 1.125 and get back to you.
Hope this helps!!!

Rick

Kenm810
12-27-2007, 10:12 AM
I’ve made my sleds from all the materials mentioned above and still had random stair stepping.
And I too use the masking tape trick on the bottom of my project boards and sleds;
I fined for me it lasts 3 to 4 projects before replacing it.
Another trick that has been working very will for me is to occasionally
rough sand with 80 grit the bottom of my project or sled to improve the grip on the traction belts and the board sensor.
Also check to little rubber '0' ring on the sensor, it does ware and can become a bit flatten out.
It's worked for me. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

HighTechOkie
12-27-2007, 10:20 AM
My current sled is made from a 16" x 48" shelf board from Lowes. It is laminated on the top, bottom and 1 side with a particle board core. Cut it down to 14.5" wide and trim 3.5" off to place on top as a spacer from the end. It works okay for a quick sled.

Here is a board that doesn't need cut down.
ClosetMaid®
Completions® W6 48" White Top Shelf
47.875" W x 14.625" D
$12.97 (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=198140-77268-854000&lpage=none)

Rob

Dirtydan
12-27-2007, 10:46 AM
I make all my sleds out of MFD board. Never (Knock on wood) had a stair-stepping problem. If everything is square, and the head pressure on the rollers is right you shouldn't have a problem... Half the time I forget to even pull the little red handle out to lock the rollers in place... You problem could be the roller head pressure... to much or not enough... I would guess, not enough...



Can someone suggest the best material for constructing a sled or carrier board?

I'm having issues with stair-stepping which come and go, and I'd like to make a carrier or sled which would make perfect contact with the little brass wheel which measures x-position. I'd also like it to be fairly durable, so I can use it over and over. I'l also rather not need to add a fresh masking tape each time I insert or flip a project board.

I've thought of using hardboard (durable and very flat), but it is slick (at least on one side) and I've seen mention that the carrier cannot be slick. Hmm, maybe I should try the rough side.

I know from reading posts here that stair-stepping is a common problem. Has anyone determined the best sled/carrier material to prevent it (assuming all else is in order)?

Thanks in advance for your solutions/ideas.

DocWheeler
12-27-2007, 11:55 AM
Just seemed strange that nobody mentioned plywood for their sleds, that is all I ever used!
I have quite a few pieces of 3/4" plywood left from other projects, it has worked very well for me. So far, no stairsteps.

Kenm810
12-27-2007, 12:53 PM
Hi Ken,

Sorry I skipped right over plywood being used for sleds I know I do and probably many others that has a ready supply of cut offs.
I'd say I use plywood for more then half of my sleds, end filers, and rails. Don't waste it ,use it, plus it work fine.

DocWheeler
12-27-2007, 01:21 PM
Ken,

Sure seems strange to start a post with that name!
Your second attachment is very interesting, whatcha makin?
The wood-grain blocks look nice, but can't figure their use.
And the circular thingys look neat also!

Do you just carve things just to have pictures to show so you can humble us?:mrgreen:

mtylerfl
12-27-2007, 02:10 PM
I'll guess that the circular things are "ball-bearing" toy mazes.

The "clothed" posts could be used for almost anything. Great idea for dressing them up!

Kenm810
12-27-2007, 03:28 PM
Nope

The little Square Tree log Pedestals are to be used for Art bases and were requested by one of the Artist I do the art mounts and displays for, they will be painted and stained to simulate the real thing, or at least what a square log would look like if there was such a thing. The round maze or labyrinths are for another Artist, and will be incorporated into several repetitive art elements. Gee I thought by now most folks Knew I get to design and work on some strange stuff. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

Well Here's some more example of what I'm talking about
Even an old photo holding up an item some of you may recognize'

liquidguitars
12-27-2007, 03:52 PM
Birch plywood works fine for me and I like Melimene with tape and scoring on the contacts surfaces..

LG

mtylerfl
12-27-2007, 03:52 PM
Pretty Cool, Ken!

mtylerfl
12-27-2007, 04:14 PM
I'll guess that the circular things are "ball-bearing" toy mazes...

Although I guessed wrong, I think that would be a fun project - that is, making ball-bearing/marble maze puzzle toys with an inset / recessed clear plastic cover to seal the top!

AL (Digitalwoodshop) could probably sell a million of 'em at his shows!:D

Kenm810
12-27-2007, 04:43 PM
In my earlier post the square log pedestals are actually hollow with a ½”sides mitered, dittoed, and glued to receive the tree ringed top.
If anyone wants to try it, give it a shot. I'll see if I have to file for the maze on this computer, it took nearly 30 tries to get to work right for my needs.
It was enough to drive me to drink, or at least bonkers for a day or two. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif


Maze test runs from just one of my folders http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif

hwdesigns
12-27-2007, 11:26 PM
Thanks to all for their responses to my initial question regarding sled materials.

I have checked the roller pressure, and on my bathroom scales, the pressure is a bit high if anything, at 91 lbs. Before I mess with that, I think I'll try the "scratching" suggestion, using fairly coarse sandpaper.

If coarseness of the surface is the key, maybe I should try the standard hardboard, which has one smooth side and one quite rough side, with the rough side down. Has anyone tried that before.

I have checked the little rubber o-ring. It is present as it should be, and I can't detect any damage. But, still I'm getting stair-stepping, which is ruining my projects.

It is interesting that some people report experiencing stair-stepping a lot, and others say they never have experienced it. Makes me wonder if there is some subtle difference in the machines out there.

If anyone can shed further light on the stair-stepping problem, I would certainly appreciate it.

Jeff_Birt
12-27-2007, 11:56 PM
I just tried out a new carrier board/sled today made from 1/4" peg-board with the slick side up/rough side down.. The main idea was that the holes would allow for my downdraft system to still draw through the sled when the stock I'm carving is smaller than the sled. My first test went really bad, the cut was off by 1/8" over a 27" span. I tried Al's painters tape idea and had to stop the machine during the measurement phase at the sled was not feeding properly. Upon further inspection I saw that I had the rear guide plate slightly crooked and it was also too tight which allowed the sled to bind. I readjusted the plate using a piece of paper folded over double as a spacer gauge (still using the tape as the board bottom in pretty rough) and it ran beautifully. I cut out the top for a router table, table saw extension from a sink cut-out. It would have been perfect if I had gotten the mounting hole spacing correct for my router, still haven't figured out how to blame the machine for that goof :).

Kenm810
12-28-2007, 08:51 AM
Hey Jeff,

I like the idea of the 1/4'” Peg Board for a sled, I have both the tempered and regular that I use around the shop,
actually my first DD cabinet had a peg board top as a sanding table.
As soon as my machine gets back from LHR, I’ll give it a try.
I’ve found that many of the carving errors ( other than my own) and inconstant surfaces on my finished carved projects
along with the occasional jerking or slipping of the project on the traction belts,
are caused by the dust and chips that get wedged or trapped under the pressure rollers.
I’m always looking for new or innovative ways of solving or preventing this problem.

Thanks

zeke
02-23-2008, 12:51 PM
The peg board idea does sound like a good concept, does the board sensor have any issues with all the holes thinking it is finding the end of a board?