Is there any hope of getting a reliable machine?

[deemon328]

I was delighted to receive a Compucarve from my wife this Christmas. I followed all directions and updated the software and created a simple pattern. Sadly, on my first carve, I got the Z-axis stall 236 error. The router bit started out fine for the first half of the carve, then started to rise off the wood and go through the motions above the surface of the wood.

I really thought that after more than a year of this machine going through it's growing pains that I could receive a product that wasn't going to break right out of the box. I'm absolutely sick over the idea that a $2500 investment is going to need constant service.

I've seen lots of complaints on these forums answered in the same way..It's not for everyone, it's a hobby machine, you have to maintain the machine, it works better after you send it to Texas. They're all just excuses for the thing breaking. Have all you fanboys on the forums just accepted that your machine is going to be unreliable at some point, or is there really a likelyhood that I can get a good machine out of all this?

[ChrisAlb]

I was delighted to receive a Compucarve from my wife this Christmas. I followed all directions and updated the software and created a simple pattern. Sadly, on my first carve, I got the Z-axis stall 236 error. The router bit started out fine for the first half of the carve, then started to rise off the wood and go through the motions above the surface of the wood.

I really thought that after more than a year of this machine going through it's growing pains that I could receive a product that wasn't going to break right out of the box. I'm absolutely sick over the idea that a $2500 investment is going to need constant service.

I've seen lots of complaints on these forums answered in the same way..It's not for everyone, it's a hobby machine, you have to maintain the machine, it works better after you send it to Texas. They're all just excuses for the thing breaking. Have all you fanboys on the forums just accepted that your machine is going to be unreliable at some point, or is there really a likelyhood that I can get a good machine out of all this?

First... you lucky dog... WHAT A WIFE!!... lol

Believe me I understand your frustration but don't give up the WONDERFUL Christmas spirit and thrill just yet. I bought mine (myself...lol) back in August and had nothing but problems within the first 8 cutting hours out of the box. Man it hurt bad as I LOVE woodworking. Now, I've been carving away to hearts delight with only occasional hiccups.

LHR has been EXEMPLARY in their response to user needs and issues. In the scheme of things they are very young, had NO idea the level of response they'd get from people wanting this machine and they've quite literally worked their butts off keeping up. In my opinion, enough to make me VERY HAPPY I kept mine.

Hang in there sir and if you really love carving, you'll be glad you did. Go through the motions, post your issues and any number of very smart and talented folks in here will run to help.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! (it still is....) :cool:

Chris

[Jeff_Birt]

The vast majority of problems with the machine have their root in user error. That is not to say that the machine will never break.

When you updated the software did you also update the firmware on your memory card? Also, it would be that your carving bit was not touching down on the bit plate properly. (The little plate that flips out in the rear of the machine). If the bit does not touch squarely on the top of the plate it will not get a good reading of the bit height.

If all else fails give CW tech support a call.

[mtylerfl]

Hello deemon328,

Firstly, welcome to the Forum.

I am sorry that you are experiencing a problem.

A possible cause for the error you describe could be that the board you used was too short and one end of the board left the hold-down rollers during the carve. That could allow "board lift" and cause a Z error.

Standard practice is to make your "real" board at least 7" longer than your "virtual" board that is displayed in the Designer software. For example, if your software layout has a "virtual" board that is 12" long, then the "real" board you put into the machine needs to be at least 19" long to keep the project under the rollers at all times.

Please let us know if your board was long enough or not. Also, you can attach the mpc to this thread if you wish, so that we can see what the actual project details are.

We all want you to be successful and enjoy your new machine. Just know that you are not alone, and we will help in any way possible.

[deemon328]

Thank you for the replies.

I updated my software(1.125) and firmware on the card at the same time.

I called LHR today and they're shipping me a Z pack. You're absolutely correct that their support is fast and easy to get along with. I think this was the problem overall after talking with them. I really hope that this is all that will go wrong. You can see on the photo that on the last 1/4" or so of the carve, the bit started to raise until it exited the workpiece altogether.

Thank you for the tip on the board length, but the board wasn't lifting during the cut. One of my intended uses will be for adding a signature and logo to the bottom of the routed bowls I make, so I think I'll only be under one roller for some of them. It was my impression that not keeping the work under both rollers could impact carving quality but the board wouldn't actually lift in these situations would it? I have plenty of experience making a flat board, so stock prep isn't an issue.

Regarding the bit plate, how far is it supposed to shoot out? When the bit contacts the plate, it's just barely on the flat of the plate near where the plate rounds over at the end. Maybe that should be coming out more. It hits the plate once, then the plate flips back and out again. Then on the second hit, it barely touches the plate, but the plate stays out. That's it, then it goes back to the stock side to find the board.

It's really great to hear from someone who had nightmare problems out of the box, but then got them fixed. That's exactly the kind of mental support that I needed to help me stay positive!

I have so many ideas for how this could revolutionize my projects. I can't wait to get it going.

[ChrisAlb]

That could be it right there. My plate comes out enough for the bit to hit the center of it.
That's a nice job on a nice of piece of oak. I'm chicken, I always test a carve on pine at normal quality. If it comes out decent I know I'll getnice results on hard wood set to best.

Chris

[mtylerfl]

Thank you for the tip on the board length, but the board wasn't lifting during the cut. One of my intended uses will be for adding a signature and logo to the bottom of the routed bowls I make, so I think I'll only be under one roller for some of them. It was my impression that not keeping the work under both rollers could impact carving quality but the board wouldn't actually lift in these situations would it? I have plenty of experience making a flat board, so stock prep isn't an issue.

Hello deemon328,

It is very important that whatever you carve stays under both rollers. Even though you may not be able to visually see evidence of "board lifting" the machine is sensitive enough that it can, leaving the potential for z-errors and other potential problems.

For your bowls, you probably should make a sled jig that will allow the project to maintain even contact at all times when being transported under the rollers (i.e., the bowl and jig are exactly the same height with a length sufficient to maintain both rollers in contact with the project).

Perhaps the z-pak needs replacement, perhaps not, but since you were given that option, I'd take it - won't hurt anything either way.

Did you try running your project again with adequate length added? Just curious if that made the problem "go away" or not. I have found that by simply adding the proper length to the project avoids all kinds of problems/issues for the vast majority of folks.

Your feedback helps us too. We're all learning together.

All the Best!

[Jeff_Birt]

Regarding the bit plate, how far is it supposed to shoot out?


The plate should come out far enough for the bit to touch on the flat part. Several things can intefere with proper operation of the bit plate. There is a PDF in the post stickied to the top of the troubleshooting section that will give you several things to check for. I have found the metal-metal contact area between the Y-truck and bit plate (Y-truck hits bit plate forcing it to pivot out) is usually the biggest problem. Check the mating area of the Y-truck and bit plate for burrs and then put a drop of bycycle chain wax on your finger and rub it on the contact area. The chain wax provides a slick surface that will not collect sawadust or dirt. (do not use oil as oil + sawdust = paste).



so I think I'll only be under one roller for some of them. It was my impression that not keeping the work under both rollers could impact carving quality but the board wouldn't actually lift in these situations would it?


You will save yourself loads of grief (and broken bits) if you always have stock under both rollers. If the stock is only under one it can cause tipping as the board is now only held down by the pressure of one roller. It can also this allow the stock to slip on the traction belts. Picture it in you mind, you have the board held down by one pressure roller with some length of it out the other end of the machine. The outfeed roller will act as a fulcrum allowing the end of the board under the roller to actually push UP.

You can always use a carrier board or sled to hold smaller pieces.

[Dirtydan]

deemon328

As you've read, using a sled will fix just about 95% of most problems... If most of your carving are going to be the same size.... Sled it... It's well worth the time. If you not sure, do like I did...make a Big @#$%^ sled... It will handle anything up to 12.5" wide and 48" long. The actual sled is 14.5" wide and 56" long... I also have several sleds for different projects and board thicknesses.... It's the only way to go...:D

Note on sled designs.... Because I'm lazy, I always do the following.... Make the sled 2" wider than your board and 7" longer. I use 1" wide strips on the top and bottom and 3.5" filler boards on each end. This way when the machine measures the board/sled all you have to do is push the "OK" on everything except "Cut board to Size" unless that's what you want to do... This will maintain the orginial design size and center it on the board just like you wanted it...

[Kenm810]

See I told ya Dan,
Them sleds sing and dance like Rabbits http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif

[TIMCOSBY]

some don't. my first one works great. bought a second one and it had gremlins right out of the box and i wasn't doing anything different than i do on the other one. qaulity control is my guese.

[ChrisAlb]

See I told ya Dan,
Them sleds sing and dance like Rabbits http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif


OK Ken, Dan, now I'm curious. I've only been using my machine for about a week or so now. I just made a small sled to hold an 8" x 6" picture frame for scanning with the probe. (my first scan...VERY cool!). I thought that's about all you'd need a sled for other than maybe some very small carving. It would seem after reading in here that you guys use sleds for much more?

If you had say a 48" 1 x 6 to carve something on, would you use a sled? I've always just put the board in there even when doing cut outs. The results have always been fine but would a sled be better?

Christmas day I carved a little figurine from a 4x4. it's only about 3 x 3 and I thought about a sled but just used a 12" chunk by itself.

[Dirtydan]

Well you kind-of broke the code... you can either use extra wood (7" longer and 1-2" wider) or carve edges of the wood with a sled. The main thing is keeping either the wood or the sled under both rollers at all times. If I wanted to carve the 48" 1 x 6 all the way to both ends and/or have the carving 6" wide, I'd build a sled.

I'd get some 0.750" MFD board and make a sled that was 56" long and 7.250" wide (depends on the actual width of the board, I always add 2"). I'd then make two side rails 56" long and 1" wide from the same MFD board. I'd then make the end caps 3.5" x (the space between the side rails) we'll assume 5.250"... I'd then either Glue and pin the pieces together or screw them together...

I assume Ken's process is some what the same...


OK Ken, Dan, now I'm curious. I've only been using my machine for about a week or so now. I just made a small sled to hold an 8" x 6" picture frame for scanning with the probe. (my first scan...VERY cool!). I thought that's about all you'd need a sled for other than maybe some very small carving. It would seem after reading in here that you guys use sleds for much more?

If you had say a 48" 1 x 6 to carve something on, would you use a sled? I've always just put the board in there even when doing cut outs. The results have always been fine but would a sled be better?

Christmas day I carved a little figurine from a 4x4. it's only about 3 x 3 and I thought about a sled but just used a 12" chunk by itself.

[ChrisAlb]

Well you kind-of broke the code...
I assume Ken's process is some what the same...

OK then, I thought maybe I was taking a risk not using a sled for cut outs. Yep I'm always under rollers regardless of the process. Simply makes sense and the 7 inches of leftover wood works well in jigs or the woodstove...lol

I'm a big believe in "Give me a big enough lever and I'll move the world"

One roller makes a mighty nice fulcrum.

[Dirtydan]

You'll find that even on short pieces of wood, say 12" long, if the wood is only under one roller, the carved region will shift in depth... You will see a raised area on each end... not much, but just enough to notice...



One roller makes a mighty nice fulcrum.

[mtylerfl]

If you use a 3/4" sled with 3/4" stock, you'll need to make your sled 14.5" wide so that you are prompted to manually enter the actual board thickness for the benefit of your cutpath cutouts. (Otherwise, you'll get an error message 'cause the machine will think you're trying to cutout pieces from 1 1/2" thick stock.)

[Kenm810]

A few reasons why I use my sleds

No more tip-ups when the stock comes out from under the pressure rollers, No more digging in, or damaging the traction belts by slightly rounder the under side of the ends of the sled, no more wondering if your stock is 1000% perfectly flat and straight, No more wasted stock having to leave 3.5" at each end of the carving, and probably other reasons I forgot or haven’t realized yet myself. Couple weeks ago at the Detroit wood worker show, I mentioned that I do nearly all my projects on a sled of one type or another, to the CW Rep at the show, His return comment was that he wished more folks would use sleds, that they solve or prevent a myriad of errors and machine problems.
Now you have to take all of this info as the options of a few fellow carvers, and that everyone else is also initialed to theirs.
It works for me. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[Dirtydan]

Looks like LHR is in need of another software/firmware update...

The value you enter into the Board Settings Dimensions should be enough. If I tell the machine the board is .0250" thick, then that's what I want it to maintain. Cut-path should cut to a depth of 0.251" not 2.250" just because it thinks it is 2.25" Thick..(assuming either the board is 2.500" thick or the sled base is 2" thick)... If nothing else, it should ask you what thickness you want the Cut-Path to cut toooooooo.


If you use a 3/4" sled with 3/4" stock, you'll need to make your sled 14.5" wide so that you are prompted to manually enter the actual board thickness for the benefit of your cutpath cutouts. (Otherwise, you'll get an error message 'cause the machine will think you're trying to cutout pieces from 1 1/2" thick stock.)

[mtylerfl]

Hello Dirtydan,

Yes, a feature that would allow you to specify the "real" board depth would be nice - especially when using cutpaths on stock that is riding on a sled.

Currently, the board thickness setting in Designer is just for the preview on-screen. The "real" depth is what the machine measures the board to be when you are setting up a carve.

The combined thickness of the sled and the board is what the machine registers as the total thickness of the project.

By using a sled that is 14.5" wide, you "fool" the machine because it cannot measure the total depth and will automatically prompt you to enter a depth measurement.

So, if your sled+board thickness is over 1", the machine won't know that, if your sled is 14.5" wide. When you enter the actual board thickness (say, .75") then cutpaths will perform properly and at the correct depth, leaving the tabs around the cutpath as normal.

[Ivanq]

Why I use sleds for almost everything.

Where I live poplar is about $4.50 a board foot with cherry running $7.50. If I do not use a sled I end up with a minimum of 7x11 inches of scrap per carved project (in two pieces). At that rate 10 projects would equal almost 6 board feet of scrap - $40.00+ worth of cherry.

I built individual sleds for the most common sized projects that I will carve. Then I had the machine measure the sleds and took those numbers and created blank projects using those dimensions in designer. I then use ‘Save As’ when I design a new project of that size. All my sleds are the same thickness. Sleds also allow me to do a ‘cut though’ without using ‘cut path’.

As for the additional weight that the sleds have I purchased two all metal roller stands (on sale at Sears for $10@) that solves that problem.

It took a bit of time to build the sleds but it’s cold here and I can’t carve most days as I carve outside on the patio. Perfect time to build sleds and other support stuff. But the weather will warm up and I should be set to get after it when it does.

Now I putting together a list of parts that I might need when I start up again - replacement belts and such.

As you can probably tell this is a hobby for me that I really enjoy. Problems and all.

Cliff in Roswell

[mtylerfl]

Hello Ivanq,

Thank you for your explanation of your use of sleds.

You mentioned that you "cut-through" instead of using the "cut-path" feature in Designer when using your sled.

Newcomers may not realize that cut-throughs have the potential for damaging the machine and bits if not properly secured onto the sled.

Question - What is your technique to keep the cutouts from being knocked loose and "flying" free within the machine since the cutouts don't have the safety tabs like the cutpath feature automatically provides?

[Ivanq]

Mtylerfl
MTYLERFL ---

Some time back I put together a little tutorial on how I use a sled and how I use 'cut through' instead of 'cut path'. Keep in mind that the tutorial is not very fancy but I think it explains what I do. I'm sure there are other mehods that would work as well.

This is the URL:
http://myweb.cableone.net/kpack/nra/NRA%20Tutorial.htm

Hope this Helps
Cliff in Roswell - - -

[Dirtydan]

Cliff,

While that is a way of doing it, it also waste a lot of cut-motor time and carving time. If you use Cut-path, the carve time would be 1/4 the time... That would work fine for a very small area on thin material I guess. I think 8 or 9 passes with the cutting bit is a lot better use of electricity, carve-motor time and your time -vs- several hundred passes with the carving bit... But you are right, that's a way to do it...

Michael,

I made a new sled with a .750 thick base and 14.520" wide and loaded a 0.750 thick piece of Oak into the sled. The machine said the wood was to thick to cut-thru and gave me the option to Abort or Continue... Nothing about how thick the cut should be... I told it to continue and now it's carving the project.... I'm hoping that when it gets to the end and I load the cutter bit, it will ask me what the thickness is then... Is this right????


Mtylerfl
MTYLERFL ---

Some time back I put together a little tutorial on how I use a sled and how I use 'cut through' instead of 'cut path'. Keep in mind that the tutorial is not very fancy but I think it explains what I do. I'm sure there are other mehods that would work as well.

This is the URL:
http://myweb.cableone.net/kpack/nra/NRA%20Tutorial.htm

Hope this Helps
Cliff in Roswell - - -

[HighTechOkie]

Nope, it will just start the cut path and go 1" deep since sled+board>1". It works, but does cut up the sled.

Rob

[Dirtydan]

That's what I though might happen.... Well, that's better than going all the way through...

Thanks for the response Rob...


Nope, it will just start the cut path and go 1" deep since sled+board>1". It works, but does cut up the sled.

Rob

[Ivanq]

DirtyDan

I might be missing something here as I'm still a novice at all of this but how would you do a 'cut path' around the edges of the eagle without going into the right side of the design? I thought at one time using the spline tool might be a method but that was far above my skills unless I was using it wrong. A real pain when using around the bottom of the wing next to the feathers even using the 'outline pattern' and then trying to trace. Too bad there isn't a tool like in CorelDraw to help with this. (another skill I'm trying to learn).

But, as I said, I may be missing something here - - - - -

Cliff in Roswell

[mtylerfl]

DirtyDan

I might be missing something here as I'm still a novice at all of this but how would you do a 'cut path' around the edges of the eagle without going into the right side of the design? I thought at one time using the spline tool might be a method but that was far above my skills unless I was using it wrong. A real pain when using around the bottom of the wing next to the feathers even using the 'outline pattern' and then trying to trace. Too bad there isn't a tool like in CorelDraw to help with this. (another skill I'm trying to learn).

But, as I said, I may be missing something here - - - - -

Cliff in Roswell

Hello Cliff,

The "trick" is to create a rectangle pattern (in Corel, Photoshop, whatever - it doesn't matter) and use that instead of drawing a rectangle within Designer.

Then, select both the Eagle and the rectangle patterns, click the Outline Tool, then select the Cut Path Tool for each of the generated outlines and it will automatically cut out the perimeter and the voids for you. No need to use the carving bit to "tediously" remove all that wood.

I did a quick example for you and took a couple screen shots...one of the pics is just the outlines only for clarity.

[mtylerfl]

Michael,

I made a new sled with a .750 thick base and 14.520" wide and loaded a 0.750 thick piece of Oak into the sled. The machine said the wood was to thick to cut-thru and gave me the option to Abort or Continue... Nothing about how thick the cut should be... I told it to continue and now it's carving the project.... I'm hoping that when it gets to the end and I load the cutter bit, it will ask me what the thickness is then... Is this right????

I did a quick test at my end - used a sled nearly 14.75" wide .75" thick with a board on top measuring the same (actually two boards pushed together to equal the width of the sled).

Proceeded to set up a carve with cutpaths, and did NOT get the error message regarding "too thick" nor an Abort or Continue message, nor an opportunity to enter a board thickness either! Scratching my head on this one...I must be doing something wrong. I'll have to play with it some more this weekend, I guess.

EDIT: ...maybe the total thickness is too much...gonna try thinner stock...trying to recall what I did before

[Jeff_Birt]

I have only got the wide sled trick to work with a 'Cut path' with the total thickness was less than 1". The recent updates in firmware could have altered this too. Now that we also have the choice of offsetting vector cutting paths we can also just use 'Select bit' with the 1/8" cutting bit and offset the cut when using a sled.

[jpeter14]

I always have scraps laying around, so to get the 7" plus I will hot glue a piece on each end 3.5" at least sith same thickness, then work piece "stays under rollers".

[ChrisAlb]

I always have scraps laying around, so to get the 7" plus I will hot glue a piece on each end 3.5" at least sith same thickness, then work piece "stays under rollers".


Not that the 7" is of too much concern but, hot glue? Is that strong enough for the head weight? Did it ever come off on you?

[jpeter14]

Nope, has never broken off, just make sure it is same thickness as project piece and same width. I some put a piece of masking tape over join to hide it a little better. I haven't tried gluing a piece on the width of project yet, I have only been at this for about a month.

[mtylerfl]

I have only got the wide sled trick to work with a 'Cut path' with the total thickness was less than 1". The recent updates in firmware could have altered this too. Now that we also have the choice of offsetting vector cutting paths we can also just use 'Select bit' with the 1/8" cutting bit and offset the cut when using a sled.

Hello Jeff,

After scratching my hair off, I finally broke down and called LHR tech support.

The Tech tells me that the trick of using the 14.5" wide sled no longer works with firmware versions after 1.120.

However, he is going to run a test at their end to see if using a 15" wide sled will "force" it to work. I mentioned to him that the sliding plate won't allow a 15" width. He said that I could loosen the screws holding the plate on and that would allow me to "scoot" it a little wider to accept the 15" width.

Anyway, he's supposed to call back after he runs the test and let me know if it will work.

NOTE: He said that they are aware of the issue and are working to correct it in a future update, although there is no definite time frame for when that might occur.

[mtylerfl]

Hello Jeff,

After scratching my hair off, I finally broke down and called LHR tech support.

The Tech tells me that the trick of using the 14.5" wide sled no longer works with firmware versions after 1.120.

However, he is going to run a test at their end to see if using a 15" wide sled will "force" it to work. I mentioned to him that the sliding plate won't allow a 15" width. He said that I could loosen the screws holding the plate on and that would allow me to "scoot" it a little wider to accept the 15" width.

Anyway, he's supposed to call back after he runs the test and let me know if it will work.

NOTE: He said that they are aware of the issue and are working to correct it in a future update, although there is no definite time frame for when that might occur.

Just got off the phone with the Tech at LHR.

He said he did a test with a 15" wide sled made of 3/4" plywood (had to remove the sliding guide plate to allow the 15" width to fit). He then said he placed 1/2" stock on top of the sled measuring the same 15" width.

In the software, he said he made a project specifying a 1/2" thickness and made a cutpath.

He uploaded the project to the card and ran the project. He says since the machine cannot measure the depth becasue of the 15" wide sled, the project made the cutpaths properly with the "safety" tabs.

I asked if he thought that would work with 1/4" stock, he says he thinks it will, but didn't try that. However, he says the software accepted the 1/4" thickness and it uploaded to the card with no problem (he did that while we were on the phone together).

I mentioned that the overall thickness in his test was 1 1/4", and told him that I understood that the total depth had to be less than 1" for the "trick" to work. He said he didn't think so, since the project worked fine. He also said it could be over 1 1/4" and thought that would be fine, too although he did not test that.

I asked him if the machine prompted him for a depth, he said "no". I asked what version of the software he was running when he performed the test...it was 1.125.

I asked him if the stock on top of the sled has to be the same width as the sled. He said he thought so (that's what he did), but pointed out that "filler" stock could be used to make up the total 15" width.

If someone is so inclined, you might want to try what the Tech described above and give us some additional feedback.

[TIMCOSBY]

now thats tech support!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

[deemon328]

The plate should come out far enough for the bit to touch on the flat part. Several things can intefere with proper operation of the bit plate. There is a PDF in the post stickied to the top of the troubleshooting section that will give you several things to check for. I have found the metal-metal contact area between the Y-truck and bit plate (Y-truck hits bit plate forcing it to pivot out) is usually the biggest problem. Check the mating area of the Y-truck and bit plate for burrs and then put a drop of bycycle chain wax on your finger and rub it on the contact area. The chain wax provides a slick surface that will not collect sawadust or dirt. (do not use oil as oil + sawdust = paste).

The y-truck travels normally until it hits touches the back part of the bit plate (the little angled end that sticks out) where it then stops.The bit is just making the flat part of the bit plate when it flips out at this point, but it's nowhere near the center of the plate.

I've tried the bit plate PDF troubleshooting. The little screw is tight. I performed the bearing sweeper mod and even removed it altogether, but it didnt allow the y-truck to slide further right. I didn't feel any kind of burr between the y-truck and bit plate. I can force the y-truck over a little bit and hold open the bit plate to make it go to the midpoint, but there's too much resistance for that to be made a normal motion. It feels like the y-truck hits solid frame underneath the cover somewhere, preventing further travel.

Anyhow, there's some more info to add to the pot. As long as I'm contacting the flat part of the bit plate, shouldn't I be ok?

[Kenm810]

Quote ---
I've tried the bit plate PDF troubleshooting.

You may have already checked it, but in the PDF it mentions the wire retaining clip being in the proper location.
I my case it the wire its self that was causing problems
with my touch plate. The truck was Hanging up when it hit the wire.
In some recent photos it show the wire with a large corrugated cover which
also could stop the ‘Y’ truck from making the touch pad from coming all the way out.
Just a thought

[deemon328]

I must not be looking at the same PDF. I see that picture on mine, but it makes no mention of that wire or clip, just the screw. I'm headed out to check it out now. Where'd you find that guide? In the sticky Troubleshooting PDF's post?

[deemon328]

I have no clip on that side, just the corrugated cover. It makes sense to me that this is the hang up, because I can slide the Y-truck over another 1/8" or so if I move it by hand. Also, my cover is plastic and is held down by a screw(visible in the picture) compared to your picture which looks like a metal enclosure.

So now what? Is there a re-routing procedure? I'm sure that sheath is on there to prevent wear to the wires. What did you do to fix your problem with the wires?

It looks like the wire housing could have a channel routed leading to the right of the wires, so that they could be rerouted. There's a good 1/4" or so of open space between where the wires are now and the cover.

[Kenm810]

Mine is a little older machine about a year old this month.
I have the smaller pack of wires as seen the the photo.
I got out the handy - Dandy Duct tape and tape them out of the way.
I don't if you'll have much slack to work with, but it's wreath a try.

Hope it helps (The photo is from the old PDF I have on file)

[deemon328]

Ahh, the old stand-by, duct tape ;) I have a good bit of play with the wires, so I"m sure I could tape them over, although they'd have a bit of a bend in them to get out of the way of the y-truck. It would probably be easier to raise the corrugated sleeve up a bit first, then tape the wires over.

Comparing the two pictures, your wires seem to be set over all the way into the corner, while mine are nearly 1/2" out.

[Gunner]

Also check Roller Bearing Sweeper for clearance. Some of these needed to be trimmed to gain clearance.

Gunner

[deemon328]

Thanks, I did try that, even going so far as to remove the bearing sweeper altogether. I really think it's this wire cover and lack of a retainer clip that's causing the problem.