Sanding my projects when complete

[kwklein]

I am in search for some help and good advice on sanding my projects when they are complete. Does anyone out there have any good methods on what is the best thing to use to get all the fuzzies from the project???

[Bubbabear]

I saw it on here somewhere using a brass wire toothbrush. i found mine at ace hardware. i know there have been many other great ideas

[DocWheeler]

KW,

You can get brass welders brushes at Home Depot. Some folk said they used the brass wheels on a dremel. Others have burned them off after dampening the piece.
I may use a brass wire brush to get the easy ones off but use carvers files and 3M radial bristle disks from Otto Frei. If you are going to create many things with deep relief to finish, you might as well go for the bulk discount of 144 (I think that is correct).
I used bunches (technical term) of the 200, 400, and pumice.
On broad surfaces, a Sanding Mop is good.

[Azbear]

I like to use the small Dremmell(sp?) 3m buffing wheels. The ones I use are a pack of 2. I bit pricey, but the time saved is worth it to me. Most home improvement stores carry them in the tool section. I've also purchased some on line to save a buck or 2.

[kwklein]

Thanks Az. Thats what I've been using but wanted to try and get away from them because , yes they are expensive and they dont last very long. Cant even get thru 1/3 of a project before changing the pad.. Kinda glad to see someone else uses them too and thinks they are priceeeeee. I am going to be out and about today so I am going to try the wire brush ideas, Thanks all for your responces...

[Michigander]

Contour Sander

This is what the wife and I use,works great

[Azbear]

Contour Sander

This is what the wife and I use,works great

Ok, uncle.

What the heck is it? Hard to tell from the pic. Perhaps a mini hot dog tongs for the grill? (hehe) Really, what is it?

[Kenm810]

Here ya Go

6000-01 Contour Sander KitThe Dremel Contour Sander is a compact, lightweight sanding tool that provides ultra-smooth results on a variety of surfaces and materials. Use it to sand contoured surfaces such as spindles, curved moldings, and grooves as well as flat surfaces like shutters, slats and wood details. With multiple contour shapes and variable speeds, it has the power and precision you need to virtually eliminate hand sanding.

[sirsumm]

I was using the 3m scotch bright disks from Home Depot, until I saw a post here talking about making their own. I tried it, and am very happy with the results. make 1.5 inch squares of grey scotch bright, and bolt 2 together 90 degrees off to help with the balance. Once you use it for a minute, it becomes a large round scotch bright wheel. It's nice to have the larger wheel, they cause less pressure on the soft pine I am working with, and they cost a fraction of the cost that the store bought ones do.

[DrBob]

Got any pics for us?
pictures worth a thousand words
Bob

[Kenm810]

Here's the ones I've been making http://forum.carvewright.com/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[DrBob]

Cool Idea!
Thanks for the pics Ken

[jwhllh55]

Here ya Go

6000-01 Contour Sander KitThe Dremel Contour Sander is a compact, lightweight sanding tool that provides ultra-smooth results on a variety of surfaces and materials. Use it to sand contoured surfaces such as spindles, curved moldings, and grooves as well as flat surfaces like shutters, slats and wood details. With multiple contour shapes and variable speeds, it has the power and precision you need to virtually eliminate hand sanding.

Ken,
Where did you find that sander? I'm in a remote location and I have to drive 120 miles to Boise to get supplies. I really like this sander and would love to get one to use.
John Hammett

[Termite]

Check out www.stockroomsupply.com. The product I use is the 6" sanding mop. I have one mounted on their 1/4" mandrel that I use in a 3/8 electric drill for hand work. I have another one mounted on a 4 1/2" x 1/2" bolt mounted in the drill press. I do not use the stabilizers but I do use the spacers. It might seem a little expensive but it was money well spent. I have been using the mop for about four months and they still work great. It will take a lot of sanding to wear them out. I would suggest the 180 grit to try it to see if it is for you and then you can try the other grits as you see fit. I have the 120 grit and 220 grit. The 120 grit is faster for cleaning up but if you were to overdue it it would take some details off. The 220 takes longer to clean up and I find it almost impossiable to lose any detail. That is why from my experiance I would suggest the 180 grit. I have never had it chip or lose any details on lettering. I do not use the centerline for my lettering. Try it, you might like it, you might not, works great for me. Better than those little dremel sander mops that wear out in two minutes. The drill press one is great. You just stick in up in the mop and work it all around.

Dan

[Kenm810]

Hey John,

I've seen them at Lowes and our local Home Depot,
and one or two tool outlet around here. So I'm sure it in other wood working stores as well.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/kit-detail.htm?H=188090&G=69667&I=66209&KI=69848

Here's a site that might head you in the right direction
plus I know it's being sold online. http://forum.carvewright.com/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[hotpop]

One night while brushing my teeth with my Crest electric tooth brush it occurred to me that this toothbrush would make the perfect mini detail sander. It has two actions. The end rotates in both directions and the rows go back and forth in a linear motion. Now if I were to replace the bristles with a soft piece of rubber then I could make little 1/2" disks of adhesive back sandpaper.

Anyway I haven't seen anything on the market that is even similar to it. I asked around the Woodworker's Show last weekend but no one has seen anything like it either.

It seems to me that someone with some venture capital and resources could come up with a product like my tooth brush. Retail outlets could be woodworking supplies, hobby and craft supplies. Billy Maze could even sell them as a multi-purpose toothbrush for the woodworker. Buy one and get the second one free.

Anyway if any of you guys know of something similar, please let me know.

[mtylerfl]

That's a great idea, hotpop.

Please let us know how well it works after you've made the modification and tried it on some wood.

[Durtdawber]

You could cut the bristles off then attach some velcro. Then use the sandpaper disc for the new orbital sanders to cut sizes that fit.

Great idea.

[hotpop]

I like the velcro idea. - Thanks!

[upcedar]

I like to Wet sand my stuff, goood finish.

[DON FIELDS]

I have been a member of this forum for one year now and I can't remember anyone ever mentioning to coat the finished project with a "sanding sealer" as soon or before actually sanding the wood. The sanding sealer, after dry, will actually allow the 'fuzzies' to clean up easier than not sealing. Just thought I would suggest what my standard practice is. The sealer also acts a stable base for staining .

[pkunk]

I have been a member of this forum for one year now and I can't remember anyone ever mentioning to coat the finished project with a "sanding sealer" as soon or before actually sanding the wood. The sanding sealer, after dry, will actually allow the 'fuzzies' to clean up easier than not sealing. Just thought I would suggest what my standard practice is. The sealer also acts a stable base for staining .
I've posted in that vein many times. Unfortunately, most of those posts just get lost in a tangle of babel, so are difficult to find. Sanding sealer is good. Stiffens up the fuzzies so they sand right off with usually just some 3M disks.
It also seals the end grain so that paint won't bleed.

[TIMCOSBY]

use a torch to burn them off especilly the sides that have all those ridges i burn a little longer to smooth them out. i don't wet and haven't caught one on fire that wasn't put out with a short breath.

[mtylerfl]

I have been a member of this forum for one year now and I can't remember anyone ever mentioning to coat the finished project with a "sanding sealer" as soon or before actually sanding the wood. The sanding sealer, after dry, will actually allow the 'fuzzies' to clean up easier than not sealing. Just thought I would suggest what my standard practice is. The sealer also acts a stable base for staining .

Helo Don,

I also use a sanding sealer on all my projects. It's not only good to do before sanding, it "evens out" the grain for staining and is a great surface prep before painting, as well.

I use Bullseye SandingSealer - one light coat (2 parts sealer mixed with 3 parts Denatured Alcohol)

[bizbiki]

I've been using a sanding mop, with great results. Its basically 1 inch strips of sand paper which have had fingers cut into them, laying at 90 angles to each other (about 10 to 15 per mop) mounted to an arbor which you chuck into your drill press. They come in a variety of grits and are available from \

Stockroomsupply.com


Louie

[Kenxxx]

I find the 3M Radial Bristle Discs great for cleaning up fuzzies, etc. I use a three inch diameter at 15,000 rpm. They come in different grits from 36 to 400 and can be seen at
www.3M.com/creativearts or call 1-866-279-1288, ext. 1225. They are so flexible that I can force them into corners and down into recessed letters.

[mtylerfl]

We have found that the 3/4" 3M discs safely remove fuzzies from detailed carvings, without loss of detail. Stack multiple discs (3 to 6 or more) on a Dremel-type mandrel (3/32" dia. McMaster part # 4494A44) to suit the task at hand.

http://www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com/) sells the madrels and discs online (discs are about 88 cents each). We use McMaster part # 4494A19 (80 grit), part #4494A18 (220 grit) and #4494A17 (400 grit) discs.

[hotpop]

A couple a weeks ago I put up a post #16 "Looking for a Mini Detail Sander" one of the suggestions from Durtdawber was to to use velcro to attach the sandpaper.

OK, I did it. I cut the bristles off my Crest SpinBrush toothbrush and with 5 minute epoxy attached a piece of velcro. I then cut a piece of 220 grit velcro backed orbital sander disk.

As soon as I make a little punch I'll make some round disks from other grits.

This thing works great. Maybe Crest will be interested in diversifying.

[oldjoe]

What a brilliant idea who would of ever thought of that. Good thinking outside the box.

[Tom75]

i have started about 2 weeks ago carving the jewlrey box from the free pattern off the carvewrightsite but i have spent most of the time trying to sand it saw hot pop's idea and tryed it it woorks grate . THANK YOU VERRY MUCH . i think you should talk to crest about it .

[ChrisAlb]

I use my Dremel with the wire wheel. With a light touch it removes the fuzzys and with just a little more pressure it sands and also cleans and smooths out grooves. I used it for that Facade I made and it worked great.

But I'm gonna have to get one those tooth brushes. I still use the old fashioned hand powered kind. So much for resisting what I once thought was "silly" technology!

Great Idea!

[Big Bob]

I just recieved a product called sanding mop. I tried them at the St Louis MO show. I was at the CarveWright Booth and took a carving sample to the sanding booth. It did a real good job. I jest got them in the mail but haven't tried them yet. My CraveWright machine was shipped today. Let you know how they work in a few weeks. There website is
http://www.stockroomsupply.com/

[twehr]

I just recieved a product called sanding mop. I tried them at the St Louis MO show. I was at the CarveWright Booth and took a carving sample to the sanding booth. It did a real good job. I jest got them in the mail but haven't tried them yet. My CraveWright machine was shipped today. Let you know how they work in a few weeks. There website is
http://www.stockroomsupply.com/

I have been using the mop for awhile, now. Average 10x12 piece takes less than 3 minutes to sand, completely. AND does a better job than I ever could by hand.

These should be "standard issue" for every CCW owner.

(No, I am not associated with the company - wish I was, though. They have other cool products as well.)

[rmacke]

I have been using the mop for awhile, now. Average 10x12 piece takes less than 3 minutes to sand, completely. AND does a better job than I ever could by hand.

These should be "standard issue" for every CCW owner.

(No, I am not associated with the company - wish I was, though. They have other cool products as well.)

Could I ask what part number you use so I can order some ??
Thanks rmacke

[ChrisAlb]

Could I ask what part number you use so I can order some ??
Thanks rmacke

I'd like to know this as well Tim. I went to the site, looked at all the demo videos and "assumed" it would be the one on the Dremel? But it "looked" like it was pretty stiff and could easily grind away wood & fine details. Are you using the bigger mops and maybe with spacers like the setup on the drill press they show?

Thanks

[DocWheeler]

Chris,

Yes the little mop is aggressive, The bigger ones can be also if you don't move pretty steadily. I found that it is not all that convenient on my drillpress, I'm going to try a hand-drill next.

They seem to do a pretty good job in general, not quite as good as you would with files and the radial-bristle things on a dremel, but for the time it saves it may be good enough.

Just my experience/opinion.

[ChrisAlb]

Chris,

Yes the little mop is aggressive, The bigger ones can be also if you don't move pretty steadily. I found that it is not all that convenient on my drillpress, I'm going to try a hand-drill next.

They seem to do a pretty good job in general, not quite as good as you would with files and the radial-bristle things on a dremel, but for the time it saves it may be good enough.

Just my experience/opinion.

Hey Ken,

Thanks for the info. I've always used the Dremel with the wheels and have had great success so I'm not inclined to change. I don't mind the time it takes and actually, it doesn't take too much. I went over that entire 6'-6" facade in about an hour. Now that was to be painted and it was carved in poplar so it certainly didn't need a "stain" quality sanding. Just always looking for the "new & better" ways of doing things.

[castingman]

Guys, Woodcraft has something similar to the mop, It works good as well.
I think i will try 6" mop in 120,220 & 320, something about buying more tools , kid in a candy shop.
Michael

[twehr]

Stiffness:

Use the spacers to make a softer mop (see instructions with mop kit)
Follow directions for breaking in the mop (5 minutes of use on scrap wood)
Investigate their other products and you will find that you need to start thinking differently about sanding. Light pressure works better and prevents the sandpaper from clogging up (means it lasts longer and does a better job).

Stock Number:

There is none. Follow this link (http://www.stockroomsupply.com/prices/SM6chartc.php). I ordered the "Any 2 6'' Kits".
There is a 4" set as well, but you will ultimately be happier with the 6".
Follow their advice (see site) about what grits to use with soft/hard woods, etc.

Using a hand drill:

This works somewhat on a 4", but not likely to be adequate on the 6". You need 3000 to 4000 RPM on the 6", only 2500 or so on the 4".


IF you follow their directions and suggestions (sounds just like the CCW doesn't it?), you should get great, fast, beautiful results on all of your detailed carvings.

[hotpop]

I bought a 180 grit 4" sanding after reading one of DocWheeler recomendations.

I really love it. I would say it eliminates 90% or more of the sanding process and its fast too. It does not damage any details.

I use it with an 18v hand drill on high speed.

[twinpeaksenterprises, LLC]

On alot of my projects i use a handheld brass brush which someone had reccomended to me along time ago and it works well for a first cleanup to remove rough fuzz. I sometimes used a small file to get into borgers, certerline text, and other areas, also there are a few dremel attachments that work well, for the life of me cant think of what there called but there are these little like "sponge" attachments for the dremel that come in fine grits that have worked really well for me. Although kind of expensive being that they dont last very long before breaking up. Like $3.00 for a two pack but you might only sand like 5 small carvings.

[Gunner]

I like to use the dremel brass wheels for fine detail work. They last a little longer than the bristel wheels from Foredom but, are more expensive.

Gunner

[Tom75]

i saw this on tv no to long ago and thaught it would work good . it like hotpops idea but on steroids . it looks like an eletric tooth brush but a little bigger . called sonic scrubber pro detailer i got at walmart int the auto section for $9.95 heres a pic of it

[butch 4195]

try going to klingspors.com 4x1/2 med strip mopsanding

[TerryT]

I use these. I also bought extra belts in various grits. They work great.
Here is the link.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=274

[ncamp]

Terry,

Are you happy with those? I bought a set a couple of weeks ago, but have not had a chance to carve anything yet.

[Kenm810]

I’ve been using the Sanding Sticks for nearly ten years on my hand carved projects,
so when I bought my machine they fit right in with the brass wire wheels, sanding mops and 3m abrasive bristle brushes,
to fight off the fuzzes and repair the chip outs. Just like all tools they have their limitations,
so with time, the more you learn to use them, the better your results will become. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[Woodman]

I've been carving mostly maple and a rotory brass brush works really well for me. I use a lower speed on my foredom and it doesn't leave marks or tear up the carving to any degree I've seen so far. I also use a flame shaped ruby studded bit on tricky stuff. You can order/get these at WoodCraft and mine have lasted me for years. Double cut carbide burrs, while more expensive do work fairly well and leave a nice finish too but you have to be careful. Rifflers are curved files that come in different shapes and grades (rasp, file & smooth cut) and are nice to use too. Sitting around in my backyard on a nice day, taking my time and using a riffler to clean up & modify a carving is very pleasant for me if I've got the time to invest. As good as the CW is, there's still nothing better than hand detailing a project if it's gonna hang on my wall or a loved one's!

[TerryT]

Terry,

Are you happy with those? I bought a set a couple of weeks ago, but have not had a chance to carve anything yet.

They work very well. Of course they are not the only tool you need. They are great for small areas, ridges and tight spaces.

[fwharris]

Terry,
Thanks for this post. I have a 10% off card (July birthday) from woodcraft and have been thinking of what I could use it on. I have been just using small pieces of sandpaper folded over to get into those small spaces. Make the fingers a little cramped after a while. These should help..


I use these. I also bought extra belts in various grits. They work great.
Here is the link.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=274